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Wooly_Booly

WE TA 2015, P90 review

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Can't say. I'm guessing bbs in the mechanism. He did have problems about misfeeds plus having bbs spill into the guts.

 

Edit:

Just to be clear about which parts broke.

12392062_10203963149797926_4368844833690

Edited by renegadecow
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Can't say. I'm guessing bbs in the mechanism. He did have problems about misfeeds plus having bbs spill into the guts.

 

Edit:

Just to be clear about which parts broke.

12392062_10203963149797926_4368844833690

 

I assume RA-TECH is on it, hahahaha

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They (RATech) posted some parts in 3D a few weeks back. Personally I'd rather see Hephaestus do them plus I think he's the only person so far whose had the disconnector and auto sear break so it may just be down to being a lemon or user error.

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They (RATech) posted some parts in 3D a few weeks back. Personally I'd rather see Hephaestus do them plus I think he's the only person so far whose had the disconnector and auto sear break so it may just be down to being a lemon or user error.

 

Does Heph even make parts for WE? They usually are GHK only, no?

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I have one of their AK FCG sets in mine and is vastly superior to RATech's in every way. Which isn't really saying much because the one by RATech is basically garbage.

 

You mean, RATECH is garbage? ;)

Edited by BioRage
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I have an issue where my mag won't feed the BBs because the protruding part on the top of the Hop-up unit doesn't push up the mag's lever(which keeps the BBs inside) enough.

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Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on when the guy said he lost semi auto when it broke because you'll loose all functionality of the gun if it did. Further more, the sear gets very little stress under normal operation and even the softest of Matchbox-grade pot metal should be good enough to withstand the forces it encounters so I'm now almost positive that debris (like a bb) had to have wedged itself in there to break it.

 

Now on to other things I've been tinkering with:

 

Trigger spacer - anything to pick up the slack between the trigger and transfer bar will work for correcting that ridiculously hard pull on some units. But using anything mushy like rubber tubes or wire insulation will be largely felt by the trigger finger as being spongy. So it's best (unless you like sponges) to use rigid materials like this shoe I made out of ABS.

IMG_7548.jpg

IMG_7550.jpg

 

Now, that same guy mentioned above also broke his auto sear or at least part of it. The auto sear only really does come into stress when it's being utilized for full auto. During semi auto the bolt carrier still hits it per usual, but not under the strain of being held against the hammer. It broke right at the corner of the top reinforced part which leads me to think it's just down to being a design flaw (or don't spam on full auto like it's GTA) instead of a material flaw or else it would have broken around the pin hole which has considerably less material. So, I just radiused said offensive corner.

 

before

IMG_7546.jpg

 

after

IMG_7547.jpg

*I deepened the radius a touch more after taking the pic as you can still see a faint bit of corner going on

Edited by renegadecow
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Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on when the guy said he lost semi auto when it broke because you'll loose all functionality of the gun if it did. Further more, the sear gets very little stress under normal operation and even the softest of Matchbox-grade pot metal should be good enough to withstand the forces it encounters so I'm now almost positive that debris (like a bb) had to have wedged itself in there to break it.

 

Now on to other things I've been tinkering with:

 

Trigger spacer - anything to pick up the slack between the trigger and transfer bar will work for correcting that ridiculously hard pull on some units. But using anything mushy like rubber tubes or wire insulation will be largely felt by the trigger finger as being spongy. So it's best (unless you like sponges) to use rigid materials like this shoe I made out of ABS.

IMG_7548.jpg

IMG_7550.jpg

 

Now, that same guy mentioned above also broke his auto sear or at least part of it. The auto sear only really does come into stress when it's being utilized for full auto. During semi auto the bolt carrier still hits it per usual, but not under the strain of being held against the hammer. It broke right at the corner of the top reinforced part which leads me to think it's just down to being a design flaw (or don't spam on full auto like it's GTA) instead of a material flaw or else it would have broken around the pin hole which has considerably less material. So, I just radiused said offensive corner.

 

before

IMG_7546.jpg

 

after

IMG_7547.jpg

*I deepened the radius a touch more after taking the pic as you can still see a faint bit of corner going on

 

Excellent work!

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Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on when the guy said he lost semi auto when it broke because you'll loose all functionality of the gun if it did. Further more, the sear gets very little stress under normal operation and even the softest of Matchbox-grade pot metal should be good enough to withstand the forces it encounters so I'm now almost positive that debris (like a bb) had to have wedged itself in there to break it.

 

Now on to other things I've been tinkering with:

 

Trigger spacer - anything to pick up the slack between the trigger and transfer bar will work for correcting that ridiculously hard pull on some units. But using anything mushy like rubber tubes or wire insulation will be largely felt by the trigger finger as being spongy. So it's best (unless you like sponges) to use rigid materials like this shoe I made out of ABS.

IMG_7548.jpg

IMG_7550.jpg

 

Now, that same guy mentioned above also broke his auto sear or at least part of it. The auto sear only really does come into stress when it's being utilized for full auto. During semi auto the bolt carrier still hits it per usual, but not under the strain of being held against the hammer. It broke right at the corner of the top reinforced part which leads me to think it's just down to being a design flaw (or don't spam on full auto like it's GTA) instead of a material flaw or else it would have broken around the pin hole which has considerably less material. So, I just radiused said offensive corner.

 

before

IMG_7546.jpg

 

after

IMG_7547.jpg

*I deepened the radius a touch more after taking the pic as you can still see a faint bit of corner going on

 

I think you will start to see requests for measurements or drawings...

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Looks like my little rubber buffer on the bolt catch experiment is paying off. I've done at least a couple dozen intentional bolt stops now, probably three dozen including the ones I've done without paying attention while watching YouTube. The catch itself is doing fine, but the left side edge which is supposed to keep it from bottoming out at the right ledge of the hop chamber looks to be getting chewed out, but is literally a minuscule 0.5mm thick ledge anyway. No cracking, but the 2mm thick buffer I put in has split (yes, that's how much force it takes and that's how bored I am doing bolt stops for no reason). Still works as a buffer right now, mind you, but if this keeps up it looks like a consumable mod done every month or so of regular use. Beats having a part completely broken at any rate and the steel one by RATech will no doubt knacker the hop chamber anyway.

 

Edit:

I just noticed that the bolt carrier doesn't come into full contact with the bolt stop which may explain why the rubber tore. So, it true Xzibit fashion, I put a buffer on my buffer.

 

torn rubber buffer

IMG_7558.jpg

 

with polycarbonate reinforcement

IMG_7560.jpg

Edited by renegadecow
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Couldn't edit above. Polycarbonate didn't work: added length blocks the bolt from coming into battery. I guess having to replace the plain rubber piece once it cracks isn't too bad.

Edited by renegadecow
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