Horsem4n Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 Do up the vent holes in mlok spec maybe? No rails, but gives you the option to easily add one in case you want to lash a torch to it. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 For sling mounts, you could drill and tap a hole into the bottom of the front sight block for a QD mount socket. Link to post Share on other sites
aac Posted June 10, 2017 Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 Awesome job Brigg But what i dont understand, if you enter into commitment to develop and build a complete replica. Why you use an ordinary Colt A2 grip ??? Man, develop and machine a pistol grip worthy to your skils, and original as your design is ! Further i would suggest ; Make a integrated suppressor for it, M-lock holes , a custom made,adjustable foregrip, and a Honeybadger style, sliding stock Keep up the good work, watching you Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2017 All of those things are things I hate, hahaha. Aside from maybe the sliding stock. I like old school guns, before everything was an AR15 with increasingly complex rails and fore ends. And I still think that A1 and A2 pistol grips work better then anything else Ive seen. I have small hands. THough, As I said in the beginning, I am probably going to make a wooden grip for it. Wood am the best. The most I might do as far as "tactical" stuff, and im not even sure yet, is to put a section of rail under the barrel in the front. And I would probably just buy a premade rail section and screw it on. theres no need to machine something I can buy for $8. Link to post Share on other sites
aac Posted June 11, 2017 Report Share Posted June 11, 2017 Old school, retro guns is an original reference cadre to inspire your designs And then wood wil be excellent for custom made grips. And instead of a frontrail why not making a wooden frontgrip (as on the Tommygun ?) I am very curious how this project will further evolve Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 Small-ish update, rear sight is finished now and the hopup chamber, feed ramp and inner barrel are installed. Unfortunately Im also out of green gas to test it. go figure. So while im waiting for some to be delivered, im going to try to finish the rest of the externals. Next up is either the stock, or the wooden grip. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted June 15, 2017 Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 What about a wooden pistol grip? Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 15, 2017 Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 ............... and a wooden handguard/sleeve thingy? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 15, 2017 Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 I'd even go so far as to suggest a wooden stock, Uzi style. Link to post Share on other sites
aac Posted June 15, 2017 Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 ............... and a wooden handguard/sleeve thingy? I'd even go so far as to suggest a wooden stock, Uzi style. What about a wooden pistol grip? Good plans Link to post Share on other sites
Corbeau Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 All of those things are things I hate, hahaha. Aside from maybe the sliding stock. I like old school guns, before everything was an AR15 with increasingly complex rails and fore ends. And I still think that A1 and A2 pistol grips work better then anything else Ive seen. I have small hands. THough, As I said in the beginning, I am probably going to make a wooden grip for it. Wood am the best. The most I might do as far as "tactical" stuff, and im not even sure yet, is to put a section of rail under the barrel in the front. And I would probably just buy a premade rail section and screw it on. theres no need to machine something I can buy for $8. A man after my own heart. Great looking SMG here! Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 ok so, update with no pics because the look hasnt changed at all. buuut I finally got some green gas, and after some work on the internals, it now shoots quite well in semi auto (No auto cause the linkage arm broke a couple weeks back.) The only issue it has is gas consumption. It cant quite get through a magazine yet. though im not sure that it ever will, since the hammer system probably requires a lot more energy to cycle then the mac11's bolt does. I can live with thqt though, being the first GBB ive designed from the ground up. Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 well I guess that's the burden of WE AR trigger module... the hammer is so short that the leverage is bad Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Heres a short test fire video. bolt didnt stop at the last shot cause its an older mac11 mag that has the "stepped" follower. Ill fix that later. Link to post Share on other sites
firefex Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Well i am impressed! looks very nice. Verstuurd vanaf mijn E5823 met Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Nice. What about the GHK M4 FCG? Easier to work with no spring striker. Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Yeah, maybe. But I had a couple spare WE FCGs lying around. didnt have to spend money on anything. Plus the whole FCG sits in its own box which makes it really easy to just take out the whole thing when you have to fit all the other parts and stuff. THat FCG was probably in and out a hundred times so far. I dont even want to think about installing the springs and stuff each time. ugh. Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Any possibility of weakening the hammer spring or installing a weaker hammer spring? I don't think the KWA pistol valve is as hard to depress as a WE rifle valve. Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 yeah I used one of those weaker hammer springs that RATech was selling with their high efficiency valves a while back. I don think theres any weaker ones I can find then that. But, as of the last test I got like 40- something shots before it got a jam so I think it might be able to get through the mag now on semi at least. I still have to fi the auto function though. Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I cut one leg of trigger and hammer springs off in my WE SCARs, this will lighten trigger pull and hammer strength quite a bit, but not WA/GHK kind of light. Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Another video, auto this time and with the partially complete stock. I couldnt find BBs that would feed in the mac11 mag. the whole stack just kept binding up. Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Damn, that's so frikken cool. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Find out if they're binding as they stack or at the top edge where they transition to single file. If the latter usually it's a simple debur of the joint between feed lips and mag body. Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted June 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 unfortunately its at the bottom where they are binding. I shouldnt be surprised though, theyre cheap .25 bios. I shouldve expected that to be a problem. IM gonna try to slow down the rof too. Anyone know where I can get random long springs to use as return springs? I get assortments of small springs on ebay but the longest ones are only about two inches long. not nearly enough for something like this. Ive been using springs out of my junk drawer but Im pretty much out of them by now. For this, in the meantime, Im going to try to work with the couple of springs I have left and see what I can do. Major problem here is that since it uses a WE fcg, the bolt will get stuck behind the hammer if it moves too far back. the max it can move is about 2 inches. any further and it'll lock. Thankfully I made this one really easy to remove the lower, a single pin and a rear shelf hold the lower on so its easy to fix issues like that. What I need is just like, a bag, filled with random springs anywhere from 4 to 8 inches long.especially if I want to try making something like a gbb rifle where the bolt travel would be much longer then this design. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 unfortunately its at the bottom where they are binding. I shouldnt be surprised though, theyre cheap .25 bios. I shouldve expected that to be a problem. IM gonna try to slow down the rof too. Anyone know where I can get random long springs to use as return springs? I get assortments of small springs on ebay but the longest ones are only about two inches long. not nearly enough for something like this. Ive been using springs out of my junk drawer but Im pretty much out of them by now. For this, in the meantime, Im going to try to work with the couple of springs I have left and see what I can do. Major problem here is that since it uses a WE fcg, the bolt will get stuck behind the hammer if it moves too far back. the max it can move is about 2 inches. any further and it'll lock. Thankfully I made this one really easy to remove the lower, a single pin and a rear shelf hold the lower on so its easy to fix issues like that. What I need is just like, a bag, filled with random springs anywhere from 4 to 8 inches long.especially if I want to try making something like a gbb rifle where the bolt travel would be much longer then this design. You could always try winding your own springs if you have a lathe. As for the bolt travelling too far to the rear - polyurethane buffer? Link to post Share on other sites
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