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Wooly_Booly

WE TA 2015, P90 review

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Just manually with machines? Or was it done from a 3D model?

I have got only one prototype and it was made manually. I have got only 2D CAD drawning. 3D cost more at begining stage.

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Only thing I could think of is the presence of a mag pushes against the gas chamber and somehow is enough to pinch the trigger bar causing it to fail to reset. I'd first check if the previous user removed the return spring on the transfer bar in the trigger pack in an effort to make trigger pull lighter. Then I'd check the trigger bar for irregularities.

Well all I could tell is that when the issue happens and I look down on the trigger bar, it won't reach the trigger itself, unless I switch to full-auto where the trigger travels longer or remove the magazine.

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This is where the QD hose attachment was attached.  Its a great idea as it keeps the gas mounts away from the ground, and doesn't crush the hose.

 

He threaded the attachment right against the screw that holds the expansion chamber together.  It actually bent the screw.  I tightened the attachment, and then milled it until the attachment did not interfere with the screw on the inside.

 

Currently that hose mount has been disabled by the way of a small rubber ball attached on the inside. 

post-7657-0-25599000-1487709980_thumb.jpg

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Well all I could tell is that when the issue happens and I look down on the trigger bar, it won't reach the trigger itself, unless I switch to full-auto where the trigger travels longer or remove the magazine.

 

I fixed it.

 

There are two trigger bars,  one is a piece of wire bent into a loop that you can see as you take the upper receiver down.  That is attached to the trigger shoe. 

 

The other trigger bar is attached tot the trigger pack, that releases the hammer.

 

As the magazine pushes down on the gas chamber, it pushes the 2nd trigger bar that is attached to the trigger pack.  You can either file down the gas chamber by 0.2mm or file down the trigger bar by 0.2mm. 

 

A relatively easy fix.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Also a few quick notes:

 

- Upper receiver is really loose on the lower receiver

 

- Seam lines on the lower receiver can be annoying if using without gloves.

 

- Trigger is heavy because the trigger bar is too short and you have to push back fully on semi-auto until trigger pushes against the safety.  Solution is either to either rebend the trigger to lengthen the bar to shoe, or as some people do, make a custom spacer to push the trigger bar sooner.  I did a mixture of both..

 

- Accuracy is fantastic at short ranges on stock barrel, and is even better after the hop rubber has been bored out and trigger job done.  A3 targets out to 50m is easy work.

 

- FPS today at 20*C was at 420-440fps on 0.25g on propane, And that's with a lightened flute valve spring.  Right now, auto dumps have no gas venting from the front as the lightened flute valve spring decreases the amount of wasted gas in each cycle.

 

- Rate of fire was at 1500rpm, I dropped this back down to 950rpm by clipping 3 rungs of each recoil spring.

 

- Its fun as it is, though it should really be heavier.  Will add weights to the front.

 

Since its a 2nd hand gun:

 

- Bolt stop hasn't broken yet, and no wear either and probably won't break given I have lightened the recoil springs

- Hammer pack haven't broken yet either.  Will wait till winter when zinc metals crystalise.

 

 

Overall happy with the gun, since its a project for RDS receiver conversion it probably won't be used on the field much, but it has potential to be a good field weapon. 

 

Its not as trouble free as the GHK Steyr AUG, but its as gas efficient and power level is higher than the GHK.  Waiting for winter to fully test this out.  

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To get this QD mount done properly you really need a mill.  Here is why:
 
 

P90 HPA Rig

 
The guy originally used a grinder to cut a 45 degree which is why it was still over protruding, he screwed the mount in AFTER he closed the 2 halves together, damaging the screw (meaning that I could not disassemble the gas chamber without stripping the screw).  That and it wasn't threaded in properly, the threads were stuffed.
 
For this to work you need the high temperature silicone gasket seal (grey stuff that doesn't flake of and get inside your barrel), a M10x1mm threading tool and a 9mm drill bit.

 

Another suggestion is to install the female QD joint there and using a male to male converter for the hose attachment.  This would give you the option of using HPA or gas with 2 minutes of unblocking the magazine gas duct.

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You know with how absolutely poor the magazines are I may well convert mine to HPA. Out of 8 I have 3 are leak free the rest wont hold gas for more than 5 seconds

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I am actually now strongly considering converting my P90 to HPA, the mags are just too awful and unreliable, plus it doesnt look like there are any uprated ones or uprated parts on the horizon. While I am usually firmly against HPA, the P90 is different due to the internal tank, means I never have to swap the line along with the mag and the hose would be pretty concealed. 

 

However I would not install the line connector at an angle, that does not seem like a good idea to me. 

 

Just trying to figure out how much I need to buy.

 

As for the mags what would have to be done to them to make them compatible? Or would it be better to remove/block the connecting nipple on the internal tank? 

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I've had really good luck with the mags although I only have 3. All have sprung leaks but has been mostly resolved with sealant (including the internal tank):

-140 to 143

-138 to 142

-132 to 143

O-ring 134 will still leak on me at times and I can't put sealant on that being a dynamic seal, but will only leak if I leave the mag empty of gas for a few days. When it does leak, I jam a rod almost the same size through 133 and wiggle it around, sometimes putting sideways pressure then pulling on the valve and I resolve the leak in a few seconds. That being said, dry propane is probably not the way to go as that can cause 134 to leak more often than it should. Ideally, an ever so slightly bigger o-ring should be used and of lower durometer so it has a better chance of sealing itself shut every time the valve is disconnected.

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I have one gas mag, no issues atm. It does have sealant in it.

 

But then again I have had good fortune with VFC MP5 mags also (had 7, none leaked).  Not so for WA based magazines though...

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Double check if it is indeed the moving valve because the brass part around it with an o-ring (non moving) can also be the source but will appear to leak like it's from the moving valve being so close to each other. Two of my mags had that o-ring nicked from being assembled in the factory and was sorted with sealant.

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I skirmished mine 2 weeks ago in 6 celsius, cold winds and with an Icepick valve equipped I could go full auto without any worries(and yes the gun already has very good cold resistance by default because of the way it was built). Range and accuarcy was very good with a ML hop-up and Angry gun inner barrel(old style). Unfortunately my bolt lock picked the best time to break(and the same way everyone else's).

 

The main thing that bothered me was the trigger pull on semi. By the end of the day my hand was really tired so I decided to get a Wii-tech trigger link. The best choice was the 1mm spacer as the 1.5mm one makes semi full-auto. However the trigger pull with it was still bad until I put some tape(3 times around it) on the the trigger bar. Now it's very good. I did get the trigger link stucking again but this time the problem was the spring included with the kit. It's way more weaker than the WE one. Stick to the latter.

 

As for magazines I have 6 of them and none of them leaks since I switched o-rings. The main culprit is usually the connecting valve's o-rings and on a few of my mags part 43 near the fill valve. I did find one concerning problem with the magazines. On my most used the mag(used for testing a lot) I noticed it can move slightly left-right while placed on the gun. If it moves to the left it will start leaking between it and the gun pushing it back to the right stops it. I think the cause is that the gun's connecting part damaged the magazine's connectiong ring allowing the mag the move a little. Hopefully it can be seen on the picture I took. Not sure what would be the best solution here.

 

2nr9qq.jpg

 

The damage enlarged the ring.

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From where the part is nicked, it looks like you may have put a little too much padding, making the mag align rearwards more.

Yep that is the problem. Thanks for the tip.

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The Wii-tech bolt catch seems really bad. I bought two. The first one exploded at chronoing and the second one mid-game. Does anyone have a long term experience with the RA-tech one?

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If my past experience with ratech parts are any indication those will "explode" as well. In any case a steel bolt stop wouldn't do anything good for the hop up unit. Make one out of nylon like renegade said. All it takes is a dremel tool... or even an exacto knife

Edited by CaptCalvin
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