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Star M249 Para Examined...


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I ran into some issues with my SAW, but they're all squared away now.  Basically it was a feeding issue made worse by a bad fit between the cylinder head (brass) nozzle and the air nozzle that's mounted on the tappet plate. 

 

I wrote up a small supplement based on my experiences with my particular gun to compliment staticzero's definitive review.  The url is for our team's forums, and the mini-review/tech piece is posted there. 

 

http://p3.forumforfree.com/star-m249-vt375-taskforce20.html

 

Edit:  In no way, shape or form is this piece meant to be a one-up on staticzero's review.  I add this only in the interest of increasing the amount of information available about the weapon.  Hope you don't mind, staticzero.

 

Good review :)

What rail do you use? Is it a rail modded on or a feed tray cover modded on*hopes somebody found a way to do this :P *

 

 

I was right ;)

Edited by Gundrosen
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I think everyone knows normal STAR M249 Spring guide has a problem that the distance from guide to cylinder is too far. It is a main reason why 249 muzzle velocity is only around 285~290fps with the bundle spring of SP100~110.

 

Here comes a option spring guide for Star M249

 

topgunshop_971.jpg

 

phx_spring_guide_03.jpg

 

As you see the comparison shot with the normal spring guide, it's quite thick enough to press the spring just like normal Marui gearboxes. :)

 

I believe the item will be sold in the U.S. soon. The price of the guide in South Korea is estimated as "43 USD". (I believe it will become much cheaper in overseas.)

Edited by crazy4beat
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phx_spring_guide_03.jpg

 

Good find.

 

Couldn't you also just press the spring guide further into the mechbox, so that the latch catches on the back of the spring guide 'plug'? I just tried it on my gun and it shot fine for the 60 or so rounds I tried it. Is that a no-no?

Edited by Wupjak
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Good find. 

 

Couldn't you also just press the spring guide further into the mechbox, so that the latch catches on the back of the spring guide 'plug'?  I just tried it on my gun and it shot fine for the 60 or so rounds I tried it.  Is that a no-no?

 

I want to say, "No". Because the guide won't be stuck into the gearbox, and slightly moving back and forth or up & down inside of the gearbox. Then, the piston can be derailed and #3 gear because the guide can't be horizontal to piston's reciprocating motion. Everyone may thought the spring pushes the guide back fully to the gearbox, but when the piston is release to forward, the spring temporarily moving forward with the piston, and the guide can possibly derailed.

 

But it's just a theory. :P You can see the inside of the gearbox and check them out because it's transparent!

Edited by crazy4beat
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I want to say, "No". Because the guide won't be stuck into the gearbox, and slightly moving back and forth or up & down inside of the gearbox. Then, the piston can be derailed and #3 gear because the guide can't be horizontal to piston's reciprocating motion. Everyone may thought the spring pushes the guide back fully to the gearbox, but when the piston is release to forward, the spring temporarily moving forward with the piston, and the guide can possibly derailed.

 

But it's just a theory.  :P You can see the inside of the gearbox and check them out because it's transparent!

I believe I covered this quite thoroughly earlier in the thread: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=564854

 

And there's more on the next page at least.

 

There is no harm in using the level two position. I've put 3000 rounds through at least with mine in L2 so far with no issues at all.

Edited by staticzero
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Hello to everyone!

 

I have a little problem with my STAR m249 which i hope you guys can help me with.

 

 

STOCK configuration + stronger spring in L1 position:

When i shoot with my STAR m249 in my room (about 22˙C) i have no problem at all. It feeds ok, cycles normally, and fps is ok.

 

 

 

But when i went on the filed two/three weeks ago i had a little problem.

 

 

I took it out of the car and tested the range. It fired perfectly, just needed a bit of hop adjustment.

Did a few more bursts with hop set and left it by the car. It was about 0˙C outside.

 

After a few minutes in the cold i wanted to fire a few more bursts but it wouldn't put out any BB's, or they would come out 2-3 at the time with no more than 5m range.

 

After about 30 rounds/cycles it started to fire normal again.

I reduced the hop a bit (tought that might jam the path), but then a few minutes later i picked it up again and it happened all over again.

When the mechanism cooled down i had the same problem all over again.

 

 

 

I tought that piston o-ring might be the problem so 1 week later i installed:

 

 

- prometheus hard type hop bucking (tryed guarder both type, marui, CA - got too much fps loss on all of them)

- guarder stainless cylinder

- guarder alu piston head

- marui piston o-ring

- guarder V2 spring guide

 

 

the seal between the cylinder, cylinder head and piston head is perfect.

 

When i put it all together it fired normally. I placed the spring guide in L2 position.

Then i put it in the cold room (about 10˙C) for a few hours to cool it down and the same thing happened again.

 

First 30-50 rounds had no power and would now and then come out 2-3 at once. Again after first 30-50 rounds m249 started to fire normal again.

I used 8,4 and 9,6 2400 battery, both performing as they should with stronger spring.

 

 

Any ideas? Have any of you guys had similar problems with this or any other AEG in the cold weather?

 

Deki

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Can't help you with a solution, but the workaround is so eloquent: shoot lots. :D

 

Maybe your SAW is giving you some gentle prodding to let her unleash her wrath. Eh. Me, I wouldn't consider that a "problem" - I'd consider that a "reminder". ;)

Edited by Hillslam
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Never having played in 0 degree weather, I can't help you directly from experience. However, it sounds as if you're getting a pretty severe compression problem.

 

If the o-ring(s) and/or lube are so cold that they will not make a proper seal, it could explain the gun chambering round after round and not expelling them until friction warms the parts sufficiently enough to boot them from the barrel, if only to 5 meters or so. Easiest analogy is rubbing your hands together to warm them. Obviously lube enters in, so it's not the best analogy, but you get the picture.

 

That /might/ explain your issue. I've heard conflicting stories of o-rings and lube freezing or not freezing. Sounds as if that might be the case here though.

Edited by Wupjak
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