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Mitsu

Tech question x2, shock absorber for piston/ work hardening of gears.

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So I bought a vfc 417 and then I realized that the 2.2 gb has some problems with cracking.

 

So currently I'm looking into dampening and shock absorbers in order to not crack it. There are 2 big trends that I'm aware of. First, sorbo. Sorbo is a recommended solution and many uses this method. However, sorbo has a slow reset. Hammar realized this and developed the silicon mod. Many recommend this method as well.

 

Anyone with experience or thoughts on the best method?

 

Another question.. I found som old threads about work hardening your gears (running brand new gears in a empty shell with low current), has anyone tried this and does it help with lowering noice and increased durability?

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There's also the possibility of a Retro Arms V2.2 shell.
Supposedly, the new version works.

Or so they say. :rolleyes:

 

I would say try silicone mod, make sure the rifle is airtight and shooting heavy BB, and it'll probably last a long time.

 

Last question: No, pointless pursuit.

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Thank you for the answers! 

 

Retro Arms V2.2 shell was pretty... but expensive:)

 

I will go for silicone then! 

 

Regarding the gears, I concur, I do not believe that it will "temper" the gear or make them more durable. Maybe it helps to make them "cleaner" and hence sound better? At least if you run them in water/oil/whiskey/unicorn tears.

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1) Sorbo works fine, the reset issue is negligible in any AEG you care to name. I have sorbopads in AEGs that run at 40rps and they chrono with 2fps deviation per shot in full auto. If you are getting inconsistency, it's not the sorbo that's causing it.

 

2) Silicone has a reset too and wears down more easily than a good sorbo pad.

 

3) Running your gears in an empty gearbox (IE: No loading) is not meant to harden them, it's meant to run them in so they make less noise. You should also, if you are doing this, run them with a lapping compound, but this will be messy and is a lot of effort for not much result.

 

4) Regardless if you go for sorbo or silicone, radius the gearbox cylinder windows, that have more of an effect on distributing stress evenly.

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Thank you for your answers. I bought some silicone as it is easier to buy in Swe than sorbo. If it fails I'm going sorbo.

 

I never belived that running the gears would do anything for the durability, but I think I will try running them for the

lulz, maybe with some compound.

 

Ofc, I will do the radius mod.

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A few years ago, when I was a regular on here, there was a long discussion about my usage of a Dry Film Lubricant on the Gear Teeth.

I still feel it's the best method, IF done correctly.

No messy Grease to attract and retain dust/dirt, silky-smooth running.

I'll never use Grease again.

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The Film I use isn't PTFE based.
It's a Molybdenum Disulphide based liquid that dries to form an extremely tough coating.
To give you an idea how tough it is, a typical EP Grease (extreme pressure) has a rating of around 2500 in a wear test (4-ball), the Dry Film Coating rating is around 11,000 . . . 
Silicone/Lithium Greases don't even have a rating, they're that 'weak'!

Grease is fine in sealed applications, like Ball Bearings, but on gears it needs to be re-applied too often to be practical for me.

I don't use Grease in the Cylinder either, just too messy, and I don't want to have to strip it all down every other game to re-do it.

 

Anyone that's stripped down an AEG Box after a few months use will understand . . . 
Mine look as good (and work as well) as the day they were built.

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It's called Molykote D321R, and comes in Aerosol or Tinned Liquid forms.
It's not cheap, but if you're careful, it goes a long way.
Instead of spraying the Gears directly, it's better to spray a little into a small plastic container, and use a fine Artist's Brush dipped in it to apply it to the Gear Teeth.
If you spray the Gears straight from the Can, you waste a lot in the overspray.
Preparation of the Gears is important too, they need to be totally Oil/Grease-free, warm them up with a hot-air gun (or VERY carefully with a Gas Torch), then degrease with Carb Cleaner, or other Solvent.
I also Blast the Teeth with a very fine Abrasive Powder, gives an excellent surface for the Coating to bond to.

You can use it on the Piston Teeth as well, and on the Piston Tracks in the G/Box shells.

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/molykote-d321r-anti-friction-aerosol-can-400ml/
 

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It's available in liquid form as well.

 

The grease type is more like a thick 'paste', is that what you have?

I have tried that in the past, it works well, but like all greases, is quite messy.

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