Mafioso Hardballer Long Slide problems

[danr]

Just got my Mafioso Hardballer kit today. After building it, I'm running into an interesting issue.

 

As I rack the slide, the hammer doesn't always engage in the fully cocked position, causing it to drop partially and then it hangs up about halfway as the hammer interferes with the blowback unit.

 

I'm assuming it is something to do with how the hammer and sears are interacting. But I'm hesitant to start filing due to the price of the kit.

 

I'll probably end up using other hammer, sear, and blowback unit parts from my other 1911s and hi capas to see if i can isolate the problem part.

 

Sadly no pictures as I took it all apart, and haven't gotten around to putting it back together.

 

Anyone have any ideas based on my terrible and vague description?

 

Thanks.

 

Edit: pictures added.

 

What the hammer looks like when it is fully engaged

[renegadecow]

The sear and/or hammer may need some stoning to correct the profile or angle of engagement. You'll want it so the hammer engages the sear so that further pressure from the hammer spring will want to lock itself in more. If the angle is perfectly tangent or even less, pressure from the hammer spring can force the two to slip out of engagement with the hammer overriding the sear. If it's a matter of hammer height (sear too long) you should be seeing this problem all the time.

[danr]

Upon further review, my statement of "the hammer doesn't always engage in the fully cocked position" is a fallacy.

 

Now that I'm thinking about it, the only time that the slide doesn't hang on the hammer is after I've manually cocked the hammer fully. That's what I get for posting without thinking it through.

 

So, looks like I've got some hammer/sear interaction to sort out

[ED-SKaR]

As you say it's a worn or mismatched sear/hammer engagement. You can't file it to match, as it's already too loose, you'd need to tighten it slightly.

 

You may find that sanding the hammer 'bump' on the BBU so that it has a more angled surface, but even if this makes it cycle correctly, it will still rub the hammer against against the cylinder and that would damage it quite badly in short order.

Test a few combinations of hammers and sears that you have access to, but you may find that a new hammer and sear that are from the same company (or better yet a set) will be your best option.

[renegadecow]

Now that I'm thinking about it, the only time that the slide doesn't hang on the hammer is after I've manually cocked the hammer fully.

In that case, then the sear is too long. It means the point where the hammer engages the sear is well after the point where the hump on the BBU is physically pushing the hammer. You'll need to file the sear down and make sure you keep the angle of engagement correct. Also, how much you'll need to remove can be very small so take good care of measuring the part and file in increments. If you go overboard, the hammer will sit too high and again interfere with the BBU like it's doing now.

 

Edit:

Forgot to put into detail how to "measure" the sear.

With the hammer cocked back, its highest point should just be barely touching the start of the hump on the BBU. It should not be putting significant pressure on the nozzle but should still be pushed down by the hump at its apex.

[icolater]

Ok I built the stainless mafioso a few weeks ago, ran in to all sorts of hassle. Got it to work like a champ though. Ok I have a few questions for you. Can't the gun fire in semi cocked ? Does the grip safety engage the trigger bar when not active? Does the grip safety catch the hammer strut when fully engaged?

 

Ok to sort things out the easy way change the hammer and all its bits and bobs in the hammer housing including sear. and change the grip safety because you will notice at some stage that you can make the trigger move when the grip safety is not engaged and only stops trigger movement when the hammer is fully cocked. I could also stop the hammer from falling because the hammer strut valley at the back of the grip safety is to shallow and needs work. Also you might also be able to make the hammer drop in semi cocked.This because the semi cocked nub on the hammer is to small for proper engagement. I used Nova parts for hammer and grip safety and steel sear.

[danr]

Ok I built the stainless mafioso a few weeks ago, ran in to all sorts of hassle. Got it to work like a champ though. Ok I have a few questions for you. Can't the gun fire in semi cocked ? Does the grip safety engage the trigger bar when not active? Does the grip safety catch the hammer strut when fully engaged?

 

Ok to sort things out the easy way change the hammer and all its bits and bobs in the hammer housing including sear. and change the grip safety because you will notice at some stage that you can make the trigger move when the grip safety is not engaged and only stops trigger movement when the hammer is fully cocked. I could also stop the hammer from falling because the hammer strut valley at the back of the grip safety is to shallow and needs work. Also you might also be able to make the hammer drop in semi cocked.This because the semi cocked nub on the hammer is to small for proper engagement. I used Nova parts for hammer and grip safety and steel sear.

 

I'll get back to you on those questions.  As my previous posts indicate, I didn't fully engage my brain last night when I was messing about with it.

 

I did get a feeling that the trigger and grip safety did feel a bit strange, but figured it was a symptom of the other problem.  I'll need to investigate.

 

Hoping I won't have to change the hammer, grip safety, and sear, but I'd prefer to have a working replica. Before reading your post, I was planning on messing with the hammer/sear interaction as described by renegadecow, but now it seems that might not be sufficient.  We shall see.

 

Where did you get your Nova parts?  Looking for a hammer that replicates the one in the kit (1911A1 ish) but in silver.  So far I've only seen black.

 

Thanks everyone for the assist

[icolater]

I had them from ages ago, but I get my parts from Johnny at boomarms.

[danr]

Can't the gun fire in semi cocked ? Does the grip safety engage the trigger bar when not active? Does the grip safety catch the hammer strut when fully engaged?

Update:

The hammer drops from half cocked when you press the grip safety and pull the trigger

 

The trigger cannot be pulled if the grip safety is not pressed (unless this isn't what you meant with your second question)

 

I'm not sure what you mean about the grip safety and hammer strut. Manually cocking the hammer feels the same whether or not the grip safety is pressed.

 

Dependingon motivation, I may be taking a look at the hammer and sear this evening.

[icolater]

This is good news, you only have 1 of the problems I had, so you only need a new hammer and sear and you should be good.

[danr]

Did some filing of the top of the sear (just enough to remove the black surface coating) and got it to work.  Then I took it apart and did some cleaning and lubing, and after I put it back together the problem returned intermittently.  My theory is that there is a small amount of "slop" in the mechanism such that if the hammer and sear are tilted in just the perfect way, it won't catch, but in most cases the problem doesn't occur.

 

So, just a hair more filing (and ensuring I haven't accidentally filed an angle into the sear), and hopefully that should be sorted.

 

Another thing I noticed is that when the trigger is pulled and the hammer drops, it doesn't seem to have the same force as my other 1911s.  This is either a weak hammer spring or the grip safety/hammer strut interaction icolater was referring to.  More testing required (stronger hammer spring; testing without the grip safety installed).  My initial thought is weak hammer spring because the recoil spring seems pretty anemic too.

 

Hoping to be able to resolve this without buying the new hammer since I haven't seen a similarly shaped/colored one for sale.  We shall see.

 

Once again, thank you everyone for the assistance.

[icolater]

Engage the grip safety just enough so the hammer drops and try it again with the grip safety fully engaged. If you have a diferance in how the hammer falls then my guess is that it's the channel in the back of the grip safety where the hammer strut sits could need filing with a square needle file.

 

The hammer dropping in half cocked is a differant issue, it's the little nun on the side of the hammer that activates the piece at the right side of the hammer housing (can't rember the proper name for that part) that actives the seer. This nub should stop this part engaging the seer in half cocked position but is to small. I swapped the hammer housing parts with cnced steel parts but I'm sure Marui parts would be better then the supplied parts.

[icolater]

The disconnecter is the part I couldn't rember the name of sorry. The nub on the side of the hammer that is to small is meant to block the disconnecter from engaging the sear during half cocked position.

[icolater]

Maybe a diff disconnecter will solve this issue. Sorry for spelling mistakes etc, I'm at a wedding and half cut.

[icolater]

Also the firing pin disconnecter needs changing as the one supplied doesn't have the cut out for the little Spring big anuff for the spring to sit correctly and the spring rubs against the inside of the frame during function. Sorry for all the post.

[icolater]

Last thing im sorry, but the trigger should not be able to move when the grip safety is not engaged, even if the hammer is not cocked, ie when the hammer is in its dropped (battery) position. If it moves then the blocking nub on the inside of the grip safety is not interacting with the trigger bow correctly, because it is sitting 1 mm to high. This can be solved by filing the bit on the grip safety that hits the hammer housing. But it is much easier to get a new nova grips safety as it works perfectly and is a drop in fit.

 

Best of luck, its a tricky endeavour but should be worth it in the end!

[danr]

Looks like I am getting some rubbing of the grip safety and hammer strut.

 

Trigger does not move when the grip safety isn't engaged, no matter the state of the hammer.

 

Not yet tested swapping the disconnecter or the firing pin lock, but I'm pretty sure I've got some nice ones in the bits box.

 

But poking the firing pin lock while testing without the slide mounted, it appears to move freely with no sign of rubbing. But assuming I have the part that I think I do, I'll just swap it to make sure.

 

EDIT: swapping the disconnecter appears to have solved the hammer dropping on half cock issue.

 

EDIT PART II: THE EDITINGING: The hammer issue appears to be related to over travel of the trigger. When I pull the trigger just enough, everything works fine. But if I really crank on it, the hammer dropping problem occurs. Sadly the trigger bar interferes with the set screw designed to stop this, so yet another thing to modify.

 

Still haven't dealt with the grip safety rub yet.

[danr]

Too late to edit my previous post.

 

Swapped the disconnecter and firing pin block with UAC parts.

Filed the top of the sear.

Filed the hammer strut channel in the grip safety.

Added a spacer behind the trigger to stop over travel (in lieu of modifying the trigger bar since all my punches were too fat to drive the pin holding the trigger to the bar).

 

Looks like it is working properly now. It is now in a state that I'll bring it to the game this weekend and see if it'll run. (Since I seem to be adverse to actually testing things extensively before bringing them to a game and trial by proverbial and literal fire)

 

A bit more work than I expected from a kit, all made by the same company, that included all bits necessary to build a complete gun.

 

Copious thanks to icolater and renegadecow for their helpful and detailed suggestions.

[icolater]

No probs dude, it's a beautiful piece you have, mafioso is only new and I have been chating to him about future releases, all these little problems will be ironed out with new releases. Also you can pre order co2 cuts on mafioso gun for added bang!!

[danr]

Not the fairest field test yesterday at 60°F and rain, but I've still got some tuning to do.

 

As I suspected, my temporary trigger space (made of Duct tape) caused stickiness in the trigger, not allowing it to reset. Will need to build a more permanent, less ridiculous option. But at least I now know the appropriate length.

 

I think I've got a bit more filing on the grip safety to do. A bit of sluggishness on the hammer when gripping "in the heat of the moment".

 

Also, I swapped the piston head for a Nine Ball Dyna piston head, and I don't think that's giving me very good seal, especially in the low temperatures. Would not consistently blow the slide back and cock the hammer. Had a similar issue yesterday with a Hi Capa that I know has pretty bad piston seal, but has run magnificently in higher temps. My theory is that in lower temps and pressures the air seal is more crucial, and at higher temps the gas pressure is significant enough that some loss due to leaking is easily overcome by volume.

[k.a]

I butchered my TM series 70 chrome for safety's and slide catch etc, so can't comment on parts supplied by Mafioso, mine shots with a strong kick but the slide gets stuck half way and don't return to battery, I did filed the sear to interact with the hammer, came across this googleing and I think problem with mine is trigger over travel / ( the need to fill the arrow on the plastic soil control withholding itinerary, if not make up there will be a burst of guns! , check out the picture where the back of the trigger is filled in ) :

 

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.papagoarms.com.tw%2F(X(1)S(ylhr3mwh2bulmfzwsriysn4r))%2FCollection%2FDetail%2F3351

 

 

 

[DarkLite]

I've never had any sucess with the Nineball piston heads, I'm afraid. I find the PDI piston heads work best.

 

http://www.x-fire.org/tm_hicapa/e.pistonhead.html

 

The winter one is white and slightly thicker than the summer one, but will work well in both hot and cold. I always went for the winter ones as I didn't really see any benefit to using the standard one.

[Armourpiercing]

What is the base gun used here by the thread starte - is that a WE?

 

This will be the problem if so.

 

Also, dyna pistonheads are the pits, just the biggest garbage bag ever.

 

AP.

[danr]

There is no base gun. All Mafioso parts other than the ones I swapped.

[Armourpiercing]

I get that, but the hammer & safety, what are they?