Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 771
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I never even realised you could do this... might make this the default even at the risk of being banned from forum. Also, the way you stuck the dragon through the thumb hole... looked wrong. 

Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on whe

Is it odd I'm trying to read the newspaper?

Posted Images

Hop bits arrived! Very quickly I might add. 

 

Installed them however had a small mishap with fitting it all back together  :( the lil tab that holds the bbs in place must not had seated properly and thus was fired down the brand new barrel rather fast causing it to jam a BB in place. Left a small scratch at the end inside the barrel. 

 

So ordered new tab bitty and it will work!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I changed damaged parts by the zparts: http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_GBB_Hammers_and_Triggers_Z_Parts_CNC_Steel_Trigger_Set_for_WE_TA_2015_GBB_WE_Original_Part_14_17_20_25.htm

 

ZPS-WE-P90-003-1L.jpg

 

Very solide, very good finish, perfect fitting! Really good stuff, but still a little bit expensive.

 

Despite that, the trigger is still very very hard to push, and sometimes fire in full instead of semi. In addition, performances are still very very ######, it's disapointed :(

Edited by Vasriotaep
Link to post
Share on other sites

What do you mean by correcting the lenght? I tried to put something at the begining of the trigger bar to reduce the play but it's not the most significant improvement. I will disassemble the big flat part again to sand it a little... I hope it will be enough.

 

For the performance, I will try to find a 275mm barrel to check if it's the new barrel which is ugly... or a normal nozzle because mine is a low power one (300fps)

Link to post
Share on other sites

The trigger bar length is probably the first and most prevalent problem with the WE P90. Due to loose tolerances, the bar isn't always the same length. If it's too short the trigger bottoms out against the selector without letting go of the hammer. You then have to fight this wall (bending plastic essentially) until the hammer is eventually released. On mine (when new) I couldn't make the hammer drop at all. You have to either make a shoe/spacer between the trigger bar and trigger or bend the prongs of the trigger bar forward a bit to take up the slack (I had to do both). With that fixed the trigger in semi auto should break at about 7lbs, a lot stiffer than most GBBRs still but it actually coincides with the real P90/PS90s trigger weight.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I found that a piece of zip tie was perfect on my gun--placed loosely between the trigger and trigger bar.  I subsequently made a replacement out of some styrene model sprue.  Same result--the trigger bar needs to travel just a millimeter or 2 more than it does stock.

 

I recently revisited my P90 after it sat idle for a while.  All the mags leaked, some quite ferociously, and the nozzle cracked and then jammed in the bolt.  This is a result of the nozzle cracking at the small hole the pin passes through.  The home made pin walked out and jammed up in the bolt.  New nozzle on the way from KY Airsoft...

Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I found to be hokey about this gbb is that when bumped in the back hard enough the hammer will drop due to the mass of the trigger bar. Only thing that prevents it from firing in this event would be that the hammer would be caught by the auto sear since the bcg would also be bumped out of battery at that moment. This would require cocking the gun again to reactivate the trigger, in which case you would end up with a double feed. So I don't know about adding any more mass to the trigger bar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmm I just find this amazingly sad to pay so much for getting a decent gbbr :(

You don't have to buy that trigger bar. Plenty of DIY options for that IF done correctly.

As for decent, it's a WE and I'll remind you again that you paid well over the SRP for yours. Still, by far the most efficient GBBR in the market. Nothing even comes close:

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

New firing control group parts have almost no bearing on this problem. The main fault lies with the steel wire trigger bar being too short. When the trigger is bottomed out on semi mode the trigger bar doesn't push the trigger link thingy in the fcg pack far enough back to break the shot. It is only when you pull even harder beyond the design and start flexing material does it get pushed back far enough to trip the sear. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know, but on my side new parts didn't solve this problem. You seems to be on edge ^^

Dude. I'm a brony. It's gonna take a whole lot more than that to get me on the edge.

All I'm saying is that it appears this problem is beyond your capacity to address. Not all people have the same mechanical inclination and it might be best to have someone else fix this problem for you since a great deal of explaining, pictures and videos haven't really sunk in.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.