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Revolver Noob


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I know very little about airsoft revolvers and would like some wisdom from people who know lots more about them, what are all the available systems? Pros and cons of each? What are the "gamable" ones with good hops, one's that can be modded? What are the known mods, what kind of kits are out there and has anyone ever made steel kits etc? 

 

I've owned two ever, a TM pythom from over 15 years ago, and then perhaps 5 years ago I got a win-gun co2 s&w copy... so my experience is very limited. 

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In my opinion:

 

 

I really like the TMs cylinder system, it holds a whole heap of ammo (24 wow!) and is probably the fastest system to reload, best of all you don't have to fiddle around with shells.

The big problem is that they shoot at precisely gak-all FPS and have terrible hop rubbers with next to no upgrade potential, making them little more than a very close range last ditch gun.

 

 

Shell ejecting revolvers are a lot more fiddly to use, reloads take forever and good luck finding that tiny piece of metal you just dropped into the undergrowth!

In addition, the step between the shell and the barrel is going to cause inconsistency and inaccuracy, some are better than others though. My GH Webley is about as accurate as a politicians speech.

However, if you can get over only having six shots in between long reloads, they are commonly the most powerful and ranged revolvers, with some modification to the barrel/hop/shell seal, then you can get a fairly accurate gun.

 

 

Tanaka pegasus. These are the best, although not perfect, and usually the most expensive.

no shells to worry about, and usually holding around 18bbs, coupled with being able to load from a speedloader directly without shells makes them nearly as ammo ready as a TM.

With even the stock barrel/hop they are reasonably accurate and ranged, and can beat stock tm semi auto ranges and accuracy with some tinkering.

They do need a lot of maintenance, there are more seals than at an aquatic zoo.

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I dont know much myself but I had a few revolvers so I can say a little about them. I never used any of mine in skirmish so I cant say much about that. 

 

Marushin, I had a Constrictor and a S&W M36, I have now a Mateba 2006M, they use shells so you are limited to 5-6 shoots, depends on the model. Plastic but the heavy weight ones are really nice, heavy and cold to the touch. Gas lasts a long time. 

 

Tokyo Marui, I had a python that I rebuilt to take shells so again I was limited to 6 shots, doh 24 shoots in the cylinder when original. Personally I didn't like it, way to light (probably my own fault but to fit aftermarket wood grips I had to remove a lot of weights from the gun to make it fit) and plasticy for my taste, but its TM so a ton of aftermarket parts.

 

ASG Dan Wesson, I had both a 2" regular model and the 715, heavy, full metal that uses shells and Co2 so its shoots really hard, maybe to hot for some fields to. The 2" regular model did not have hop-up but the new 715 was the first from them with hop I think. 

 

KWC, I had a Colt Python, uses shells and green gas, super cheap, 24 shots, 4 bb's in each shell. I didn't like it at all, shoots really weak and so light and so much creaky plastic it felt like a toy.

 

Tanaka, I have a S&W M500ES, beautiful, heavy and well made, plastic made but doesn't feel like it, bb's and gas goes in the cylinder, takes everything from 6 to 24 bb's I think, average performance, Tanaka is mostly collectors pieces in my opinion. Also often really expensive.

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Tanaka: best all round for skirmishing (once you undo the restriction, see Heroshark's vid) and the best looking ones around so are highly collectible.

Tokyo Marui: best for CQB with the low power but high capacity and low cost.

Marushin: most realistic reloads and perfect for masochists/adrenaline junkies like myself while still being great shooters.

 

This of course is only a generalization. Not all Tanakas shoot that well, not all TMs are lame ducks, and not all Marushins are reliable (very picky when it comes to o-rings). I skirmish with just about all the revolvers I own as either primaries or secondaries and many of them have had some modifications done to make them shoot better.

 

Older Win Guns, KWC, UHC, HFC: don't even bother.

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ASG Dan Wesson, I had both a 2" regular model and the 715, heavy, full metal that uses shells and Co2 so its shoots really hard, maybe to hot for some fields to. The 2" regular model did not have hop-up but the new 715 was the first from them with hop I think. 

 

 

What's the word on the low power vs. full power models?

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Think most things have been said. There is very little in the way of aftermarket parts for any of the system's. And all even ones with good hops can suffer inaccuracy with cylinder alignment, more noticeable using double action. Best I've had are Tanaka's but they can vary performance wise out the box, some have been good others not so in terms of accuracy and consistency. If you want one to skirmish I'd go with a black finish heavy weight. You can get metal kits and TB barrels but I wouldn't bother. Some have adjustable hammer tension , adjustable hop, some with both and some both are just fixed. They can lack power but you can up it if you watch my expertly executed video guide in the "just hand guns" section.

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What's the word on the low power vs. full power models?

 

From what I heard, the high power ones like the one I had, shoot 400 fps and above, the low power one should be around 300 or lower for fields and countrys with fps restrictions. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

20160712-200353.jpg

 

Have had this gas can thing for many years, tried to sell it ages ago with no takers, I'm so glad I still have it now, this thing is perfect for charging the Tanaka revolver without any crazy gas spill that I get when I use the extension it comes with. 

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