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TM VSR G-SPEC Review and upgrade guild

 

Part 1

 

g1eg.jpg

 

Before you start reading if you want a review of the stock G-Spec this is not the place to be looking for it. When I ordered My g-spec I had no intentions of using it in stock form. I did pull the bolt back once and dry fired it, so i can tell you it has a easy bolt pull....and that is about it.

 

What Lies in the belly of the beast? (Upgrades)

Laylax Barrel Spacer for VSR-10 G-Spec

Laylax PSS10 6.03mm Inner Barrel for Marui VSR-10 ( 430mm )

Laylax PSS10 Stainless Cylinder Head for Marui VSR-10

Laylax PSS10 150 Spring for TM VSR-10

Laylax PSS10 Stainless Smooth Bearing Spring Guide for Marui VSR-10

Laylax PSS10 Teflon Cylinder for Marui VSR-10

Laylax Zero Trigger with Piston Set for Marui VSR10

 

The Upgrading.

 

First off, let me tell you that certain parts make this gun alot more difficult to upgrade. You can make life alot easier for yourself if you choose the right parts. I'll explain more of this later and recommend the parts that will require less hassle.

 

The first part that I upgraded was the internal barrel. I removed hop up unit with the stock internal barrel with no problems at all. The hop up unit in the G-spec is alot more complicated than the one that is found in the Maruzen APS2 and CA M24 but is still very straight forward to pull apart. Installing the new internal barrel was easy, after putting it all back together I went to go install barrel spacers into the outer barrel. Simple enough, you just have to force them down to the desired depth. Now with the spacers in place I wanted to put the internal barrel and hop-up unit back into place. This is where I ran into my first problem, while I was pushing the barrel and hop up down into the outer barrel, it stopped. At first I thought I just did not get it through the hole in the second spacer but I soon relized that was not the problem. The real problem was that the internal barrel could not go through the end cap of the barrel. The original barrel would sit just behind this cap but my internal barrel is longer than the original.

 

****HINT****

If you get the 303mm length internal barrel, you should encounter no problems about it fitting.

*********

 

To deal with this problem I first tried to remove the end cap, but in the end opted to just drill a larger hole. My reason for this was because even if I did remove the end cap I would also be removing the tread that are required for attaching the G-specs silencer (as they are one piece). It was quick and easy enough to drill as the metal is very soft. With this done the Hop-up and internal barrel can be installed with no more difficulties.

 

The next part was putting the cylinder, piston, spring, handle and spring guide together. This was simple enough as it all just comes together. I opted to do a dry assembly. The reason I decided to do this is so that the would be no chance of lube getting onto the hop up rubber and effecting the accuracy. Because I am using the laylax Teflon cylinder this is possible. If you are going to use the stock cylinder or some other brand you will most likely need to use some sort of lube or the gun may damage itself during use.

 

****HINT****

If you are using laylax springs make sure the dead coils face the shooter (dead coils are the coils that are more closely bunched together)

*********

 

The zero trigger was the next item on my list. I bought the zero trigger because it cost about the same as buying all the sears and piston separately (given you use laylax parts) and for the very smooth trigger pull.

 

*********

Laylax Zero Trigger with Piston

-Total: $153-

Trigger Sear

Spring Guide Stopper

Piston Sear

High Pressure Piston w/ Silent Shaft

-Total: $132-

*********

 

I also thought that it would make my upgrade simpler as I wouldn't have to take apart the G-specs trigger unit. But how I was so very wrong, it was the single biggest pain in my whole upgrade of the G-spec. First off, to screw down the rear part of the trigger unit you must first remove the mount from the trigger unit as you can't screw it down while it is attached. After you have done so, reattach it to the trigger unit and screw down the front of trigger unit. Positioning is extremely vital. If the zero trigger is not in the right place it will not catch the piston, extremely frustrating. I recommend once you find the sweet spot, you tighten the unit into place and do no remove it, use the quick piston release if you need to get the piston out. The next problem I faced was the trigger guard. The stock trigger unit is a different shape than the zero trigger. I do not know of any trigger guards that you can buy that will fit the zero trigger without any problems. So you need to modify the trigger guard so that the gun can sit in the stock. First off remove the tube at the rear that is used to guild the long screw, then you have to cut the front off that would normally be used to secure the front of the guard to the stock trigger unit (about half way). Finally you need to cut away the thin support line/bean thing that would now leave the front top part of the trigger guard hollow (this is for the extra length of the zero triggers spring guide stopper). That should allow you to use the stock trigger guard with the zero trigger.

 

*********

Would I recommend the zero trigger? I will neither recommend it or damn it. Yes it is a pain to install but it also allows for a very light and smooth trigger pull. If you do not mind doing all the extra work required to get the unit installed and working then it is a great addition but at the same time the stock unit with the right parts is also very good. It comes down to your personal choice. If the safety switch is a must for you then you will not like the zero trigger as it lacks this feature.

*********

 

What do I think of what?

 

The stock

I'm starting with the stock because this is the single area the VSR series seems to be criticized the most. I will begin by saying, no this stock isn't as strong or as heavy as the APS2 series or CA M24. It is fairly light but at the same time I do not feel that I need to handle it with kid gloves, it is still a very solid stock. The finish on it is a very nice matt black. There is a visible seam line that runs along the top and bottom but they are hardly noticeable except for the one at the bottom of the hand guard. The stock comes with two sling mounts, one to the rear and another located at the front. I have used the one at the front to attach a bipod and it is handling the weight without any problems so far. The only thing about the stock that disappoints me is the butt. I would have like it to have been adjustable and to also have a rubber shock absorber, but that is just my personal preference.

 

The silencer

The silencer is top notch. It's all metal and is a matt finish that matches the rest of the metal work on the G-spec so it doesn't look out of place when attached. Also it is foam filled so it works very well in dampening the report of the gun.

 

The bolt handle

This thing is solid. Even with a laylax 150 spring installed i can easily operate the bolt as you would a real rifle, something i couldn't do with my upgraded APS2. I really like the design of the G-Specs bolt it stays out of the way of the scope and is very comfortable to use.

 

The hop-up unit.

This thing is a lot more complicated that the one that is found in the M24 or the APS2, but for good reason. This thing works like a dream, easy to use and send a bb's straight and true, I have no issues with this unit at all.

 

End of part one. I will detail performance later, I didn't get a chance to zero in yet or to get the hop up optimal but so far i have been blown away by my G-spec's performance. Updates will be up very soon with more images. Feel free to ask anything.

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  • 11 months later...
It uses Weaver mounts.

 

Any of the APS series including the L96 have a lousy hop up system. I'm glad your going for the g-spec, you will not be disapointed.

Sp true,

 

ive owned both, (maruzen L96) and the Gspec is by far the better option'

 

Deepeyes

 

my mate opted to buy the zero trigger and he to had a nightmare fitting it all, when i got my Gspec i did the sears, you can also adjust the trigger pull to make it verylight on the stock trigger, personal prefernce i like to have to squeeze a little to get the shot off :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

did anyone have guide to open the stock cylinder [original] vsr-10 G-Spec?

 

and what about the cylinder head? is it OK to use the stock [original] cylinder head when the original cylinder already opened?

 

don't have money to buy PSS10 teflon cylinder :(

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  • 3 years later...
  • 3 months later...

Would you say that the stock sears be ok when using a laylax150 spring? Or would it require new ones? would the deepfire ones surfice for this?

btw nice build ^.^, The first ever skirmish i did there was a dude there with a bar10 upgraded loads he said he had spent £1200 on it!!! CRAZY!

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I have a pro sniper and G-spec using most of the same parts you listed. I use the polarstar pistons in mine and my pro sniper has a old edgi spring when they use to sell them to put it @ 515 fps average and the G spec has a laylax M170 that puts it in the 572fps average. Both use stock cylinder which I prefer because the teflon tends to scratch from the piston guides after a while. The crome of the stock cylinder still has a nice smooth surface. I use EDGI inner barrels 6.00, Fire Fly hop up rubber (hard). I keep the silencer off the G spec to keep it short for the needs of the situation and location. I did a sear replacment on both and the spring guide stoppers are laylax. Just an FYI for those that don't know. PDI stuff IE springs, guides and pistons work around a 9mm size spring and guide. While Laylax uses a 7mm spring, guide and piston. Keep that in mind when getting a spring, guide and piston, don't mix and match the two. A laylax spring won't fit a PDI guide, while a PDI spring will fit a Laylax guide it won't fit in a laylax piston. Using a 7mm spring with a 7mm guide in a piston ment for a 9mm spring will alow a lot of slop and the spring twistes and bends, wasting a lot of energy. This is just some tips some folks get caught up on. I'd like to try a Zero hop up unit in one just to see if it gives any more improvment in hop over stock.

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