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V2 gearbox internals


minisam92

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Basically my m4 gear box has poo'd it's self and split in to 6 pieces I've always just chucked a standard one back in and carried on how ever would like to have a go at building a bit of a custom one.

 

So far I've got

King arms gear box shell , can any one tell me what size bearings I need ?

Not sure on gears (can any one recommend some)

Shs hi torque motor

M105 spring

Shs alloy cylinder/nozzle / piston

Any other worth while mods ?

Was going to get a mofset fitted (due to wanting to run lipos)but not really clued up on them

Any advice appericated

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If you purchase a new shell it'll say the size of the bearings.

SHS 16:1 gears will do nicely. You can go 13:1 with the SHS high torque for trigger response and higher RoF, and it'll work nicely on 7.4v batts.

SHS 14 metal teeth piston, alu if possible or POM. Lightened.

Ventilated cylinder matching your inner barrel's length. Cylinder head with double o-rings.

Nozzle with o-ring.

I'd also install a mosfet unit with active brake. Jefftron has some nice quality/price units with cabling included.

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A mate who's a bit more experienced is going to build it , where would I be best buying the Shs 13.1 gears from ?

Also if I buy a mofset with the wiring kit do I need to buy trigger contacts ?

If you are willing to purchase outside the UK, Gunfire, Safara, Taiwangun and other dealers use to have them.

 

About the MOSFET, no, you don't need a new trigger.

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If you are willing to purchase outside the UK, Gunfire, Safara, Taiwangun and other dealers use to have them.

 

About the MOSFET, no, you don't need a new trigger.

Cheers mate will have a look

I've got a micrometer if that's what there called some where haha

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I've got a micrometer if that's what there called some where haha

 

Digital Caliper Gauge

There are 2 types knocking about on fleabay

Plastic/Carbon Fiber for a few quid - measures in 0.1mm

Metal one about £6+ measures in finer 0.01mm - much more accurate for shimming etc....

 

One thing to watch out for on certain boxes that are reinforced - they often have a ridge on one half of the casing

This is fine for std 18:1 or slightly faster 16:1 gears

But - when using higher speed gears this ridge impedes the box closing, catching on the spur's sector teeth

A little bit of mild dremel work sorts this out - just a mild bit of grinding or you can go really nutz if no dremel

(I'd go for a mild careful method if possible....)

 

https://youtu.be/AE29OdDaRHg

 

https://youtu.be/6ZMLjBSNFu4

 

yeah I'd go the mild careful way than take a sledgehammer to crack a walnut

but if don't have a dremel for intricate work then the large grinder will work I guess

 

Or just use 16:1 gears if there is a ridge at the back and you can't be bothered to mod the box

Some boxes you can chuck in high speed gears but reckon 40% v2's have this ridge or reinforced arc on them

Check your box, decide on the work involved & then purchase the gears

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But a set of Mitutoyos if you can, just their basic model is all you need. They're a few bucks more, but you'll still have them when you're 65, and they'll still be quality.

 

http://www.mitutoyo.co.uk/small-tool-instruments-and-data-management/calipers/530-104

 

They have some super mac daddy versions if you're flush with cash, but I've done plenty of precision work with those basic ones.

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