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Installation of Guarder 1911 Dummy Firing Pin Set


Sturm

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How do I install this bugger? I want to put it on my Inokatsu M1911A1, which does not have a dummy firing pin by default for whatever reason (just the standard TM-style retention plate, albeit in steel, with the hex screw holding the blowback housing in place).

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=634_639&products_id=22201

 

There is really no information available anywhere that tells how to go about installing the set. Why don't any of these manufacturers include instructions? Is it that difficult?

 

Anyway, the set comes with the dummy firing pin 'stud,' oring for the stud, screw, and the firing pin block/plate thing. Do I even need to use the plate? Can I just mount the stud and oring on the 'plate' that is already holding the blowback housing in place, and just swap the original hex screw with the screw included in the firing pin set?

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Replace plate.

Replace rear screw.

Put o-ring on firing pin.

Insert firing pin in hole of plate.

It doesn't come with instructions because it's already ridiculously simple.

*suitcase*.

 

I cannot reuse the default plate? I get kind of pissy about that stuff since the Guarder plate has a parkerised finish (appears to be anyway) and the Inokatsu plate is blued. Whatever. I guess it does not really matter.

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Replace plate.

Replace rear screw.

Put o-ring on firing pin.

Insert firing pin in hole of plate.

It doesn't come with instructions because it's already ridiculously simple.

The Guarder screw appears to be too short to actually screw into the back of the blowback housing. Wtf?!!

 

Is Inokatsu's design different? It looks the same as TM/KJW to me. Ugh...

 

https://imgur.com/a/kUW9C

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Apparently so. The Guarder kit is meant for TM after all and Ino uses KJW bits. You can just buy a longer countersunk screw at any rate. Looks like standard metric threads to me.

Well, yeah, I see what you mean. The Ino does not use any KJW donor parts (contrary to popular belief), but it does use certain KJW-spec parts, such as the nozzle.

 

Hmm. I'm wondering...do you think a piston head screw would be long enough? I have a UAC blowback housing lying around, and it has a screw for the included cylinder and built-in piston head.

 

Do you know the dimensions of the Guarder screw? It appears to be a similar size to the piston head screw, at least from memory. How important is the screw in securing the firing pin?

 

I don't really understand how it stays in. So, the screw holds the plate in, but what secures the dummy firing pin? Just pressure from the oring holding it into the hole in the plate? If I needed to get at the blowback housing, how would I remove the dummy firing pin set?

 

In theory, would the default Ino retention plate be able to be used with the screw (or piston head screw if extended), oring, and dummy firing pin piece?

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You'll have to modify the plate to have the same hole dimensions.

Well, that could be an option, but I probably would just leave it alone.

 

The real problem I am experiencing now is how to get a longer Phillips screw that is of the same basic dimensions as the Guarder one.

 

I don't know what part of the blowback housing is conflicting with the Guarder screw. Is if probably the blowback housing itself, or the piston unit? If it is the latter, I could likely find a standard TM piston and install my Airsoft Surgeon piston head on it, and hopefully be able to actually screw the firing pin set in.

 

However, honestly, the most 'simple' option I have is too just obtain a longer screw. I do not know what will work. I have no idea of the dimensions of the Guarder screw to begin with.

 

Are there any other manufacturers who produce 1911 dummy firing pins for TM/KJW? If so, if all else fails, I could look into one of those.

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How is that even a problem?

Go to hardware store.

Buy longer screw.

Done.

I can't just buy any standard countersunk screw though?!! I am thinking 3Mx10mm would be around what I would need, but still unsure.

 

Edit: This seems like a good size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018RSUVFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487497868&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=countersunk+screw+m3x16mm&dpPl=1&dpID=51GVgVMUhpL&ref=plSrch

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Bring the screw, ask at the hardware store and they will help you.. Just as RC told you. Or you can sit at home and try to find the right screw by randomly order bulks from eBay.

I really doubt it. The people at my nearby Home Depot are airhead high school dropouts, and they (generally) do not know what they are talking about. So, I think I am better off ordering some screws on Amazon. They are not too expensive anyways, and they come with a lot of them, which I can probably get a use of later down the line as well.

 

I am fairly confident that M3 x 16mm is the 'correct' size for the longer screw I am searching for. I want to double check though. How can I measure screws? Can someone tell me how precisely that works? I want to measure the 'shaft' length of the Guarder screw and the Ino hex screw. Is there an accurate method of doing this (besides taking a tape measure and hoping that I get it right and convert centimetres into millimetres?)?

 

I want to know that 'M3' means, and what 16mm (or whatever value) entails. Is M3 the size of the screw head, and is 16mm the length of the 'shaft,' or the entire screw? How can I measure these using conventional methods?

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I am fairly confident that M3 x 16mm is the 'correct' size for the longer screw I am searching for. I want to double check though. How can I measure screws? Can someone tell me how precisely that works? I want to measure the 'shaft' length of the Guarder screw and the Ino hex screw. Is there an accurate method of doing this (besides taking a tape measure and hoping that I get it right and convert centimetres into millimetres?)?

 

Ok. You need to either stop working on your own guns or stop trolling.
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Ok. You need to either stop working on your own guns or stop trolling.

Trolling? Wut?!

 

If I wanted to troll, I would do it in a completely different manner, and probably wouldn't do it on here. Can you please stop with the accusations?

 

I do not understand why so many people on this site are hostile towards me. I admit I am not that good at solving these kinds of problems, but I never posted anything on here with the intent of trolling. I am simply asking what I feel are genuinely legitimate questions. I am not trying to cause any issues or misunderstandings. All I want is a little help. Is that too much to ask?

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It's one or the other. If you're honestly not trolling then you legitimately lack the mechanical aptitude to accomplish such tasks especially if you weren't being sarcastic when you expressed the lack in confidence in converting cm to mm.

I can convert cm to mm (not manually, since I suck at math), but I can use a conversion tool online.

 

Look, do you know how I can measure these screw dimensions. What does 'M3' correspond to, and what does the mm part correspond to? Do you know? Can you tell me? That is all I have been asking for in the last couple of posts.

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EDIT: 

OK so it seems you just guesstimated the screw dimensions you actually need. Get yourself a pair of digital calipers that can do both metric and imperial measurements and measure both screws to find out what you need.

 

image_12598.jpg

 

Unfortunately I would have to agree with most here. You just seem pretty "lost" in general and struggling with most things. 

 

M3 is an industry standard which means "metric" (or "millimeter", same thing basically), and the "3" is for 3mm, as in the width of the screw base with thread cuts included.

 

In the past I have found this site very useful for information on how to identify and measure screws: https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Measuring/

 

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Identifying-Fasteners.aspx

 

And here you can see the ones that are M3 flat head Philips machine screws:

 

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_Phillips_flat_head_Stainless_steel_A-2_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx

 

So an M3 x 16 is a screw that has threads that are 3mm wide (the base of the screw) and is 16mm long (usually exluding the head lenght, depening on screw model).

 

For airsoft use you generally want to look for "machine" screws, they are straight in the base/threads (i.e. no point/taper like wood or drywall screws) and they have fine threads.

 

If you want to go one step further you could the an M3x0.75x16 or M3x0.5x16 for example (not sure of those actually exist), but the last number would be the thread pitch, i.e. the distance between the thread cuts. As you can see in the one I linked above it is 0.5mm thread pitch. So for a 16mm long screw, it would be 32 threads in it as they are 0.5mm apart :P

 

Usually the thread pitch just varies with the screw "M" size. For example and M3 machine screw has a "default" of 0.5mm thread pitch, where as an M5 has a "default" thread pitch of 0.8mm.

 

You can buy a tool called a "thread pitch guage" which is just a bunch of thin blade templates with teeth in them, corresponding to different thread pitches. So you can look at a screw and see which blade fits and then you know the pitch.

 

188-102.jpg

 

Best of luck to you sir, both with this particular screw and everything in general.

 

:| 

 

EDIT:

 

Right so the black screw in the IMgur pictures is an MC6S socket head M3 screw. MC6S is the standard for the socket head type machine screw. Google "MC6S screw" to verify. But if you use that I guess the included dummy firing pin "button" can't be used.

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EDIT: 

OK so it seems you just guesstimated the screw dimensions you actually need. Get yourself a pair of digital calipers that can do both metric and imperial measurements and measure both screws to find out what you need.

 

image_12598.jpg

 

Unfortunately I would have to agree with most here. You just seem pretty "lost" in general and struggling with most things. 

 

M3 is an industry standard which means "metric" (or "millimeter", same thing basically), and the "3" is for 3mm, as in the width of the screw base with thread cuts included.

 

In the past I have found this site very useful for information on how to identify and measure screws: https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Measuring/

 

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Identifying-Fasteners.aspx

 

And here you can see the ones that are M3 flat head Philips machine screws:

 

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_Phillips_flat_head_Stainless_steel_A-2_3mm_x_0.5mm.aspx

 

So an M3 x 16 is a screw that has threads that are 3mm wide (the base of the screw) and is 16mm long (usually exluding the head lenght, depening on screw model).

 

For airsoft use you generally want to look for "machine" screws, they are straight in the base/threads (i.e. no point/taper like wood or drywall screws) and they have fine threads.

 

If you want to go one step further you could the an M3x0.75x16 or M3x0.5x16 for example (not sure of those actually exist), but the last number would be the thread pitch, i.e. the distance between the thread cuts. As you can see in the one I linked above it is 0.5mm thread pitch. So for a 16mm long screw, it would be 32 threads in it as they are 0.5mm apart :P

 

Usually the thread pitch just varies with the screw "M" size. For example and M3 machine screw has a "default" of 0.5mm thread pitch, where as an M5 has a "default" thread pitch of 0.8mm.

 

You can buy a tool called a "thread pitch guage" which is just a bunch of thin blade templates with teeth in them, corresponding to different thread pitches. So you can look at a screw and see which blade fits and then you know the pitch.

 

188-102.jpg

 

Best of luck to you sir, both with this particular screw and everything in general.

Well, I appreciate the kind words, even if my sheer pessimism wants to think that you are just stunned by my lack of ability in doing anything correctly.

 

So, that site you linked is quite a useful resource. I printed some of the 'lay over' pages, and put both screws on their respective pages.

 

https://imgur.com/a/hwZF8

 

I drastically overestimated the size of both screws. Neither is anywhere near M3 x (insert length) x 0.5mm. The length of the Ino socket hex screw is around 15mm (I was actually not too far off in my guesstimate), whilst the length of the Guarder screw is 7mm. I just do not (yet) know the diameter. All that is definite at the moment is that the diameter is certainly not 3mm. If anything, it might be 1mm or less, and none of the site resources appear to go that far down.

 

I would get a set of digital calipers (or even regular 'old fashioned' calipers), but I have a bit of a 'problem' with buying things in this hobby and either breaking them or letting them collect dust in a corner somewhere. Digital calipers would most likely be a one-off thing at worst, or a once-a-decade use item at best.

 

I haven't been involved in this 'scene' for very long at all. I *fruitcage* a lot of stuff up, but doesn't everyone start somewhere? In my defence, I am actually a lot younger than most people on here would anticipate, if that is an excuse for anything (and maybe it isn't).

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Just walk into any DIY tool store with your gun (wearing a black trench coat and a hockey mask, of course), show them the gun and ask if they can point you in the right direction to the finding the right screw.

 

They will take you into the backroom, and call some 'people' that can help you from there.

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Right, so you can discard any of your findings from those print-outs right away since you have no reference of what a mm is supposed to be. How do you know your print out is a 1:1 scale match for mms? You don't without a reference and by default printers do not output 1:1 unless you tune them to the right settings and verify afterwards. Was the source file Letter format or A4 format? And did you print to the same type of paper as the original document is? etc...

 

You also measured the length of the socket head screw incorrectly despite me linking to information on how to do it...

 

Digital calipers are like $15 USD and are very useful for a lot of things.

 

I would guesstimate your age to about 12 all things considered which makes me wonder what you are doing with an INO 1911 in the first place...

 

:P

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