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DAS M4A1 BY GBLS Korea

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Thank you for your responsiveness.  Other things I'm interested in:

 

Barrel nut (that would mean I can use any real foregrip with proprietary barrel nut)

Buffer tube (I know you have a proprietary one, but I am just wondering about the castle nut area threads- I am more than happy to cut down real parts to fit- this is what I did with my personal systema)

Upper receiver (similar to above: I mill my own receivers from 7075 forged uppers for my PTW's)

Charging handle

End plate

 

Also wondering if the width of the lower is similar enough to real steel to use a redimag or real steel BAD lever for the bolt release

 

Sorry for the late reply;

 

Barrel nut:  O (with some slight modification)

Real fore grip:  You can install real RIS on our gun. If your real fore grip is for real RIS, it can be installed.

Buffer tube:  Castle nut area/thread is just the same as a real gun. It could be possible, but we cannot test because of my country regulation.

Upper receiver: X

Charging handle: O (with some slight modification)

End plate: O (with some slight modification)

Redi mag: O (with some slight modification)

Real steel BAD lever: We have gear box in the lower receiver, so you have to modify a lot to use this accessory. We do not recommend it.

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One was a brand new battery that started smoking on me on Sunday. Not while playing thankfully. Was at work in the garage toying with my rifle and seen it smoking. Scared me. Ripped it out of my battery bag and threw it on the floor waiting for it to go up into flames. Never did thankfully. The guy I got it from who sells stuff at local games says it has a lifetime warranty. Just waiting for him to say what to do next. My other one, brand new, fried when I was trying to convert it to mini deans from tamaya. Was cutting the wires and started cutting both red and black while one was still connected. Battery got warm and I think I heard a buzz sound, but I was doing it outside with a bunch of noise so I don't know if it's broken or what.

 

Oh, That was a close call! If you have a question or problem during using, feel free to email to me. We will help you.

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I was trying to convert it to mini deans from tamaya. Was cutting the wires and started cutting both red and black while one was still connected.

If you cut both cables at the same time with metallic scissors... It's not magic, you just shorted the cables :D

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I wonder if it's experiencing accuracy and velocity problems for the same reasons some DaytonaGuns do - the rapidity of the bolt/nozzle shoving the BB too far into the bucking, causing under-hop and velocity changes.

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I wonder if it's experiencing accuracy and velocity problems for the same reasons some DaytonaGuns do - the rapidity of the bolt/nozzle shoving the BB too far into the bucking, causing under-hop and velocity changes.

It's probably a phenomenon all self loading airsoft guns face to some degree. I notice with my gbb m4 with almost the same loading mechanism as this but with a higher cycling speed do tend to chamber bbs further into the hopup than it would if I hand cycled it. It didn't seem to affect accuracy or velocity too much though so I'm not too worried about it. I wouldn't think the effect would be much more pronounced on the GBLS DAS especially since it cycles slower, although I wouldn't know if the bolt travels much faster on the return stroke.

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Which is why the TM and WE GBB pistols/rifles tend to do better than other GBBs on consistency because they have the TM style GBB/VSR rubber which has a LOT of rubber before the actual hop-up mound.

 

This helps to seal against the nozzle AND slows the bb down when it's getting chambered so it doesn't get pushed past the hop-up mound.

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So, Stryker!

How does it perform on long term?

Sorry for the late reply, but I haven't been to a game for almost a month. Life just getting in the way. The only thing I can add for now is that I had to send it back to GBLS as some parts in the trigger group broke when the battery fried. They replaced about 7 or 8 parts and made the trigger pull lighter. So it is a lot more bearable. Other than that I will have to get back to every one. Just quit my job for another one, on vacation but stuck due to full flights and going to start a new job so I will have to see when I can skirmish again. I also purchased a ProWin conversion to use AEG barrels to test and a G&G bucking for just curiousity. That and it was only maybe 10 bucks shipped hehe. I'll try and report back as soon a I get more info cause I still want to break this bad boy in.

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wow, how can a battery damage the trigger unit? thats interesting

It keeps running through my head and dawned on me. And it may be something I did, not sure. But I would at times spam the trigger like a GBBR and may have caused it. Not sure.

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It keeps running through my head and dawned on me. And it may be something I did, not sure. But I would at times spam the trigger like a GBBR and may have caused it. Not sure.

 

Any system that suffers a catastrophic failure, which requires returning to the manufacturer for repair, from 'spamming the trigger' is not worth buying.

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recall%20pop2.jpg

 

 

Our 1st upgraded parts for limited edition are almost finished. If there are other users other than stryker20000 in here, plz contact me to get guideline on return. (sales@gbls.co.kr)

 

DAS is an organic system controlled mechanically. As for stryker20000's case, battery was fried during firing. That means gun was stopped before it completes 1-cycle fully. At a time like this, user must put the cycle back where it starts before connecting new battery. If system turns on in the middle of cycle, internal parts would be broken down. We, GBLS did not explain fully about it. We will post the video showing the remedy when the system is stopped during firing cycle. If user turns off the system during cycling in the unexpected situation (whether it is purposeful or not) and bolt carrier group is on the middle of its travel, user should releases bolt carrier group to take down the gun as the below steps; 1. Pull the charging handle back to the end. 2. Set the selector on semi, and pull the trigger to realign gears and release the bolt. 3. Separate the upper from the lower receiver, and check the cycle of gear box. 4. If it operates well, assemble the gun and use again. We will do our best to make and upload the video for it soon.

 

We will get back reviewers' guns, upgrade it, and send back again. If you watch their new video with our upgraded gun, would have an opportunity to check improved performance :)

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you have to send the whole gun or just the Lower assembly?

It was just the lower and The bolt carrier. got it back within a week. They already installed the new trigger, which I don't think I mentioned, did some sort of magic to the bolt's spring because the FPS appears more consistent and the pull is a lot better in the trigger. But still will want to take it to a game for further playing.

 

I will keep an eye out for the video LordGBLS in case Something else happens like that again. I also have a question that I want to post here in case any one else may have this question.

 

With the battery discharge rate, does it have to be 20c or can it be one that varies between different discharges? I have two batteries that I believe discharge between 15 and 35c and they appear to work fine with it. Just wanted to check. Still learning lipo batteries.

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Discharge rate is just the maximum, if you put a 70C battery in the motor will still only draw as many amps as it would from a 35C.

 

Only time you can go wrong is if the C rating is too low, you'll end up killing the battery of the motor wants more current than it can provide.

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