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Star M249 Para Examined...


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Unsure about that, Saxon. I would however hazard a guess that it's an arbitrary system, but that's a guess. I imagine I could look smarter than I am by looking up the numbering system on Google, but I can't be bothered :P

 

Directly before I asked for the oring box today for another application, the guy at my hardware store counter popped out the same yellow plastic box stocked with o-rings numbered as I indicated that looked like this:

 

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p...14&r=2205&g=107

Edited by Wupjak
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thanks for the info guys, i'll try some teflon tape.

 

when i installed the metal gearbox, my FPS is barely over 200, theres a serious leak somewhere. I am almost certain its not in the gearbox, it has to be between the nozzle and the bucking, or around the barrel and the bucking. I'm using a systema bucking, and its rather loose around the barrel.

 

When i take the gun apart, and hold the chamber against the gearbox, i can still see some of the chamfered end of the nozzle through the Feed hole, it looks like it should go in further,i dont know if this is normal or not, i never noticed it before. has anyone noticed this by chance?

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Legend? LOL, no. You're welcome though. BTW, this sentence:

 

Directly before I asked for the oring box today for another application, the guy at my hardware store counter popped out the same yellow plastic box stocked with o-rings numbered as I indicated that looked like this:

 

 

Should have read:

 

Directly before I asked for the oring box today for another application, I asked the clerk if they carried metric O-rings. He said no, then popped out the same yellow plastic box stocked with o-rings numbered as I indicated that looked like this:

 

 

 

@ Warmonger:

 

Try the barrel and bucking first. Easiest to troubleshoot and may address the issue in one go. I think you'll be surprised how much air escapes around that bucking. Hold the inner barrel with the bucking on it in your hands, cover the end of the bucking with your index finger and blow into the muzzle end of the inner. That's ALOT of air.

 

You'll see major improvement wrapping the bucking in tape.

 

Also, you got the Wild Monkey gearbox? I had that one and don't remember any weird fitment issues like the one you describe.

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hey im interested in buying myself a para... just read your review, i must admit i skipped over the pictures, but do you think its well worth it? im only asking as im pretty much a nooby softer barely a yr old

:flamed:

 

and if it is worth it, what other accessories am i gonna have to fork out for?? like probably extra batteries for skirmishes...

 

anyway if you can let me know, many thanks...

 

me

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The electrical switch, right?

 

When mine burned out, I replaced it with Classic Army's SAW trigger switch. It's rated for higher amperage, which theoretically would increase resistance and lower rate of fire. However, I didn't notice any of that after installing the new switch.

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The electrical switch, right? 

 

When mine burned out, I replaced it with Classic Army's SAW trigger switch.  It's rated for higher amperage, which theoretically would increase resistance and lower rate of fire.  However, I didn't notice any of that after installing the new switch.

 

Why would being rated for an increased amperage result in a higher resistance?

 

It just means that the component can withstand a higher amperage. The resistance would only go up if you actually had a higher amperage.

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if its rated for higher anmperage, it probably has thicker wires, which would result in more resistance.

 

who sells a classic army replacement?

 

 

WHAT?!?!

 

Thicker wires = LESS RESISTANCE.

 

 

Resistivity of a wire (p) = (RA)/l

 

Derives to:

 

R = p(l/a)

 

So

 

R = Resistance

 

A = cross-sectional area

 

l = length

 

Higher cross sectional area (a) equals LESS resistance.

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ive read through the entirety of the thread, and really appreciate all the conclusions you guys have come to. i plan on picking up a Para, and have already taken note of the boxmag switch problem...but ive found some mixed information about upgraded springs/batteries.

 

 

the plan is to keep everything but the spring stock, im torn between using an 8.4 and a 9.6 with an sp110 spring...am i going to run into reliability issues? would i be better off losing 20 fps and putting the spring guide and stock spring at the "level 2" position?

 

i guess im just worried about shredding somethign internally, because although i can fix things in gearboxes, i much prefer not taking the risk lol

 

 

again thanks for all the help from everyone

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ive read through the entirety of the thread, and really appreciate all the conclusions you guys have come to. i plan on picking up a Para, and have already taken note of the boxmag switch problem...but ive found some mixed information about upgraded springs/batteries.

the plan is to keep everything but the spring stock, im torn between using an 8.4 and a 9.6 with an sp110 spring...am i going to run into reliability issues? would i be better off losing 20 fps and putting the spring guide and stock spring at the "level 2" position?

 

i guess im just worried about shredding somethign internally, because although i can fix things in gearboxes, i much prefer not taking the risk lol

again thanks for all the help from everyone

 

Based on what i have seen with mine thus far, a 9.6 and SP110 should be fine in there. However, that being said, i prefer to run mine with an 8.4v, i just don't need the ROF to be any higher and burn through BBs any faster. Just my 2 cents.

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