infected Posted September 20, 2006 Report Share Posted September 20, 2006 Sounds like you need a new cylinder head and a new o-ring for your piston head. Yes you need to take apart your gear box. If you are not comfortable with the "learning experience" then take it to a quality airsoft store and have them do it. Airsoft Atlanta just started up thier internet repair service, where you can send in your parts to them. Link to post Share on other sites
Rattler Posted September 20, 2006 Report Share Posted September 20, 2006 well the thing is I kinda need it soon and have hardly any money because I just bought 2 AEG's, I iwll be using it as a loaner at a large battle coming up. Link to post Share on other sites
Rattler Posted September 20, 2006 Report Share Posted September 20, 2006 ok, I just opened her up and WHOOEY, the compression was soo bad it was in the minus numbers.... and the spring guide ring (ring around the rear side) was shattered, I don't think this helped the sad performance any.... only one spring popped out and the bevel gear popped out of its hole. I am currently working on getting replacement parts ASAP, ohh and I also replaced the spring with the one from my UTG MP5 Spring gun (one in the AEG was left compressed when I got the gun, only bout 240fps). I will let you guys know how it comes along... Rattler Link to post Share on other sites
spiky_fly_guy Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 Wow..what a mass of info.....Excellent work Static...You're probably not monitoring this thread anymore but if you are thanks..I took my UTG MP5 (SDR5) Team SD apart today... 3 and a half hours to break it all down, open the gearbox and what did I find. I'l have to tell you as I didnt take pics as I wasn't too confident to take on more than one thing at a time, anyway.. The cylinder head is already ported (shock) The rubber o ring is okay, bit of a rough edge but not bad (changed it) The motor is soldered to the wires in the handle (bummer) one of the soldered joints broke when the motor was coming out The wiring is quite a heavy(heavier than what was in yours originally but not as beefy as the 16 you put in with the deans) The rest is pretty much the same as yours. I got the gearbox and motor back together in the handle and temporarily joined the wires to the motor, did a few dry fires and it all seemed to be fine, i'll get it together properly when ive got sum connectors on the wires for the motor maybe change the spring and guide, will most likely leave the rest, if i've any bother with the motor pulling the spring i'l just up the battery to a 9.6V.. Anyway time to go.. Gareth (Northern Ireland) Link to post Share on other sites
spiky_fly_guy Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 Dont open it if youre only going to port the piston head, it's already done in the latest model(Team SD)..If you plan to put in a heavier spring and guide and maybe re-wire it then get her cracked open Gareth Link to post Share on other sites
michaelmo11 Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 Im also having some difficulty with my UTG MP5... when i press the trigger, the motor starts runnning but not the gears in the gearbox...so i assumed it wasnt catching... i took the plate off on the bottom of the handle and the motor seemed to feel loose so when i push it up and then try and fire again it seems to make a grinding noise or something im not sure.... i have no idea what to do please help...thanks Link to post Share on other sites
spiky_fly_guy Posted September 24, 2006 Report Share Posted September 24, 2006 Im also having some difficulty with my UTG MP5... when i press the trigger, the motor starts runnning but not the gears in the gearbox...so i assumed it wasnt catching... i took the plate off on the bottom of the handle and the motor seemed to feel loose so when i push it up and then try and fire again it seems to make a grinding noise or something im not sure.... i have no idea what to do please help...thanks <{POST_SNAPBACK}> There is a little metal disk in the plate you remove to get to the motor, if this is not present and you have fiddled with the allen key hole you will have to put something in there and adjust the allen key so the motor moves up to mesh with the gears in the gear box Link to post Share on other sites
Rattler Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 sounds like a stripped bevel gear to me Link to post Share on other sites
thenobodies66 Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 my v2 is only shooting full auto. ive had it for almost a year and cant return it? it just goes full auto. i want to fix it because im selling it and the guy wants semi. Link to post Share on other sites
Victory Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 For those of you asking about suppressors, I'm pretty sure Guarder makes a QD Suppressor that fits over and locks onto the flashhider, but it's around $100.00, so around the cost of the gun. There might be other QD suppressors out there, though. -Vic Link to post Share on other sites
Woodco Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 This is a very long topic... Link to post Share on other sites
Rattler Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 This is a very long topic... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> your just making it longer with useless posts like that. The reason that it is stuck on full auto is because the stock selector plate is cheap junk. You can get new ones online, I think airsoft atlanta and evike carry them. Rattler Link to post Share on other sites
thenobodies66 Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 thanks but the guy came over today to shoot it and doesnt really care. he just wants to airsoft:) Link to post Share on other sites
Raco9 Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 My brother's gun did the same thing. (the semi not working) In the gear box under the gear that pulls the piston back,(I can't remember the name) there is a switch. when the gun is on semi the switch is engaged. I dont know how to fix it but that is how the semi works. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 Mine just started having problems shooting semi (it's shooting semi / burst / full auto .... all when it's set to semi). Link to post Share on other sites
Md0ggyd0g Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 If this has been mentioned before, I'm sorry, but with 132 pages well.... What shimming configurations have worked on your guys''s mp5s? I'm thinking about doing it for the first time, so I'm curious. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 It is different for EVERY gun. You can't just toss in the same size shims someone else used and say it will work. That's just a problem especially with entry level guns with lower quality controll. The parts specs are not as tight, and tollarances are too loose. Here is the shim guide I used as I just reshimed mine (for the second time since I got it) today: http://www.858airsoft.com/upgrades/shim.html I noticed the today when I was cleaning out my gearbox, that it needed another shim job, so I did that today. Also, you guys who have done upgrades. If you've had them in there for a long while, you might want to consider opening your gearbox, and taking EVERYTHING out. Then washing it out and throughly drying it. The relube and reshim it. Made a difference for me for sure. Seems to have a slightly higher rate of fire, and is actually a touch quieter. And remember tons of lube is not a good thing. Link to post Share on other sites
cllwayzata2011 Posted October 3, 2006 Report Share Posted October 3, 2006 My brother's gun did the same thing. (the semi not working) In the gear box under the gear that pulls the piston back,(I can't remember the name) there is a switch. when the gun is on semi the switch is engaged. I dont know how to fix it but that is how the semi works. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The gear is called the Spur Gear and the Switch is called the cut off lever. Link to post Share on other sites
Sergeant Bilko Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 I had to open my gearbox recently to put in a new spring guide, and everything sort of shot out. So I reshimmed and got all the gears back in, but I don't know how to put in the anti-reversal latch. No matter how I put it in, it seems to be the wrong way, and lock up the gears the wrong way. Where could I find a pic of how it goes in? Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 I had to open my gearbox recently to put in a new spring guide, and everything sort of shot out. So I reshimmed and got all the gears back in, but I don't know how to put in the anti-reversal latch. No matter how I put it in, it seems to be the wrong way, and lock up the gears the wrong way. Where could I find a pic of how it goes in? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Here's a really bad picture of it. I tried to outline the spring to show you how it goes in. Basicly you want the flat side of the latch facing the bevel gear. Put the short side of the axel down in the gearbox. Make sure the spring is under the latch but wraps back towards the top. Link to post Share on other sites
Sergeant Bilko Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Well, I think I've fixed my gearbox, but now I'm not sure where the screws go now . This gun was disassembled about two months ago, and I didn't have the right parts until yesterday. Think I could get a picture of where the screws go? I know where the hop-up screws and everything go, I just need to know which screws go on the body. Link to post Share on other sites
Rattler Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 So yeah, I don't recommend that method. If you want to try being lazy first, and you don't mind spending the money, I'd try a different motor (maybe an EG700 or EG1000). They're easy to swap, and if it doesn't work out and you have to rewire it anyway, then you'll have good wiring and a good motor. Can't hurt anything but your bank account. You couldnt put in an eg1000 without new bushings, the plastic ones would melt under that speed and with the pressure of an m100, the gun wouldnt last a month. However, with metal bushings and all the other inexpensive upgrades, you would have a gun almost as good as a TM. Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle Hawkins Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 first off, plz don't get mad at me, cuz i'm not don't reading all of this thread. But has anyone ever tried 2 make one of these wind up mags that come with the gun into an auto wind up by attaching a motor? if so could u show me some pics? If not could u help me think of an idea as 2 how i should go about doing this. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 They sell things that do this already. It'd be easier and not too much more expensive to just buy one. Look for the hi-cap winder on this page. http://airsoftatlanta.com/access.htm Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle Hawkins Posted November 4, 2006 Report Share Posted November 4, 2006 They sell things that do this already. It'd be easier and not too much more expensive to just buy one. Look for the hi-cap winder on this page. http://airsoftatlanta.com/access.htm <{POST_SNAPBACK}> thanks for the help, i have never seen one of those before. But do u know if they sell them for cheaper anywhere else? Link to post Share on other sites
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