renegadecow Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Nah. Just got the accessory pack with that 'tool less chuck' attachment. It seems bulky, but so is the 3000? I'm not planning on doing any engraving, so I think I am okay for now. Time will tell. They look similar, but the difference is significant when put side by side, more so when it's already in your hand. At any rate, you can always get the flex shaft later if needed. Some people with really big mitts may not even bother. But as for technical differences, the 4000 has a little more wattage (175 vs 130) but only delivers it when needed like when the tool slows down from cutting something heavy and it ramps up output to pick up the slack. This "pin" you mentioned, are you sure it's not a grub screw? because just about every birdcage muzzle device I know is held by a grub screw. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 This is the guy on Red Alliance's profile: http://www.red-alliance.net/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=32286 Anyone know anything about him? Is he trustworthy? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 He seems to have been selling there for quite some time now. If he hasn't been given the boot yet for fraudulent sales then I would say he's trustworthy enough. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 He seems to have been selling there for quite some time now. If he hasn't been given the boot yet for fraudulent sales then I would say he's trustworthy enough. Yeah, he just sent me some pretty good pictures too. Matches most of my specifications. I think I might go through with it and give him the 200$ USD he is asking for. Seems quite fair to me. Anyway, I was able to remove that *bramston pickle* orange tip, after a few hours of toiling. The orange flashhider was not only pinned in, but the pin was also drilled into the muzzle brake attachment threads. When I finally removed it (in many pieces), the threads were *fruitcage*ed beyond repair. The outer barrel is done. I'll need a new one, and the front sight post is battered into oblivion as well. I'll need a new one of those too. I contacted those dirty *Ubarflock* at Evike, and demanded a store credit or partial refund to alleviate my heartache. They better give me what I am asking for. Also, one of my Dremel cutting discs snapped off. I tried to remove the mandrel/shaft thing out of the keyless chuck, but nothing will budge. I pressed the release button on the top of the Dremel, and twisted. Nothing. Would not move whatsoever. What do I do?!! Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 You're demanding store credit for a gun you've ruined? Anyway, the keyless chuck still has flats for a spanner under the knurled part. And the red cutting discs really are fragile so make sure you wear eye protection around those. If you're still learning or cutting something heavy, use the fiber reinforced discs. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 You're demanding store credit for a gun you've ruined? Anyway, the keyless chuck still has flats for a spanner under the knurled part. And the red cutting discs really are fragile so make sure you wear eye protection around those. If you're still learning or cutting something heavy, use the fiber reinforced discs. I didn't really 'ruin' it though. It is their bloody fault that this happened! If the orange tip did not have a pin in it that *fruitcage*ed with the outer barrel threading, I would not need to go to such measures. If my actions caused it, so be it, but I am sure I was not at fault this time. And I am not talking about the red discs. One of my fibreglass discs snapped. Well, not really 'snapped,' but the locking groove thing broke and sent the disc flying off of the mandrel. So, wait. How do I get the chuck off of the mandrel shaft? It is locked tight. What do you mean by 'spanner?' Is this normal behaviour that it locked up? Why? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 You tried to take off the legally required orange flash hider with a Dremel and chewed out the threads in the process so yes, I'm afraid that's on you. Are you using the EZ Lock? Try the conventional screw on attachment. Spanner=wrench like the one you use to loosen the collet with. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 You tried to take off the legally required orange flash hider with a Dremel and chewed out the threads in the process so yes, I'm afraid that's on you. Are you using the EZ Lock? Try the conventional screw on attachment. Spanner=wrench like the one you use to loosen the collet with. It is not legally required. There are no laws that I am aware of that mandate the usage of an orange tip. The only reason why it is there is because all Airsoft guns are made outside of the US, and when they are imported, the orange tip is used to get it past the US customs asswipes, who make up their own rules. There is no law whatsoever that legally required it. Yes, US 'customs' will seize a gun without an orange tip, but legally, there is nothing saying they can. They just do it because they are tax-wasting dickwads who make up what is and isn't a regulation. The EZ lock is on, and whilst it has a wrench-tip on it, I have not been successful in loosening the chuck with it. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 The guy on Red Alliance is asking for the money via Western Union. He said Russian users often have issues with PayPal. Is this legit? I have heard of a lot of scamming happening on exchanges through Western Union. Link to post Share on other sites
Dimitri MdP Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Russians just don't use PayPal. At all. That's completely normal. It's still your choice, I'm not claiming for the legitimacy of the seller (or not) Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Yeah, he just sent me some pretty good pictures too. Matches most of my specifications. I think I might go through with it and give him the 200$ USD he is asking for. Seems quite fair to me. Anyway, I was able to remove that *bramston pickle* orange tip, after a few hours of toiling. The orange flashhider was not only pinned in, but the pin was also drilled into the muzzle brake attachment threads. When I finally removed it (in many pieces), the threads were *fruitcage*ed beyond repair. The outer barrel is done. I'll need a new one, and the front sight post is battered into oblivion as well. I'll need a new one of those too. I contacted those dirty *Ubarflock* at Evike, and demanded a store credit or partial refund to alleviate my heartache. They better give me what I am asking for. Also, one of my Dremel cutting discs snapped off. I tried to remove the mandrel/shaft thing out of the keyless chuck, but nothing will budge. I pressed the release button on the top of the Dremel, and twisted. Nothing. Would not move whatsoever. What do I do?!! Since you did the mods yourself you won't be able to ask for a refund. Thats why you have to be careful with whatever you do. I would not be asking for a refund. Can you take a picture of the issues? If the damage isn't bad many things can be restorable. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Since you did the mods yourself you won't be able to ask for a refund. Thats why you have to be careful with whatever you do. I would not be asking for a refund. Can you take a picture of the issues? If the damage isn't bad many things can be restorable. Why shouldn't I ask for a partial refund? I can at least try. What are they going to do? Tell me to *fruitcage* off? I've had many issues with Evike in the past. They really suck. I should have bought the gun from Airsoft Taiwan. I'd pay a bit more, but at least they wouldn't *fruitcage* up my gun. I don't think it mattered how I did it. The pin was lodged into the threads of the outer barrel! Even if I extracted it like a neurosurgeon, I think there would be a 50/50 chance of the threads getting *fruitcage*ed. It was that bad. Picture: Link to post Share on other sites
Dimitri MdP Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Well, I think it's 100% your responsibility and they should tell you to *fruitcage* off, as they probably will. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Well, I think it's 100% your responsibility and they should tell you to *fruitcage* off, as they probably will. Well, they shouldn't. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hold on, those are still perfectly serviceable threads! The gash below it shouldn't be a problem for muzzle devices if you clean up the edges a bit. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hold on, those are still perfectly serviceable threads! The gash below it shouldn't be a problem for muzzle devices if you clean up the edges a bit. Possibly. The muzzle brake only threads on until roughly half-way, and then it stops. Is there any Dremel bit that can assist in clearing all of the *suitcase* out of the threads? I ordered a new outer barrel and front sight post from KYAirsoft an hour or two ago. If I can clean the threads up and get them working again, I guess I'll just have a spare outer barrel lying around. Normally I wouldn't be that pleased, but it will definitely be useful sometime in the future. Spare parts always are... Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 A 14mm CCW die will clean that up in a hurry. If you take your time, so will a sharp knife or a steel muzzle device with ample grip area to force any burrs back down. I'm still puzzled with the problem you're having with your Dremel though. Are you unable to turn the chuck loose or is the collet/bit somehow stuck despite the chuck already being loose? Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 A 14mm CCW die will clean that up in a hurry. If you take your time, so will a sharp knife or a steel muzzle device with ample grip area to force any burrs back down. I'm still puzzled with the problem you're having with your Dremel though. Are you unable to turn the chuck loose or is the collet/bit somehow stuck despite the chuck already being loose? I just fixed the 'problem' with the chuck. It was just on too tight, and the included toolbox wrench was too small to grip it. I just used another wrench and twisted it right off. The 'problem' now is that the cutting disc mandrel shaft thing is basically broken because I cannot remove the disc's disattached mounting lock from it. The accessory kit I bought has a few more of the mandrels, luckily. Link to post Share on other sites
sigma3 Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Is this a troll thread? I'm starting to think so. Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Is this a troll thread? I'm starting to think so. Either that, or a new guy, without engineering knowhow and without a sense of value; throwing money at things without assessing how to solve a problem. Seriously Sturm, never in my 20 years in airsoft have I heard this much fuss: - The removal of orange tip is your responsibility, no one elses. Retailers have to ensure the flash hider is secure as it is their butt on the line if they don't so deal with it. - Never had a time I have munched a barrel because of removal of a plastic flash hider. If its a pin then dremel around the area to see if you can pull it out, or dremel behind the pin to pull it out, else drill the pin out. Either way, there will be some destruction. If it is a grub screw/allen screw, then unscrew it. - Those barrel threads are serviceable. Never in my time I have had to replace a barrel because threads are munched. Its a waste of money. If you have no use for a "munched" barrel I am sure lots of people will. - Cleaning threads: a knife, steel brush, or a threading die. Aesthetics: Sandpaper + Spray paint. - Grinding discs break all the time, but takes skill not to break them. They can be replaced by normally undoing a screw on the cutting attachment. Expect to wear and break a few dremel attachments. Finally: - - Airsoft is a hobby that you can spend thousands of dollars and get a lemon, or you can spend hundreds and get a gem. Nothing out of the box is exactly what you want so best if you get good at doing things yourself, or pay someone to do it for you. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I'm back!!! For those that do not know (although I think it has been fairly obvious due to my sudden absence), I had my account suspended for a week. The reason? I'm not entirely sure. All I will say is that another user was 'prudent' enough to PM me and insult and accuse me of things I am not. However, I, for whatever reason non withstanding, was punished for someone else's words. Regardless, I did 'save' the threads on the PMC's (second one I have) outer barrel. All is well now. I decided to purchase that AKM wood furniture set from that guy in Russia. After communicating with him for a while, I have evidence enough that he is a legit seller, and as such I will go through with the order. I am in the process of creating a Western Union account to pay for the set, but, considering Western Union's reputation (as a front for American espionage), amongst other things, I am still rather skittish about it. However, I will eventually go through with it. Speaking of the GHK wooden furniture, I actually did find a retailer that sells (or sold) spare furniture sets. This retailer (I will update with a link later) is located in Japan, and unfortunately does not accept international orders. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted February 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 It has been a while since I posted any updates, so here goes: I bought that Soviet AKM furniture set from the guy on Red Alliance. He eventually created a PayPal account so I could pay there instead of using Western Union. He said he is going to ship the stuff out tomorrow. Anyway, I have experimented a bit more with my second WE AK PMC (which also has an RA Tech trigger set). This one still has the original 'tacticool' *suitcase* going on (as I am waiting for the real Soviet furniture to arrive, which will probably be in a week or two), but I installed another W&S AKM selector, so that part is taken care of. Oddly enough, the bb chopping still occurs a bit. Not nearly as bad as with my (old) PMC and its *fruitcage*ed up auto sear (which I have since replaced as well), but I have observed it with one of my three magazines. Oddly enough, the other two magazines I have (the original ones) do not seem to be affected. The third magazine (came with the new PMC) not only misfeeds a lot (not all the time though) on full auto, but also dry fires, regardless to what mode the magazine is at. I do not know why this is. Although the misfeeding on full auto and subsequent bb chopping is still present (just with the third magazine), it is not occurring on the other magazines, and the auto sear is functioning as it should. In this case, I guess something is just wrong with the magazine? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 This is on a relatively new 7.62 mag? WE updated their mag design on those and added reinforcing ribs along the bb track. Unfortunately this causes a pinch point on some mags causing misfeed. See the WE review thread for more details. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturm Posted February 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 This is on a relatively new 7.62 mag? WE updated their mag design on those and added reinforcing ribs along the bb track. Unfortunately this causes a pinch point on some mags causing misfeed. See the WE review thread for more details. Yes, it is mostly restricted to the magazine that came with the second PMC (purchased around a month ago), so I guess it is safe to assume it is a newer-production mag. The other two magazines are from my first PMC (really sad that I have two PMCs, lol), and as this entire thread has detailed, they originally had massive full-auto misfeeding problems. They are gone now, probably because my new PMC has a functioning auto sear. However, the new magazine that came with the gun is misfeeding quite a bit. It might also misfeed on semi-auto, but I am not sure. It dry fires when it shouldn't as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Dimitri MdP Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 However, the new magazine that came with the gun is misfeeding quite a bit. It might also misfeed on semi-auto, but I am not sure. It dry fires when it shouldn't as well. Sounds like a magazine from the bad batch. Check this post http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/199502-we-aks-74un-first-impressions-pic-heavy/?p=2762477 Link to post Share on other sites
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