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K-SMG1 project build thread


Brigg

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Awesome job Brigg  :)

 

But what i dont understand,  if you enter into commitment to develop and build a complete replica.

Why you use an ordinary Colt A2 grip ???

Man, develop and machine a pistol grip worthy to your skils, and original as your design is !

 

Further i would suggest ;

 

Make a integrated suppressor for it, M-lock holes , a custom made,adjustable  foregrip, and a Honeybadger style, sliding  stock

 

Keep up  the good work, watching you  :gun:  

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All of those things are things I hate, hahaha. Aside from maybe the sliding stock. I like old school guns, before everything was an AR15 with increasingly complex rails and fore ends. And I still think that A1 and A2 pistol grips work better then anything else Ive seen. I have small hands. THough, As I said in the beginning, I am probably going to make a wooden grip for it. Wood am the best.

 

The most I might do as far as "tactical" stuff, and im not even sure yet, is to put a section of rail under the barrel in the front. And I would probably just buy a premade rail section and screw it on. theres no need to machine something I can buy for $8.

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Old school, retro guns is an original  reference cadre to inspire your designs

And then wood wil be excellent  for custom made grips.

 

And instead of a frontrail why not making a wooden frontgrip (as on the Tommygun ?)

 

I am very curious how this project will further evolve  :)

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Small-ish update, rear sight is finished now and the hopup chamber, feed ramp and inner barrel are installed.

 

Ruwf4gzl.jpg

 

Unfortunately Im also out of green gas to test it. go figure. So while im waiting for some to be delivered, im going to try to finish the rest of the externals. Next up is either the stock, or the wooden grip.

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All of those things are things I hate, hahaha. Aside from maybe the sliding stock. I like old school guns, before everything was an AR15 with increasingly complex rails and fore ends. And I still think that A1 and A2 pistol grips work better then anything else Ive seen. I have small hands. THough, As I said in the beginning, I am probably going to make a wooden grip for it. Wood am the best.

 

The most I might do as far as "tactical" stuff, and im not even sure yet, is to put a section of rail under the barrel in the front. And I would probably just buy a premade rail section and screw it on. theres no need to machine something I can buy for $8.

A man after my own heart. Great looking SMG here!

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ok so, update with no pics because the look hasnt changed at all. buuut I finally got some green gas, and after some work on the internals, it now shoots quite well in semi auto (No auto cause the linkage arm broke a couple weeks back.)

 

The only issue it has is gas consumption. It cant quite get through a magazine yet. though im not sure that it ever will, since the hammer system probably requires a lot more energy to cycle then the mac11's bolt does. I can live with thqt though, being the first GBB ive designed from the ground up.

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Yeah, maybe. But I had a couple spare WE FCGs lying around. didnt have to spend money on anything. Plus the whole FCG sits in its own box which makes it really easy to just take out the whole thing when you have to fit all the other parts and stuff. THat FCG was probably in and out a hundred times so far. I dont even want to think about installing the springs and stuff each time. ugh.

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yeah I used one of those weaker hammer springs that RATech was selling with their high efficiency valves a while back. I don think theres any weaker ones I can find then that. But, as of the last test I got like 40- something shots before it got a jam so I think it might be able to get through the mag now on semi at least. I still have to fi the auto function though.

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unfortunately its at the bottom where they are binding. I shouldnt be surprised though, theyre cheap .25 bios. I shouldve expected that to be a problem.

 

IM gonna try to slow down the rof too. Anyone know where I can get random long springs to use as return springs? I get assortments of small springs on ebay but the longest ones are only about two inches long. not nearly enough for something like this. Ive been using springs out of my junk drawer but Im pretty much out of them by now. For this, in the meantime, Im going to try to work with the couple of springs I have left and see what I can do.

 

Major problem here is that since it uses a WE fcg, the bolt will get stuck behind the hammer if it moves too far back. the max it can move is about 2 inches. any further and it'll lock. Thankfully I made this one really easy to remove the lower, a single pin and a rear shelf hold the lower on so its easy to fix issues like that.

 

What I need is just like, a bag, filled with random springs anywhere from 4 to 8 inches long.especially if I want to try making something like a gbb rifle where the bolt travel would be much longer then this design.

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unfortunately its at the bottom where they are binding. I shouldnt be surprised though, theyre cheap .25 bios. I shouldve expected that to be a problem.

 

IM gonna try to slow down the rof too. Anyone know where I can get random long springs to use as return springs? I get assortments of small springs on ebay but the longest ones are only about two inches long. not nearly enough for something like this. Ive been using springs out of my junk drawer but Im pretty much out of them by now. For this, in the meantime, Im going to try to work with the couple of springs I have left and see what I can do.

 

Major problem here is that since it uses a WE fcg, the bolt will get stuck behind the hammer if it moves too far back. the max it can move is about 2 inches. any further and it'll lock. Thankfully I made this one really easy to remove the lower, a single pin and a rear shelf hold the lower on so its easy to fix issues like that.

 

What I need is just like, a bag, filled with random springs anywhere from 4 to 8 inches long.especially if I want to try making something like a gbb rifle where the bolt travel would be much longer then this design.

 

You could always try winding your own springs if you have a lathe.

 

As for the bolt travelling too far to the rear - polyurethane buffer?

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