DAS M4A1 BY GBLS Korea

[stryker20000]

Not the best estimate but between 100-120 ft. Used Apple Maps to guesstimate the distance. I live in Reno NV within the Sierra Mt and we had two weeks of snow dump on us, so trying to track a white bb in it is pretty hard. But I was using .25's. This Friday, my time, I am going to try and go back to the same spot and play with the hopup as I still want to fine adjust it better and sight in my replica scope. I'll also get an FPS on it the best I can. My chrono isn't the best but it works.

[Isamu]

So it's accurate at around 40 meters... pretty good for a stock gun and light ammo =) thanks for the info, can't ait for the mass produced version to show up 

[Crying Scum]

The only thing that bothers me, except the price and not being RS measurement, is the bolt itself. BrainExploder mentioned in his Youtube video during the initial test of the gun, they blew couple fuses, most likely the gun needs some break-in period. But that was easy fixed by greasing the bolt.  

Since this gun function like a gbbr, dirt and sand can get into the system and cause major friction or even jamming the gun up = blowing fuses. If you have intention to play it on sandy fields, you might need to prepare some extra fuses.

[stryker20000]

I'm used to the desert. 80% of our fields we play on, BLM and Forestry, are desert. That and I run GBBR's. It uses 30amp fuses too and got a pack of 5 for 3 bucks at my auto store. Just keep the bolt lubed like you said will do nicely.

[dur]

The only thing that bothers me, except the price and not being RS measurement, is the bolt itself. BrainExploder mentioned in his Youtube video during the initial test of the gun, they blew couple fuses, most likely the gun needs some break-in period. But that was easy fixed by greasing the bolt.  

 

Since this gun function like a gbbr, dirt and sand can get into the system and cause major friction or even jamming the gun up = blowing fuses. If you have intention to play it on sandy fields, you might need to prepare some extra fuses.

 

So the lower/upper are AEG spec'd?  I was hoping that it was just the grip/motor area that had the AEG dimensions...

 

I am a Systema PTW user but I am considering trying your system- one of the main appeals of the PTW for me is I can use the same real steel parts I would use on an actual AR15, even the grip (with some slight modification, of course).

 

GBLS, would you mind letting us know how close to real steel AR15 dimensions your product is?

 

E.g. can I use a real dust cover, trigger guard, magazine release, etc?  Can I fit the magazine internal parts into a real steel pmag shell like systema can?

[Isamu]

I think there was a list on compatible parts in their site and in this thread

[LordGBLS]

So the lower/upper are AEG spec'd?  I was hoping that it was just the grip/motor area that had the AEG dimensions...

 

I am a Systema PTW user but I am considering trying your system- one of the main appeals of the PTW for me is I can use the same real steel parts I would use on an actual AR15, even the grip (with some slight modification, of course).

 

GBLS, would you mind letting us know how close to real steel AR15 dimensions your product is?

 

E.g. can I use a real dust cover, trigger guard, magazine release, etc?  Can I fit the magazine internal parts into a real steel pmag shell like systema can?

 

We are in South Korea, so cannot get real steel parts to test. But plz check the things you mentioned;

 - Dust cover :  O  (with some slight modification)

 - Trigger guard : O (But it will be quite loosen and wobbled)

 - Magazine release : O (with some slight modification)

 - Real steel pmag : can not be sure

 - Grip : X

Almost parts are our own designed part. But if you know more, plz tell me the exact parts you want to know just like you told me the above parts.

[CaptCalvin]

Forward assist?

[Bastel]

Very cool gun. I want the mass produced Version.

 

May i ask how much Limited Edition guns Arne already sold?

[dur]

We are in South Korea, so cannot get real steel parts to test. But plz check the things you mentioned;

 - Dust cover :  O  (with some slight modification)

 - Trigger guard : O (But it will be quite loosen and wobbled)

 - Magazine release : O (with some slight modification)

 - Real steel pmag : can not be sure

 - Grip : X

Almost parts are our own designed part. But if you know more, plz tell me the exact parts you want to know just like you told me the above parts.

Thank you for your responsiveness.  Other things I'm interested in:

 

Barrel nut (that would mean I can use any real foregrip with proprietary barrel nut)

Buffer tube (I know you have a proprietary one, but I am just wondering about the castle nut area threads- I am more than happy to cut down real parts to fit- this is what I did with my personal systema)

Upper receiver (similar to above: I mill my own receivers from 7075 forged uppers for my PTW's)

Charging handle

End plate

 

Also wondering if the width of the lower is similar enough to real steel to use a redimag or real steel BAD lever for the bolt release

[TheFull9]

Re-threaded a DAS upper to RS spec yesterday:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BP0lAh_g8x-/

 

Lesson learnt - Be sure to disassemble the dust cover as the pin is longer than any on any other AR replica I've done this job on in the past (quite a few different brands).

[uscmCorps]

We noticed the same when mounting a Centurion Arms C4 rail. Dust cover pin is too long and had to be cut down a little with a Dremel.

[stryker20000]

Just wanted to do a quick update and will try and do an actual review in the review threads in the week if I can.

 

So I never got to plink with it on Friday, but did something better. Went to a local game. I only got about an hour and a half of playtime before I got too tired and people started leaving cause of the cold, but I'll throw in what I found with it using Valken .25's

 

So first off, range. It gets good range and I estimate it to still be about 110ft average using Apple/Google Maps. Not the best but it's an estimate and accuracy is still actually pretty good for a stock gun. It shot guns out sort to speak at the 100ft range but hitting a man sized target is still possible. Got a few kills that way.

 

Blowback is fun, and I would say it's on par with an KWA ERG. It's small, but still noticeable.

 

Bolt lock kept tripping me up as I am used to the AEG's going after the mag is empty. And I am used to hearing my gas guns distinctive "clunk" when the bolt locks back. This doesn't make a sound, but it locked back every mag successfully except one. More on that later. Releasing the bolt with a fresh mag, oh man. More satisfying than my GBBR.

 

Small cons for now that I will be contacting GBLS about.

 

My buffer tube came loose and even if I try and tighten the castle nut, it comes loose still. Tightening the buffer tube with the stock seems to fix it.

 

Hopup seems erratic. I am chopping it up to it breaking in still but when it's in a cool state, it works great. When used repeatedly it drops the bb's. Same goes for full auto. I can do bursts in the beginning, but it starts dropping. Might be something with the BCG.

 

Bolt carrier. I noticed that I get stable FPS of about 320, but when it warms up with use it drops to 280 at times and that's when the bb's drop. That's mainly in full auto, not single fire. Single shot I get around 300 stable if it drops.

 

I had one mag where it will not feed the last 8 bb's or so. I would need to smack it on my gear to un jam it. I played in the desert with mud so it's possible something got inside of it.

 

All in all with those minor problems this was a head turner as people where confused as to what I was doing. A small group could not wrap their heads around the idea of a GBBR and AEG having a baby together, but they will learn. I am loving this gun so far and can't wait to get back out again with it. That's all I got for meow.

[Isamu]

If it was very cold, i have been told that guns in the cold tend to shoot hot for the first shots since the lubricant in the piston gets thicker and improves air seal. as soon as the gun starts shooting repeatedly, it warms up and becomes less thick, loosing some air seal and thus, FPS.

 

I'm not a good tech, so I might be babbling nonsenses, but, I leave the theory there =)

 

Thanks for your first hand experience, gun seems to be fun and decently performing 

[stryker20000]

I thought about that. It was about 45 F when I was out. But with the lubricant it should have started out poor, then improved typically. I shot GBLS an email a few minutes ago, but they are observing Lunar New Years till Tuesday their time. It could just be the cold too, never know.

[DarkLite]

Might be down to the rubber they used for the piston o ring. I'd swap it out for a Viton one.

 

Additionally, all of those hopup issues are the same reasons why every single person I know who has run a WA GBB M4 has swapped out the *suitcasey* hopup unit for a Prime style one which uses AEG barrels and rubbers and has a much stronger adjustment arm system.

 

Which is why I expressed surprise that GBLS went with the WA hop-up unit, seeing as it is universally reviled as a terrible design with a very weak hop-up arm.

 

Had they tweaked the design of the nozzle a bit they could have used a WE M4 hop up unit and enjoyed a stronger hop-up arm and parts compatibility with TM GBB/VSR spec hop-up rubbers and barrels.

 

Not like I mentioned that beforehand in this thread, but hey.

[CaptCalvin]

They went with the WA probably because of how realistic the barrel and upper come together. Would of course like everything to work perfect for a gun over 2000 bucks but as things are now there are plenty of hopup units that are compatible from prime, ratech, iron airsoft, VFCarolyn etc. Also castle nut coming lose? Stake that endplate.

[jal3]

The hopup design might also be a necessity of having the receiver absorb the bolt carrier impact energy.

[stryker20000]

Additionally, all of those hopup issues are the same reasons why every single person I know who has run a WA GBB M4 has swapped out the *suitcasey* hopup unit for a Prime style one which uses AEG barrels and rubbers and has a much stronger adjustment arm system.

I read something like that in the past and started looking into it last night at work.  Yet I still didnt know what parts to get to use them.  I have used two Modify Hybrid barrels with a Maple Leaf bucking and I get amazing results out of it.  Was going to try and go that route with this if I can source the parts.  Im just glad you mentioned the Prime.  Going to start looking into it now.  But will hold off still too and see what GBLS says and see if they have any info.  The stock bucking and barrel are still really good and are almost on par with the parts I mentioned for my two AEG's.  I am just wondering if the BB drop is due to just the FPS drop all of a sudden, thats my theory.  To be fair I used it alot at times for suppression when it started dropping.  But we will see.  I fried both my lipo's that I got so I have to wait for two more to come in the mail to test anything out further.  Still love this gun. 

[DarkLite]

They went with the WA probably because of how realistic the barrel and upper come together. Would of course like everything to work perfect for a gun over 2000 bucks but as things are now there are plenty of hopup units that are compatible from prime, ratech, iron airsoft, VFCarolyn etc. Also castle nut coming lose? Stake that endplate.

 

The WE hop-up unit is also a GBB unit and is just as "realistic" as the WA. Potentially moreso, since you can literally put a real steel upper on a WE GBB M4, fill it with WE internals and off you go.

 

The hopup design might also be a necessity of having the receiver absorb the bolt carrier impact energy.

Again, that factor doesn't exclude the WE hop-up unit. 

 

I read something like that in the past and started looking into it last night at work.  Yet I still didnt know what parts to get to use them.  I have used two Modify Hybrid barrels with a Maple Leaf bucking and I get amazing results out of it.  Was going to try and go that route with this if I can source the parts.  Im just glad you mentioned the Prime.  Going to start looking into it now.  But will hold off still too and see what GBLS says and see if they have any info.  The stock bucking and barrel are still really good and are almost on par with the parts I mentioned for my two AEG's.  I am just wondering if the BB drop is due to just the FPS drop all of a sudden, thats my theory.  To be fair I used it alot at times for suppression when it started dropping.  But we will see.  I fried both my lipo's that I got so I have to wait for two more to come in the mail to test anything out further.  Still love this gun.

It's a tricky one to nail down - it could be a combination of all these factors. I'd replace the piston o ring first with a more thermally stable one, which should hopefully remove the issue of fluctuating FPS. If there's still a massive vertical group variation then you know it's also the hop-up unit.

[stryker20000]

I got a reply from DAS a few hours ago, but I cannot test it out since I broke both my lipos. First time using lipos in my 13 years of playing and I break them.... Any ways... They stated the hopup bucking has lubrication on it and is what's causing the fluctuation on FPS and lack of hopup. It is a possibility since I lubed the daylight out of the bolt, but used a wet lubricant that I use on my gas rifle. I need an alternative for this one though as the lube is practically gone on it. When I get new battery's and test it out I'll reply here.

[JCheeseright]

Grease not oil!

[Grimmese]

How do you broke your battery?

[stryker20000]

One was a brand new battery that started smoking on me on Sunday. Not while playing thankfully. Was at work in the garage toying with my rifle and seen it smoking. Scared me. Ripped it out of my battery bag and threw it on the floor waiting for it to go up into flames. Never did thankfully. The guy I got it from who sells stuff at local games says it has a lifetime warranty. Just waiting for him to say what to do next. My other one, brand new, fried when I was trying to convert it to mini deans from tamaya. Was cutting the wires and started cutting both red and black while one was still connected. Battery got warm and I think I heard a buzz sound, but I was doing it outside with a bunch of noise so I don't know if it's broken or what.

[blobface]

cutting the wires and started cutting both red and black

 

I generally find it safer to cut one wire first, connect it to the dean plug, solder and heatshrink it, then move on to the other wire once it's done, that way there's no chance of the two touching each other causing a short.