junior Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 (edited) What would you recommend to get the black TM controls to match an SD STI silver frame? I've seen your old Executive which was hands down amazing. I believe it is the same gun that Vicious now has/had and is pictured above with a different SD grip. I liked the matte finish from the bead blasting but want something that will match the frame as I've stated. Thanks 4boost. Yeah it's was the same gun that Vicious pictured.... If you want a finish that matches the color and finish of the SD slide and frame, you could get the controls bead blasted then re-finish them with Gun-Kote matte silver finish. I've personally never seen the actual color in person, but by the color of the sample on the website it looks like a close match. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...%20GUN%20FINISH Just an idea... EDIT: Someone help! new page and I don't have any pictures.... EDIT2: Whatever, here is a picture of a slide I recently installed for a friend of mine. Edited January 31, 2008 by junior Link to post Share on other sites
ViciousV10s Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 (edited) 4boost, I would think that if you glassbead the stock controls with enough pressure and small enough beads they will actually come much closer to matching the silver SD frame than what is shown on the STI Executive above. Tunerguy is the one who glassbeaded the controls on the Executive so Im not sure what specs he blasted them at. EDIT: I didnt see Junior's post, that Brownell's Gun-Kote will probably work very well. I haven't used that particular product but I have used Brownell's Teflon/Moly oven cure gun finish and it was great. Edited January 31, 2008 by ViciousV10s Link to post Share on other sites
junior Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 (edited) I've actually tried a number of times to bead blast the stock TM controls, every time I get the same result. I've tried using higher pressure, lower pressure, I've even stripped the paint completely before I started blasting... I'm using this blasting media: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6ZC13 I forgot how long it took to do this, but I started off just playing around.This is the best finish I could achieve and it was done by first stripping the paint with a dremel, then blasting at about 50 PSI. Very time consuming, and the finish didn't come out much better then the standard process... KSC metal comes out much better.... Edited January 31, 2008 by junior Link to post Share on other sites
ViciousV10s Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Well that frame and those controls look like a much nicer "silver" finish than what's on the Executive. Looks like a pretty decent finish to me Junior. Looks like theyd be a decent match to the SD silver, is it? Link to post Share on other sites
junior Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 (edited) "Trick of the camera" as some would say. It is a bit nicer then the bits on the executive but still not as nice as one would want or expect on such an expensive kit. If I kept the executive I was going to do like you did buy the dual tone 4.3 and steal the controls.. edit: The finer glass beads do improve the look though, It gives it a softer appearance. Edited January 31, 2008 by junior Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Yeah I should get my TM today from Den. I'll have a go at the controls this weekend. It'll give me a chance to break in my new glass beading cabinet. The Gun-Kote stuff seems interesting. Junior, I can't see the pics you posted at work since they block imagehosting sites. I'll check it out when I get home. Thanks for the tips guys. I might tap into some more of your knowledge when I start getting into my build. Link to post Share on other sites
krame Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 The infinity slide looks good junior. That gun looks exactly like my old one. Link to post Share on other sites
The_Racer Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I forgot how long it took to do this, but I started off just playing around.This is the best finish I could achieve and it was done by first stripping the paint with a dremel, then blasting at about 50 PSI. Very time consuming, and the finish didn't come out much better then the standard process... Dont use a Dremel to do that!!! I did that once and i f***cked up my barrels , ask around if someone who collects knifes or something , polishing a barrel with the right tools , takes 5 minutes... I have a machine here that can do that , and i polished receivers , barrels , anything thats not made out of plastic , for hole my team... even an M14 EBR kit , thats now shiny instead of black... I do thest things , and i ask 15€ (Euro's not dollars) for a barrel set , and for other things , 25€ /hour work... Kind Regards, Hans Link to post Share on other sites
junior Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Thanks Krame. I actually like the Guarder slide. Decent weight and a pretty good finish. Not as good as SD but good for people building on a budget. The Racer: Dremel has a couple finishing abrasive buffs that work perfectly to remove the paint. They don't take away any material, but their perfect for removing the top layer of paint if used on a low enough speed. It even gets in all the tight spots and engravings. Link to post Share on other sites
ViciousV10s Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I think only nEWBs mess up their guns with Dremels. Once you learn how to use a Dremel and their bits properly they are quite handy in speeding up the beginnings of a polishing job...I certainly wouldn't use one to FINISH a polishing job though. Anyway, here's a few pics of the TM 4.3 dual stainless (with black controls) Link to post Share on other sites
ching4ever Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Looks great. Got any plan for this new baby? Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Lol, I think his original plan was to rob the controls off it. I still can't believe you can't get replacement parts from TM...... Link to post Share on other sites
ViciousV10s Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Yeah I had no plans for this 4.3 other than stealing the silver controls for my real race gun. Im probably just going to leave this 4.3 stock. Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) A stock *gasp* 2011. Say it's not so. Actually, TM Hi-Capa's shoot so nicely when they are stock that it is probably a good idea to leave alone for the moment. It looks nice as it is. I'm curious though, how is the silver finish on the mag? Do you think that it will get torn up/wear off with use? Edited February 1, 2008 by Romulus Link to post Share on other sites
Davos Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I got to wate 2 more weeks till I get mine. Its going to be my first gas blow back. I realy want to uprade it and do stuff to it. Make it better. I have problems Link to post Share on other sites
felix4536 Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 does anybody shoot and actually use there guns or is everyone here collectors?? i have yet to see a weathered 2011 Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 There's a difference between using a gun and abusing it. Link to post Share on other sites
ViciousV10s Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 (edited) Felix, the majority of the "race gun" 2011's in this thread are used for IPSC style competition target shooting. This ain't MiL-SiM, we keep or pistols in tip-top shape for optimal performance and reliability..and well, cus they look purty! Personally, I've put roughly 500 rounds through my main HiCapa in the past 3 days. Practicing target shooting can be very addictive, especially since you don't need a group to skirmish with and can do it in the comfort of your own home. Edited February 2, 2008 by ViciousV10s Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 does anybody shoot and actually use there guns or is everyone here collectors?? i have yet to see a weathered 2011 When It is warm out I regularly take my 2011's outside and skirmish with them. I built my guns to look nice but not so nice that if they get a bit scraped up they look bad. Then, of course, there is killing targets. Link to post Share on other sites
ching4ever Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Felix, the majority of the "race gun" 2011's in this thread are used for IPSC style competition target shooting. This ain't MiL-SiM, we keep or pistols in tip-top shape for optimal performance and reliability..and well, cus they look purty! Personally, I've put roughly 500 rounds through my main HiCapa in the past 3 days. Practicing target shooting can be very addictive, especially since you don't need a group to skirmish with and can do it in the comfort of your own home. Totally agree on that Link to post Share on other sites
Clockwork_O Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Can someone help me finding a SCW3 hop unit and barrel for a WA 6inch SVI? I need to replace my old magna hopup so i can get good range.... Item must be shipped to Belgium (EU) Kind regards Milan Link to post Share on other sites
Cam Keo SOC16 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Hey guys, I'm a GBB noob, and I am purchasing an WA Infinity 5", is this considered a 2011 or 1911? I'm assuming 2011, but you know how some of this stuff goes. Link to post Share on other sites
RSP1 Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Hey guys, I'm a GBB noob, and I am purchasing an WA Infinity 5", is this considered a 2011 or 1911? I'm assuming 2011, but you know how some of this stuff goes. 2011. The distinguishing feature is the modular, 1-piece grip assembly. Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Do you guys know where I can pick up a KM or CP customs (or any stainless steel) hammer strut for the TM 5.1? No one has them in stock. Also what is the advantage (if at all) of having a recoil spring guide like the First/Laylax/Firefly guide with bearings? http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=12148 Link to post Share on other sites
RSP1 Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Do you guys know where I can pick up a KM or CP customs (or any stainless steel) hammer strut for the TM 5.1? No one has them in stock. Also what is the advantage (if at all) of having a recoil spring guide like the First/Laylax/Firefly guide with bearings? http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=12148 I have a Firefly unit with bearings for the G17 which is the same thing in design and execution, just applied to a different model. First off it's a great quality item and far nicer than the stock one in terms of smooth fit with the slide and cosmetics. I don't know the purpose of the bearings myself but my guess it they help keep the base of the rod from unscrewing itself during cycling since friction between the threaded base and the spring caps is really cut down. Link to post Share on other sites
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