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Great info Sid. I just got my WE Hi Capa a week ago and I really like it. The only problem I've had is a leaky mag. Kick, power, and sound are all good. I was thinking about getting the KWA G19 but bought this gun instead simply because 1911 type guns are pretty and glocks are ugly :P and I also got it for really cheap at jungletoy. I've had no problems w/ it locking back after the last shot on green, the grip safety works fine, and the rear sight is adjustable by turning the screws. CO2 mags can be found at airsplat:

http://www.airsplat.com/itemdesc.asp?CartI...2%2DMAG&eq=&Tp=

 

35 rds and airsplat is supposedly the only US retailer carrying it.

 

I would recommend this gun to others. Can't beat the value for the price!

Edited by davedawg123
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Sid- Any chance of a photo of the naughty grip safety.. and what piece was filed back to improve( actually, make working again) the Grip safety?

 

Or was that in combination with the 3-leaf-spring tine that connects with the grip safety?

 

I really do want the bloody safety to work! :)

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Sid- Any chance of a photo of the naughty grip safety.. and what piece was filed back to improve( actually, make working again) the Grip safety?

 

Or was that in combination with the 3-leaf-spring tine that connects with the grip safety?

 

I really do want the bloody safety to work! :)

 

The leaf springs are fine although you might want to have a look where they fit, up near the hammer, as SOON as you remove the spring housing. That way, if the leaf spring plate falls out (and it probably will) you'll know where the various prongs go.

 

The pin that holds the spring housing in place is at the base of the grip, at the rear. You'll be able to push this out by hand, using a small screwdriver or allen key. You won't need a hammer to knock it out. It's not that tight a fit.

 

READ AS WELL AS LOOKING AT PICS ;)

Note that you can check the function of the grip safety without the hammer cocked. Even with the spring housing removed and the hammer down (point the muzzle at the floor to ensure the hammer doesn't flop back and cock) all you need to do is lightly pull the trigger with your left hand while using the right hand to gradually move the grip safety to see where it engages.

 

Also, and very IMPORTANT, I found that it's possible to pull through the grip safety if you've only just about removed enough material. Once you pull through it you, will need to remove even more material before it'll engage solidly again.

 

Anyway, on with the pics...

 

This pic is showing the surfaces that have to be filed. Note that the bottom surface of the grip safety has had the paint removed simply to tidy it up cos I scratched it while filing the back of the tab. You could just stick a bit of duct tape over that surface to protect it. Me, I'm either gonna leave it as is or, if I can be bothered, I'll touch it up with a bit of model paint.

grip01.jpg

 

This pic shows how it all looks from the side. The red lines show the surfaces to be filed and the green line, on the spring housing, shows the original edge. I actually cut the plastic away using a stanley knife and then just tidied it up with a file.

Grip02.jpg

 

Finally, I would like to clear up a bit of wrong information.

 

Since I saw the gun on Friday night I've been scared about touching the "stickers" on the slide. I was worried I might rub them off.

 

I looked at them more closely this morning and.... drum roll.... THEY ARE NOT STICKERS.

 

The "OPS MRP CAL.45" markings are definately laser-etched on. They are not stickers or paint.

Snowman was looking at this same gun for his review and said they were painted on. It really IS difficult to tell but I can promise you that they are etched.

They're done in the same way as the Trades on an ICS M4. Probably laser or acid etched.

 

This, of course, means that you couldn't just remove them using paint remover if you wanted to have your own trades engraved on the slide.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There have been some reports, over on ASR, of people having TM Hi-Capas with non-functional grip safeties out of the box and after some use.

 

It would seem that the tolerances for operation on this part are more marginal than the production tolerances on either model.

 

I didn't strip the gun's grip at all, so I didn't (as was suggested may have happened) misalign the grip safety on reassembly. Sid's mentioned that this wasn't possible anyway, but sometimes such suggestions morph into fact in later posts, so I thought I'd clear it up now :)

 

Interesting about the markings, I can see that makes sense as they are very sharp edged and there is no 'surround' as you usually find with decals. I guess this is something like the finish used by WA and KSC on their S&W automatics?

 

Cheers.

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Regarding the grip-safety, I'll be honest and say I managed to screw mine up again after I first fixed it.

 

I filed a tiny amount off the metal grip safety, itself, and then, without thinking, decocked the gun with my thumb.

I felt the trigger pull through the grip safety and, next time I tried, the grip safety offered very little resistance.

 

That was when I decided to slice a couple of mm off the hammer spring housing instead. This has made the grip safety very solid indeed.

I still wouldn't like to deliberately try to force the trigger though. I'm sure it'd still be possible to overcome the grip safety if you tried hard.

 

Regarding the markings, I suspect they're laser-etched. If you look closely you can see where curved letters are made from several straight lines joined together. A lot like the writing you see on cad/cam drawings, if you see what I mean.

 

Only other place I've seen this in airsoft is on an ICS M4 so I couldn't comment on any other gun.

 

TBH, I'd love to have a look at a WA S&W but I've never had the opportunity.

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