Guinness Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 (edited) I have that with rails. Beautiful gun, ain't it? Yes, yes she is So you have the shorty .45 eh? I have seen the metal slide for that, have they made a frame yet? -G Edited November 6, 2006 by Guinness Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 The kit isn't out yet. That's why I said "I'll be..." A plastic WA is usually 200$ Alu frame and slide 280$ Steel chamber and barrel 80$ Link to post Share on other sites
1911 Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 So a stock WA gun is about 240 and is plastic. Then you have to spend like 100-150 more for metal? Damn talk about BMW's in the airsoft world. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Tell me about it... 100-150 for just the slide, frame and slide kit cost up 300-400. The cheapest way is to buy infinity, it comes with a metal frame/lower receiver. Get a metal slide, barrel and youre ready to go. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 So a stock WA gun is about 240 and is plastic. Then you have to spend like 100-150 more for metal? Damn talk about BMW's in the airsoft world. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I thought you might have realised that already. My stock WA's are higher than 240 that's for sure, and you have to spend 300 odd at least, if you want a metal kit. Though tbh I'd rather take my one upgraded WA 1911 into battle than any of my other guns. I trust my WA more than my other guns, and that's saying something. hbc. Link to post Share on other sites
nordom Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 So a stock WA gun is about 240 and is plastic. Then you have to spend like 100-150 more for metal? Damn talk about BMW's in the airsoft world. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> well, i payed about 400 for my para's metal conversion. And it's not the limit. recently, i've seen a steel (not Al or Zn alloy, but steel) conversion kit for m1911's for about 800USD at uncompany. There's really no limit for the final cost of WA blowback. BTW,i've also seen the single steel chassis for 575 usd. (http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=8286) Link to post Share on other sites
USNDOC Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Heh. Guiness, would you be jealous if I told you mine was real steel? Link to post Share on other sites
Guinness Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 (edited) Heh. Guiness, would you be jealous if I told you mine was real steel? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Not at all Sir! But I would respond in kind- "Beautiful gun, ain't it?" I do have one question- I have seen the SW1911Sc at my local gun shop and on the S&W site, Smith & Wesson SW1911Sc But I have not seen it with rails- what is that model? Because I'm envisioning a 'Shorty .45' frame with the S&W trademarked slide Slainte! -G Edited November 6, 2006 by Guinness Link to post Share on other sites
Rcas Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Bought used, added the grips today Link to post Share on other sites
USNDOC Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Bought used, added the grips today EXCELLENT choice! Link to post Share on other sites
USNDOC Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Not at all Sir! But I would respond in kind- "Beautiful gun, ain't it?" I do have one question- I have seen the SW1911Sc at my local gun shop and on the S&W site, Smith & Wesson SW1911Sc But I have not seen it with rails- what is that model? Because I'm envisioning a 'Shorty .45' frame with the S&W trademarked slide Slainte! -G <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'll check tonight; I usually check this site at work. I'll try to get some pics up as well. As for the model, it's just an S&W 1911...I think it's a very new model. I haven't seen many pictures of it online, meself. Link to post Share on other sites
Marine47 Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Everyones talking about upgrading WA's but no ones said anything about how they're actually really good stock too. Great plastic bodies convince me that spending $280+ on metal ones isn't worth it. I have the money...but I just don't see how it's worth it.. Link to post Share on other sites
phoenix360mute Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 it depends what you want out of a gun tho, for me, i like higher pressure gasses, like green, and the clicks and clacks of the meal, also the cold to the touch feel that only metal can bring, but thats just me, other people prefer what they can do to the metal, like customise it and stuff, also the more available style of metal slides and stuff ect Link to post Share on other sites
Marine47 Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 That's true, i love that sound of metal too, ahhhhh no i cant buy a kit lol. I have a quick question because you mentioned green gas. My Kimber is claimed to be preupraded for green gas, does that sound right? How could I tell if it has that upgrade or not? I'm using green gas for now and so far (2 weeks) it's been fine, but yea, it's only had a few hundred shots through it. Link to post Share on other sites
phoenix360mute Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 they say that they upgrade springs ect in it, to make the shock on the slide stop and slide notch a little less, but even with a metal slide, and RS springs,my custom guns still get slight damage, its un avvoidable, so just use it till it breaks, then go metal, fun for fun i say Link to post Share on other sites
n00b3r Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Um...you know that a stronger spring will put MORE pressure/force/wear on the slide stop/notch right? Link to post Share on other sites
phoenix360mute Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 but it reduces the backwards momentum of the slide, thus increasing the life expectancy Link to post Share on other sites
n00b3r Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 While putting more stress on the front section of the slide during the first stage of blowback, and more stress on the BBU/Hop unit when the slide slams home... Link to post Share on other sites
Marine47 Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 so how do you prevent that? Link to post Share on other sites
n00b3r Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 (edited) Just leave it alone..... SCW2s are GG ready out of the box. Edited November 7, 2006 by n00b3r Link to post Share on other sites
1911 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 ...but even with a metal slide, and RS springs,.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You use Real Steel recoil spring for your airsoft gun?? Spring for which caliber ammo that you use? Marine47: Most of my WAs are stock, i never use HFC134, only greengas. Only 1 had a broken slide, that was an old magna. So i think most people here already realise how dependable WAs are, its just a place to discuss what mods are done. I think whoever sells you the Kimber is lying, claiming that its been upgraded to handle greengas. Stock WA(newer version) are usually strong enough to handle green up to a certain period of time. I'm almost 100% sure that it will eventually break, even tho i've had some of my WA for almost 2 years with nothing but green, and its still fine I wouldnt suggest using too strong of a spring tho. Recoil spring plays a HUGE role in how your gun behaves (airsoft and RS), it has its ratings, not as simple as swaping it as you like. Noob3r is right, it'll add more stress rather than ease the impact. Link to post Share on other sites
n00b3r Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 w00t! Superior American education wins! j/k. Marine: If you want to be REALLY sure that the slide wont break in two years, you could always fashion a flow restricter from an old CC. Link to post Share on other sites
1911 Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Marine: If you want to be REALLY sure that the slide wont break in two years, you could always fashion a flow restricter from an old CC. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Whats the fun in that.... How about those shok buff?? Forgot what its called.... I've seen RS user use them on the guide rod. Have you tried that? I saw clarence lai use em too, but never tried them myself. Link to post Share on other sites
sturgis Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 just got a call from my father, telling he picked up a parcel from the statesfrom the postman... my 3rd WA 1911 has arrived ! woot! granted it'll need a little work and some elbow grease, but i'm exited nevertheless after work i shall be able to get my grubby hands on it Link to post Share on other sites
nordom Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 BTW, what greases will you recomend for metal kit? i've heard, that silicon spray is no good for it. Link to post Share on other sites
Sao Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 I've used silicone spray, silicone grease, silicone shock oil for Rc buggies and silicone diff oil (really gloopy) kinda inbetween oil and grease, great on the slide rails. I've also in the past used random car greases for slides when low on silicone Link to post Share on other sites
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