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Several Questions regarding Inokatsu M60E3


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Recently got one of my grail guns that I've wanted since I started airsoft, and it's fantastic. While taking the gun apart and figuring out how it works, I had a few questions regarding the wiring, since support weapon electrical wiring varies model to model.

1. Aside from the motor terminals, the microswitch provided was wired to two connectors, male Deans and female Tamiya. However, my box mag was modified and modified to solely use a deans connector. Is the feed motor and trigger mech supposed to be wired inline together? Are they wired in parallel to each other?

1a. If it is meant to be wired inline, does the stock wiring come with its own resistor inline to downvolt the boxmag motor? I noticed it's rated for 6V, so if I plan to use a 7.4v lipo, wouldn't that shorten the box mag's lifespan? If it isn't meant to be wired inline, then do I use a separate battery for the box mag?

2. Is there any way to decrease the trigger pull weight? I noticed the trigger mech has essentially 2 springs giving resistance: the one behind the actual trigger, and the spring holding back the activation button on the trigger switch. The amount of force needed to pull the trigger is insane right now.

3. Any other reliability mods I can do to make the functionality of the gun perfect? Gearbox is already taken care of, I just want to make sure it feeds reliable and whatnot.

Thanks!

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Hi mate,

As the owner an Ino Mk43 and M60A1 I probably can offer some assistance.

As for 1 and 1a, I just re-wired my guns and mags straight out of the box to use one battery to fire the gun and one battery to power the mag. I also wired the boxmag to have it's own pressure switch that I could press and the mag would feed. This is fairly easy and cheap to to, if you are confident with soldering. I have been using a 7.4V LiPo to run my boxmags without issues for years. The downside is, you gotta remember to press a button to make your gun feed, but it has never been a biggie for me, once I got used to it.

2. You basically have two options. Either find a looser spring for the trigger or put a screw into the trigger mechanism, where the trigger extension bar presses into the microswitch, so that you don't have to depress the trigger so much to make the gun fire. This is a lot harder to explain with words than to show with a picture, so I'll try to do that tomorrow.

3. I added a Warfet on both of my guns recently and they haven't let me down yet. I also replaced the original hopup c-clips with Airsoftpro ones, as the originals did a poor job of holding the barrel in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got around to take the gun apart enough to get a picture of the trigger mod. These came out a little blurry, but you get the idea.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8sZpDRNB3kM-J7Gc8pzrKkJOuaNbg5q/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x_xmDENJEzo03lh85bgZJy1y6qRdOzcY/view?usp=sharing

 

Edited by Black Knight
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On 6/29/2020 at 3:14 PM, Black Knight said:

As for 1 and 1a, I just re-wired my guns and mags straight out of the box to use one battery to fire the gun and one battery to power the mag. I also wired the boxmag to have it's own pressure switch that I could press and the mag would feed. This is fairly easy and cheap to to, if you are confident with soldering. I have been using a 7.4V LiPo to run my boxmags without issues for years. The downside is, you gotta remember to press a button to make your gun feed, but it has never been a biggie for me, once I got used to it.

So you are wiring the main gearbox motor and the boxmag motor inline as one complete circuit, then wiring a pressure switch in parallel onto the motor, correct?

I have no issues with soldering myself, I'm just terrible at electrical circuitry in my head lol.

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I got an Ino M60 Mod O, runs on an AK gearbox. Both the gun and box mag run off a single micro switch and battery pack. I've used 7.4v lipo and 9.6v nimh on it with no issues for several hundred thousand bbs. That includes a game where I put 30,000 rounds through it in just 2-days. Had no issues with feeding.

IMG_20200713_224549120.thumb.jpg.4c86d2fb664fa55defcdda17b8241fc2.jpg

IMG_20200713_224413489.jpg

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On 7/10/2020 at 6:25 PM, aznriptide859 said:

So you are wiring the main gearbox motor and the boxmag motor inline as one complete circuit, then wiring a pressure switch in parallel onto the motor, correct?

I have no issues with soldering myself, I'm just terrible at electrical circuitry in my head lol.

No, I have separated the boxmag wiring from from the gun completely. The gun has it's own wiring and runs on it's own battery. And the boxmag has it's own battery and is wired to a pressure switch, which I attach to the pistol grip with a couple of rubber bands and press while firing. Works like a charm.

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On 6/23/2020 at 9:12 PM, aznriptide859 said:

2. Is there any way to decrease the trigger pull weight? I noticed the trigger mech has essentially 2 springs giving resistance: the one behind the actual trigger, and the spring holding back the activation button on the trigger switch. The amount of force needed to pull the trigger is insane right now.

 

More often than not, excessive trigger pull weight is due to the trigger itself being misaligned during installation. You have to make sure both spring-loaded "plungers" are seated on their corresponding surfaces to get proper tension on the trigger. The springs can be replaced with those out of "clicky-type" pens if you want to soften the pull up a bit.

 

I'm afraid I'm not much help beyond that. My old Ino Mk43 wasn't too fussy, with the notable exception of trying to reinstall the feed tube between the front and rear halves of the receiver during reassembly. They are great guns otherwise, and will serve you well. I sold mine after I hit my longevity milestone: $1500 worth of bbs through a $1500 gun.

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I got my '60 in a trade 11-12 years ago, and when I received it only the right side trigger plunger and spring were installed. For a long time I had just assumed that's how it was supposed to be.

I don't think the previous owner(s?) said anything about it, and in the years I had it, it never was an issue for me personally.

Edited by Yoroiden
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2 hours ago, Yoroiden said:

I got my '60 in a trade 11-12 years ago, and when I received it only the right side trigger plunger and spring were installed. For a long time I had just assumed that's how it was supposed to be.

I don't think the previous owner(s?) said anything about it, and in the years I had it, it never was an issue for me personally.

 

Having only one trigger plunger isn't an issue. It's a fairly "dumb" component, so it isn't overly sensitive to deviation from factory specs.

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