Wupjak Posted January 19, 2006 Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 Deka (sic), try pushing the gearbox further in. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If the gearbox is mounted properly, there are two screws on the left side of the receiver that hold the gearbox in the correct position. Did you mean the spring guide, Gundrosen? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 19, 2006 Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 If the gearbox is mounted properly, there are two screws on the left side of the receiver that hold the gearbox in the correct position. Did you mean the spring guide, Gundrosen? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I meant the reciever, just didnt remember the screws. When I was fixing my weapon it shot like that, but the the reciever wasnt pushed enough in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 19, 2006 Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 My M249 fitted with bullets and CA heatshield: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scoped.In Posted January 19, 2006 Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 just to clarify, you used a Marui MP5 mount base for the rail on the feed cover? was it modified at all? great looking SAW btw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spukky Posted January 20, 2006 Report Share Posted January 20, 2006 Hello, I have a small question. Are their differences between the Para and MKII version besides the looks? The MKII is longer right? But does this make a difference while shooting? Is their anything else I should know before ordering one of the two? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted January 20, 2006 Report Share Posted January 20, 2006 Thats a strange problem you have there. I've been playing with mine all winter and have'nt had anything like that happen. Check the wiring, maybe you have a loose contact or a damaged wire somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 20, 2006 Report Share Posted January 20, 2006 just to clarify, you used a Marui MP5 mount base for the rail on the feed cover? was it modified at all? great looking SAW btw. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That is correct. I had to modify the mount quite a bit, if you take a look at one you'll see what you need to remove. And I drilled three holes in my feedtray cover. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scoped.In Posted January 20, 2006 Report Share Posted January 20, 2006 ok thanks. thats exactly what i needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flange! Posted January 20, 2006 Report Share Posted January 20, 2006 I just added a rail to my star m249. I used the Marui mp5/g3 low rise scope mount. It is a three piece mount. the rail with little legs, and two side panels that reach to the receiver attachment points on the mp5. If you take off the two side panels (which are loose separate parts) the rail part fits perfectly on the cover of the M249. Four holes will need to be drilled. The two front ones will be able to take a nut. I used nyloc nuts so they wont come loose, and as large a washer as would fit to distribute the load on the plastic cover. The back holes will bee to close to the sides to get a nut on so I epoxied them in. It works out to be a very solid, cheap, easy, and nice looking way of adding a rail to the Star. I'll post a piccy when I figure out how. Later, Flange! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 20, 2006 Report Share Posted January 20, 2006 I just added a rail to my star m249. I used the Marui mp5/g3 low rise scope mount. It is a three piece mount. the rail with little legs, and two side panels that reach to the receiver attachment points on the mp5. If you take off the two side panels (which are loose separate parts) the rail part fits perfectly on the cover of the M249. Four holes will need to be drilled. The two front ones will be able to take a nut. I used nyloc nuts so they wont come loose, and as large a washer as would fit to distribute the load on the plastic cover. The back holes will bee to close to the sides to get a nut on so I epoxied them in. It works out to be a very solid, cheap, easy, and nice looking way of adding a rail to the Star. I'll post a piccy when I figure out how. Later, Flange! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If you watch a few pages back you will see pics of how I did the same thing I think that is the best way to add rails to your M249 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 Update - some of you guys who wanted to/needed to replace the stock hop up bucking with a Guarder, Systema, etc. may notice a marked loss in FPS as staticzero and others reported. I applied teflon tape to my inner/bucking and saw a very sizeable velocity jump that takes us beyond forum rules with the spring I use. Particulars here: http://p3.forumforfree.com/here-vp3908-taskforce20.html#3908 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spukky Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 Hello, I have a small question. Are their differences between the Para and MKII version besides the looks? The MKII is longer right? But does this make a difference while shooting? Is their anything else I should know before ordering one of the two? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flange! Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 Sorry Gundrosen, your post gave me the idea, but when you said you needed to modify the mount quite a bit, I got the impression you were doing something completely different than I. I didn't need to break out the Dremel at all for this mod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 (edited) Hello, I have a small question. Are their differences between the Para and MKII version besides the looks? The MKII is longer right? But does this make a difference while shooting? Is their anything else I should know before ordering one of the two? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It's mostly preference. Yes, the MkII is longer. The two primary differences are in inner barrel length and the construction of the stock. Go with what you prefer, you can't really go wrong. Edited January 21, 2006 by Wupjak Quote Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted January 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 Update - some of you guys who wanted to/needed to replace the stock hop up bucking with a Guarder, Systema, etc. may notice a marked loss in FPS as staticzero and others reported. I applied teflon tape to my inner/bucking and saw a very sizeable velocity jump that takes us beyond forum rules with the spring I use. Particulars here: http://p3.forumforfree.com/here-vp3908-taskforce20.html#3908 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yep, I tried the same thing a while back with a Guarder bucking and found that with the teflon tape in place I saw similar FPS results as with the stock bucking. It seems to be an acceptable solution to the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 (edited) Sorry Gundrosen, your post gave me the idea, but when you said you needed to modify the mount quite a bit, I got the impression you were doing something completely different than I. I didn't need to break out the Dremel at all for this mod. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No need to be sorry You didnt dremel out anything? Did you use a standard marui mount? I "had" to dremel of the "legs" on the mount for it to fit perfectly. More pics of me in action with my M249: Edited January 21, 2006 by Gundrosen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 For some stupid reason you can only edit your post once, so here are the images: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aidan Posted January 21, 2006 Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 pretty cool, I love just looking at those things, as will never have the funds to get one. lucky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 Hello to everyone! I have a little problem with my STAR m249 which i hope you guys can help me with. STOCK configuration + stronger spring in L1 position: When i shoot with my STAR m249 in my room (about 22˙C) i have no problem at all. It feeds ok, cycles normally, and fps is ok. But when i went on the filed two/three weeks ago i had a little problem. I took it out of the car and tested the range. It fired perfectly, just needed a bit of hop adjustment. Did a few more bursts with hop set and left it by the car. It was about 0˙C outside. After a few minutes in the cold i wanted to fire a few more bursts but it wouldn't put out any BB's, or they would come out 2-3 at the time with no more than 5m range. After about 30 rounds/cycles it started to fire normal again. I reduced the hop a bit (tought that might jam the path), but then a few minutes later i picked it up again and it happened all over again. When the mechanism cooled down i had the same problem all over again. I tought that piston o-ring might be the problem so 1 week later i installed: - prometheus hard type hop bucking (tryed guarder both type, marui, CA - got too much fps loss on all of them) - guarder stainless cylinder - guarder alu piston head - marui piston o-ring - guarder V2 spring guide the seal between the cylinder, cylinder head and piston head is perfect. When i put it all together it fired normally. I placed the spring guide in L2 position. Then i put it in the cold room (about 10˙C) for a few hours to cool it down and the same thing happened again. First 30-50 rounds had no power and would now and then come out 2-3 at once. Again after first 30-50 rounds m249 started to fire normal again. I used 8,4 and 9,6 2400 battery, both performing as they should with stronger spring. Any ideas? Have any of you guys had similar problems with this or any other AEG in the cold weather? Deki <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have this problem as well. My m249 drops the first 10-15 rounds about 3 metres until it warms up then fires fine. I get this at room temperature and in the cold. Two weeks ago skirmishing the problem kept occurng. If I kept firing very frequently the problem didnt occur, but leave it for aobut 2 minutes and it happens again. I replaced the piston and O-ring which are now a perfect fit but the problem is still there. I took it skirmishing again today and the exact same thing happened (temerature about 0-4 degrees throughtout the day). Furthermore the only other person to have a star m249 on sight (a para version, mine is a mk2) had the same problem. It is really very annoying because when ambushing an enemy if your first rounds dont go where you want they either get in cover quick or light you up. Anyone have any insights? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Angry Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 I had my MkII outside for the first time yesterday playing with some friends in a bit of wood at a mates farm. I was laid down by a tree with the bipod out when I took a lot of incoming fire. This apparently managed to take out the blade inside the front sight, as its now missing. Obviously this is a freak happening but you all may want to keep it in mind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 I had my MkII outside for the first time yesterday playing with some friends in a bit of wood at a mates farm. I was laid down by a tree with the bipod out when I took a lot of incoming fire. This apparently managed to take out the blade inside the front sight, as its now missing. Obviously this is a freak happening but you all may want to keep it in mind. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You should think it would be solid enough to take a few shots on the sight, but guess not. I lost my gas collar a few games back(well it broke in half when I stumbled in something and landed with the barrel in the dirt) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 23, 2006 Report Share Posted January 23, 2006 I have this problem as well. My m249 drops the first 10-15 rounds about 3 metres until it warms up then fires fine. I get this at room temperature and in the cold. Two weeks ago skirmishing the problem kept occurng. If I kept firing very frequently the problem didnt occur, but leave it for aobut 2 minutes and it happens again. I replaced the piston and O-ring which are now a perfect fit but the problem is still there. I took it skirmishing again today and the exact same thing happened (temerature about 0-4 degrees throughtout the day). Furthermore the only other person to have a star m249 on sight (a para version, mine is a mk2) had the same problem. It is really very annoying because when ambushing an enemy if your first rounds dont go where you want they either get in cover quick or light you up. Anyone have any insights? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Anyone? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 23, 2006 Report Share Posted January 23, 2006 Never having played in 0 degree weather, I can't help you directly from experience. However, it sounds as if you're getting a pretty severe compression problem. If the o-ring(s) and/or lube are so cold that they will not make a proper seal, it could explain the gun chambering round after round and not expelling them until friction warms the parts sufficiently enough to boot them from the barrel, if only to 5 meters or so. Easiest analogy is rubbing your hands together to warm them. Obviously lube enters in, so it's not the best analogy, but you get the picture. That /might/ explain your issue. I've heard conflicting stories of o-rings and lube freezing or not freezing. Sounds as if that might be the case here though. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 23, 2006 Report Share Posted January 23, 2006 (edited) I replaced the piston and O-ring which are now a perfect fit but the problem is still there. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I get this at room temperature and in the cold<{POST_SNAPBACK}> Edited January 23, 2006 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 23, 2006 Report Share Posted January 23, 2006 my bad. I did not see the second quoted statement. wasn't trying to be a smartarse, just quoting something that might have helped. I noticed this in the cold, at night (approximately 40 degrees F) and I tried to figure out the source when I had my piston and cylinder in my hand when the mechbox was apart. I took the piston and put it in the cylinder, then covered the brass nozzle with my finger and replicated the piston moving in the cylinder. I found that I'd get no compression for several strokes of the piston in there. Then, for some unknown reason, the o-ring would 'catch' for lack of a better word and form a perfect seal. This was inside at approximately 60 degrees F. So, short answer, I don't know. In my case, I suspect the white grease and/or the o-ring is/are cold. If your room temp was warmer than 60, I don't know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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