blobface Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Decided to find something to model to practice cad software, came across the Brevis III suppressor which IRL is 3D printed, so the mark left behind by a 3D printer is kinda authentic, making this a perfect subject. I have a chopped up Lighter pistol suppressor, so I decided the mock suppressor to go around this unit with 12mm LH thread for the WE / New Wave MP7. Here's the link for the rs version. Link to post Share on other sites
FELDJAGER Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 First time seeing the real one, so weird, but makes sense given the additive manufacturing. Great model Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 This is very cool! If I'm making this I would model the baffles and have it printed one-piece in SLS nylon to make it ultra authentic Link to post Share on other sites
cameron.mearns Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 That's so cool! I didn't realize it was big enough to get a tracer in there! Any thoughts on what you were going to do with the file? Had you given any thought to either putting it on Thingiverse, or Shapeways? I can add some contribution to the SLS concept though, be wary of thread-forms. SLS is nice, but threads don't always last very long. Think about a way to insert some form of rolled or cut thread in, such as capturing a nut, or a helicoil. You might have to oversize the neck a bit to make the nut fit, but I think you'll find the compromise worthwile. Souce: Used my Masters on SLS as a convenient excuse to print far more airsoft kit than I'll ever admit to the university... Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Yeah these threads are definitely very weak, afterall this is more of an exercise than a real product. Normal airsoft thread at 14 x 1mm LH is almost good enough for plinking use, especially PLA taps quite well compared to SLS nylon, but I wouldn't go skirmish with one, probably won't survive a hard hit to a wall or the ground which happens sometimes in a heated game, but this one would have no chance, the thread is 12 x 0.5mm LH...! With the neck being so thin the only way to make it would be to machine a rod to be inserted then bonded to the inside, I've already ordered a 12 x 0.5mm LH tap from eBay, which will take over a month to get here apparently... lol I'm not sure what to do with the file tbh, given it's plastered with trademarks and the threads not being strong enough for me to be comfortable to sell to people via Shapeways, I'd probably just leave it.. Link to post Share on other sites
cameron.mearns Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 7 minutes ago, blobface said: Yeah these threads are definitely very weak, afterall this is more of an exercise than a real product. Normal airsoft thread at 14 x 1mm LH is almost good enough for plinking use, especially PLA taps quite well compared to SLS nylon, but I wouldn't go skirmish with one, probably won't survive a hard hit to a wall or the ground which happens sometimes in a heated game, but this one would have no chance, the thread is 12 x 0.5mm LH...! With the neck being so thin the only way to make it would be to machine a rod to be inserted then bonded to the inside, I've already ordered a 12 x 0.5mm LH tap from eBay, which will take over a month to get here apparently... lol I'm not sure what to do with the file tbh, given it's plastered with trademarks and the threads not being strong enough for me to be comfortable to sell to people via Shapeways, I'd probably just leave it.. Fair enough. If Shapeways is off the cards could I pursuade you to put on Thingiverse? As for the threads, if you're looking at trying stuff in the name of trying stuff, I definitly recommend looking at trying a helicoil. I've had luck before with slipping them over the tip of a soldering iron and gently pressing them in. There is a bit of an art to it (if you are cautious you can always print a test block and trial them on that), but you'd be surprised how much of a difference they can make. Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Helicoil would be perfect for this, but I wasn't able to find a 12 x 0.5mm left handed one! Quite an unusual pitch for something this large and being left handed makes it even harder, no idea what WE was thinking... I could just send it to you if you want? Link to post Share on other sites
cameron.mearns Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 27 minutes ago, blobface said: Helicoil would be perfect for this, but I wasn't able to find a 12 x 0.5mm left handed one! Quite an unusual pitch for something this large and being left handed makes it even harder, no idea what WE was thinking... I could just send it to you if you want? If you did, I'd love you forever. I have some ideas for some variations on a theme that I have been entertaining for a while, but lacked the motivation to do it. But this would mean I only have to try the idiotic, probably-impossible stuff, rather than blaming the probably achievable stuff... Link to post Share on other sites
Rob15 Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 May be of interest, I was asked by a retailer to make them some M14x1 LH aluminium inserts to be used in 3D printed projects last year which were to be glued/pressed in and of course I made a load extra while my lathe was setup which I plan to put on sale soon. Not much use for the MP7s with M12 threads but for other projects maybe, speaking of which isn't the WE MP7 thread a 1mm pitch? I know that VFC, KSC/KWA and TM are all M12x1 in LH or RH. Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Yeah it makes no sense, although mind you I don't have the stock WE barrel but a steel barrel set with FH, but it would be really weird to change the thread in a 3rd party kit, don't have the original outer barrel to hand anymore to check! Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted January 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 *Oh nope, massively brain fart, you're right, it's 12 x 1mm LH, somehow thought it was 0.5 when I was posting, I'd modelled it as 12 x 1 as well..! Let's see if I can find helicoil in this thread! Link to post Share on other sites
Rob15 Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 If you don't have any luck with the helicoil try searching for 'v-coil', same thing just made by a different company. I know you can get M12x1 RH v-coils but LH may be a struggle, I was never able to find LH 14mm helicoils or v-coils which is why I ended up making a load of inserts last year. Link to post Share on other sites
guestnoone Posted September 2, 2019 Report Share Posted September 2, 2019 Ola, ohhhh brother - I only registred here because of the fun fact that EXACTLY to the same time of this year, I was trying to find a replica of that silencer too - and guess now: Could not find any, so I started teaching myself to use SolidWorks and made a model of that by myself aswell Maybe its not special to you, but to me it is great seeing another one liking this MP7 build (well, I drive it a bit different, but easy). My V1 is a 1 piece construction, but my V2 is a 2 piece construction for the AceTech Tracer Unit aswell, really exactly like yours, just with the difference that I did not considered to print the thread but cut it. May I ask how your printed thread works out? I like to share my Version aswell and like to discuss the specs of both: @blobface, where did you got all your references from? There are not that many, so expacilly the markings are kind of an open question, because not everything is covered by pictures. Did you made your own style or do you have clear references? There are also differences in the style of markings between different DeltaP Products and Versions. What weight is your piece made for? Mine has 1:1 weight in different versions, Steel, Ti, Al, ABS or Nylon. If I remember correct, an Aluminium print would be around 250€, a Titanium one around 500-600€. Sound much, but its the same weight and material like the RealSteel, so I honestly considered that (printing multiple ones made of Ti would bring the cost down). I wouls like to check/compare both models in detail and like to ask you, if you would mind sharing the editable file of yours? I will share my .step file as soon as I am home again (vacation). All I got for the moment I can share was saved in the cloud, but its only a preview of my early 1 piece construction for checking prices, optimized to be printed as greenstate brass base with steel filling for true weight. It has missing markings on the neck, like the early DeltaP Prototype for the MP7 got as you can see on YouTube. http://bit.ly/2ZMaNRg Geeetings Link to post Share on other sites
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