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Wooly_Booly

WE TA 2015, P90 review

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Got mine today tough I could only dry fire so far, I really like it. I did notice that unless you pull the bolt back all the way then let it slam forward then the bolt won't go all the way forward thus no sealing.

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Nope Land Rover gearbox

 

on my phone, my spelling will suck

 

Thats a landie for ya...

 

I have one such mystical beast also, gives me much grief...  :(

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Tbh its only the second land rover related failure since ive owned it, the rest are user inflicted

 

New box isnt all bad, get heavy duty everything done with a higher ratio 5th gear and a new clutch. Unforseen expense but not an unwanted one!

 

What you got?

 

on my phone, my spelling will suck

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Freelander 2006 TD4. 

 

Was involved in a crash at some stage which resulted in slightly warped wheel hub assembly.  This meant that it wore bearings every 3000km.  As a result it have had 12 previous owners.

 

Wasn't till my 3rd bearing set, which I decided to replace the entire hub assembly (which was cheaper than replacing the press fit bearings) thus fixing the problem. 

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This is true.... yet an regular car would have been written off!

 

I hit a skip lorry in my 90 after a tyre blew out, only had the thing a few months. Bent the front axle but the steel steering gaurd took the brunt.

 

If i had been in my Fiesta it would have been written off and id probably have a few broken bones....

 

So to not sway toooo much....

 

Range and accuracy wise the P90 has some real potential, the hop is pretty solid and slinging .28s accurately a fair distance, matching my Kriss, not that the Kriss has astonishing range just real good accuracy.

 

While the current range/accuracy is fine for me at the mo I may buy a few bits see what can be done.

 

on my phone, my spelling will suck

Edited by bankz5152

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Saw a couple of things on here I would like to address.

 

To take the front end off the nozzle you need to drive out a teeny tiny little pin labeled 117 in the parts diagram. Almost impossible to spot unless you reference the diagram

 

The hard trigger pull some are experiencing in semi mode is due to the selector stopping the trigger right before the trigger can trip the sear. If you pull harder you are flexing the trigger past the stop allowing you to break the shot. A fraction of a millimeter makes all the difference. I can see how the trigger transfer bar might have slightly different lengths on different guns with the way they're bent to shape at the factory. 

 

The hammer pack in the WE gun is no where near real steel. None of the parts look anywhere near analogous to real steel. But still functions similarly by principle though very unsafe by modern firearm standards. Bumped the rear of the pack with my palm resulted in the primary sear disengaging. Will probably be prone to accidental discharge from shock to the weapon.

 

Definitely rear heavy in relation to the firing grip. The internal reservoir mechanism is a big heavy chunk of pot metal.

 

Boltarrow-10x10.pngis cast pot metal. They only finished that one area along the top of it with a machine.

 

Also how's that plastic "bolt stop" been working out for everybody?

Edited by CaptCalvin

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Bolt stops fine, probs done 10 mags or so. No problems, can't imagine it being an issue either (VFC MP5 uses a similar system, not seen any bolt stop issues with that).

 

I wouldnt say its no where near, but its as close as it needs to be. RS firearm internals translated into airsoft don't always work out well. Look at the VFC MP5, thats 95% the same as the RS but the materials where so poor it barely functioned (yes I know its been addressed since) where as the WE took the RS design and made it more airsoft friendly and that works brilliantly. 

 

While the bolt is cast pot metal it is very solid, also can't see this being an issue. Either way if it bothers you RA-Tech/Angry Gun will make a steel one soon enough. Though as with all WE's I have owned I shant be buying any 'upgrade' parts just replacing them with standard WE bits when and if the fail. 

 

Biggest test will be 10,000 rounds. For me I have found at around 10k WE's issues start to appear, usually easily solved but sometimes not. Time will tell. 

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Boltarrow-10x10.pngstops fine, probs done 10 mags or so. No problems, can't imagine it being an issue either (VFC MP5 uses a similar system, not seen any bolt stop issues with that).

 

I wouldnt say its no where near, but its as close as it needs to be. RS firearm internals translatedarrow-10x10.png into airsoft don't always work out well. Look at the VFC MP5, thats 95% the same as the RS but the materials where so poor it barely functioned (yes I know its been addressedarrow-10x10.png since) where as the WE took the RS design and made it more airsoft friendly and that works brilliantly. 

 

While the bolt is cast pot metal it is very solid, also can't see this being an issue. Either way if it bothers you RA-Tech/Angry Gun will make a steel one soonarrow-10x10.png enough. Though as with all WE's I have owned I shant be buying any 'upgrade'arrow-10x10.png parts just replacing them with standard WE bits when and if the fail. 

 

Biggest test will be 10,000 rounds. For me I have found at around 10k WE's issues start to appear, usually easily solved but sometimes not. Time will tell. 

Different story for me. At around the 5th mag the bolt yanked the arm so far up it split at the screw hole. I'm actually surprised it survived 10 mags for you. It's a pretty heavy bolt cycling at some pretty insane speeds. I just can't see a plastic part like that holding up to that kind of stress for too long. Had to fabricate myself one out of some scrap pot metal I had lying around. Not a hard piece to replicate but seriously.

 

About the trigger group for example with the WE M4 trigger group the design I'd say is pretty similar to RS just that the dimensions are different. With their P90 trigger pack however the design is completely original. Draws almost no inspiration from RS. Achieves the same functions in the end nonetheless just a lot less shock resistant.

 

And for the record I'm not too worried about the pot metal bolt. Don't have an issue with pot metal bolts in general except for on WA M4s or any bolt that uses a singlearrow-10x10.png sidelock plate to retain the nozzle. I do see a potential issue though. After the silicone bolt buffer (part 131) gets beat to a pulp (because mine is already in less than ideal shape) the bolt is going to start beating on part 121. Hope it'll last at least until spare/aftermarket parts come out.

Edited by CaptCalvin
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Different story for me. At around the 5th mag the bolt yanked the arm so far up it split at the screw hole. I'm actually surprised it survived 10 mags for you. It's a pretty heavy bolt cycling at some pretty insane speeds. I just can't see a plastic part like that holding up to that kind of stress for too long. Had to fabricate myself one out of some scrap pot metal I had lying around. Not a hard piece to replicate but seriously.

 

About the trigger group for example with the WE M4 trigger group the design I'd say is pretty similar to RS just that the dimensions are different. With their P90 trigger pack however the design is completely original. Draws almost no inspiration from RS. Achieves the same functions in the end nonetheless just a lot less shock resistant.

 

And for the record I'm not too worried about the pot metal bolt. Don't have an issue with pot metal bolts in general except for on WA M4s or any bolt that uses a singlearrow-10x10.png sidelock plate to retain the nozzle. I do see a potential issue though. After the silicone bolt buffer (part 131) gets beat to a pulp (because mine is already in less than ideal shape) the bolt is going to start beating on part 121. Hope it'll last at least until spare/aftermarket parts come out.

After a good look at mind. You are quite right, I am lucky....

 

That is a small, weak bit of plastic... I hope someone makes a solid version shortly.....

 

This is the bit -

 

2015-11-07%2023.48.25_zps20rqoquq.jpg

 

Could WE not have charged $15 more and had this part as steel? Its a classic, same thing happend with the M4 series with valve knocker...

 

It is a shame, so early that durability is knocked.

 

on my phone, my spelling will suck

Edited by bankz5152

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Yup that's the POS I'm talking about. When I get my new phone (because the one I have now broke) I'll take pictures of what happened to mine as well as pictures of the one I cooked up. It's a real shame that they put in a perfectly sound firing pin blocker mechanism for the magazine disconnect function but failed to hook that up to function as a last round disconnect as well.

Edited by CaptCalvin
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Maybe try urethane for a replacement buffer? I use the clear bumper pads with adhesive backs from Ace. The one I stuck in my AK works fantastic.

Never worked with urethane... might look into it. How hard is the material? Definitely don't want too much energy transferred into the polymer that the buffer is fastened into.

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Can't say for sure, around 60 durometer at a guess. Fairly rigid/bouncy as it gives rof a good 20% boost at the very least when used as a recoil buffer. If you need something to dampen the force rather than throw it back I guess sorbothane would be more up your alley.

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Screw it. Boosting the ROF even higher on a gun with already insane ROF? That's definitely up my alley. Sounds like a sh!t ton of fun. Will definitely give urethane a go when I get the chance. Thanks! Will keep sorbothane in mind as well for future reference.

Edited by CaptCalvin
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Sent KIC an email seeing how much they'll charge for a replacement bolt stop (just in case). Once I hear back I'll post the response in here. Never had a problem with KIC, they're always very helpful and to the point.

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