Special Ops Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but when I was attempting to install the Madbull Daniel Defense MK18 9.5 rails on my CYMA M4 AEG, I kept having clearance issues with the screws that screw into the rails themselves. The screw don't have enough clearance do to the holes being to close to the side of the upper receiver. My only option left is to attempt to install the rail system on my G&G M4 Carbine Light combat machine or buy another AEG and take another chance with it no fitting which I really prefer not to do. Does anyone have any idea's or have experienced this problem on the CYMA M4 AEG? Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Pictures? Link to post Share on other sites
Special Ops Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Pictures? Sure can. Note in the pictures, I placed the screw in there to better show how there's no clearance to install the rail. The screws on the bottom can only come in sideways due to the upper receiver. Link to post Share on other sites
Yoroiden Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 If I remember correctly, only the upper four screws go in from the back like the one shown in your pictures. The bottom two, including the one in your pics, go in from the front of the mount. Like this: Link to post Share on other sites
Special Ops Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 If I remember correctly, only the upper four screws go in from the back like the one shown in your pictures. The bottom two, including the one in your pics, go in from the front of the mount. Like this: Dude, I so realized my mistake when watching this video on You Tube, prior to coming back here. I did notice that when I was tightening the barrel nut with an M16 wrench, no matter how tight the barrel nut was, the back plate would have some forward play in it, unless I folded up some thin cardboard and placed that between the back plate and the barrel nut. Is this just something that I will have to do to mod the parts in order to get a nice fit? Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Dude, I so realized my mistake when watching this video on You Tube, prior to coming back here. I did notice that when I was tightening the barrel nut with an M16 wrench, no matter how tight the barrel nut was, the back plate would have some forward play in it, unless I folded up some thin cardboard and placed that between the back plate and the barrel nut. Is this just something that I will have to do to mod the parts in order to get a nice fit? You'll be wanting barrel shims. As with the real steel you'll have to get some of these and put them on your barrel before tightening the nut down. Link to post Share on other sites
Special Ops Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 You'll be wanting barrel shims. As with the real steel you'll have to get some of these and put them on your barrel before tightening the nut down. Cool. I'm going to try to mod everything Tuesday morning. If all goes well, I'll post pictures. I'll just be installing the rails, 10.3 outer barrel, and fake gas block with gas tube. This is a project gun that I would like to finish sometime this upcoming summer. I still need to upgrade the gearbox, rewire it to the stock, replace the stock, trigger guard, pistol grip, and install the proper compensator for MK18 SOPMOD Block II builds. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
aac Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Make sure that the bolt up plate still hase some clearance after the barrel nut is thightened , to be sure the barrel is thightened. The RIS is thightened against the barrel nut with the bolt up plate. Link to post Share on other sites
Special Ops Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Make sure that the bolt up plate still hase some clearance after the barrel nut is thightened , to be sure the barrel is thightened. The RIS is thightened against the barrel nut with the bolt up plate. I will do that!. Thanks for the tip. Link to post Share on other sites
aac Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 I will do that!. Thanks for the tip. Welcome, and post some pic's f your project plz Link to post Share on other sites
Special Ops Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 I would like to say thank you to all those who have helped me so far. Here she is: I don't have the shims, so I improvised temporarily by taking two pieces of thin cardboard, folding them and placing one each between the top and bottom, where the front of the upper receiver ends and behind the MK18 rail plate. On my CYMA AEG, the problem was that there was to much play behind the plate and it needed to come forward. Perhaps it's just me, but I've noticed that from my perspective, the front of the rails seems to slightly bend upwards. This isn't due to how it's mounted as that's fine, It's either that it happened at the factory, or it's just me. Most people probably won't notice it. On to the Madbull Daniel Defense 10.3 outer barrel. When I originally told everyone on here that I was going to buy it, they advised me about the possibility of barrel wobble, due to it not being on piece. So I went into it knowing that it would be something that I would have to deal with, however it was the most authentic outer barrel in terms of length and design. I was hoping that they would of had the steel one as it would have been an easy fix since all I would have to do is cold weld or hot weld the barrel together to form one piece, but they only had the aluminum outer barrel. My outer barrel has some side to side wobble, only when you touch it. When I place the inner barrel inside the outer barrel, the wobble is almost non-existent. So I'm thinking that some plumbers tape wrapped around the inner barrel will remove any outer barrel wobble and should help improve accuracy as there will be less inner barrel movement from the gearbox when firing. I'm hoping that I can find some sort of cold weld, adhesive, or compound that I can place on the outer barrel so that when it dries, it will form one piece of aluminum. So this is still a work in progress. I still have to work on the gearbox and lower the FPS, wire the gearbox to the rear and install a moseft and make it LiPo ready, replace the motor with a faster one for instant trigger response, add a LMT style SOPMOD stock, then replace the pistol grip. I'm also going to replace the entire hop up unit and inner barrel. Since special forces here in the States, can and do use whatever accessory they want on their weapons, I'll probably go with either a Tango Down grip, or a Magpul grip. Link to post Share on other sites
aac Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 If i understand you correctly, i think the rail & barrel aren't properly installed. If the barrel has stil wobble , the the nut is most likely pressing against the bolt up late instead of the barrels rim you need to check if you can tighten the barrel without BU plate & rail before. you don't need cardboard shims between BU plate & receiver. maybe that's the reason the rail tend to bent upwards ? Check this schematical draft of me, to see how it should be For faster trigger response you need a High Torque motor Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 That's it! (save that the lower bolt goes in from the front). Link to post Share on other sites
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