1911 Picture Thread

[canizzle]

Hey just making sure:

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...t_WA%20Handguns

 

The slide and barrel is metal right?

 

Because it says made of ABS but usually SV's have metal?

[TheLair]

Noooooo its not metal. The frame may be, Im not sure, but Im positive the slide isn't. The barrel probably is, as is all other WA 1911s

[christhesecond]

i got it glued perfectly in place. for me i would rather know it will stay there so i dont have to keep checking if it's still there. that's just me though, i'm quite obsessive compulsive about these things.

 

cheers

chris

[hardboiledcop]

For me it was never the gas used that wore down the slidenotch, it's releasing the slide using the slidecatch without pulling the slide back every so slightly first.

 

I always do that, especially with my Raptor, since the slide is pretty much irreplaceable.

 

If I were you, just ensure you do that when firing outside of a game situation, if it wears down entirely then you can always just replace the slide, since you have a kimber, I should think any kimber slide would fit.. Thats the wonder of WA's, everything is replaceable, you just need the dough.

 

I only ever use 134a in stock WA's you dont get enough extra kick with green to warrant the risk.. with a metal kit however running green in a WA is the most fun I've ever had with GBB's.

[Axel Foley]

I'm no gbb expert...sorry, i'd just try to lube it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Me neither, that´s why I am asking for help

I´ve already tried lubing, but thanks for your help

 

I don´t want to spam, so here is another (crappy) pic.

 

[hitmanNo2]

Noooooo its not metal. The frame may be, Im not sure, but Im positive the slide isn't. The barrel probably is, as is all other WA 1911s

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The frames plastic.

Edited November 8, 2006 by hitmanNo2

[hardboiledcop]

my raptor used to not lock back.. or rather it would only lock back when fired one off (ie not after emptying 1 mag.

 

After taking her down and lubing her completely, she now works like a dream, It's all a bit of blur since I cant really remember what turned out to be the exact cause, possibly ask Phoenix360mute, I spoke with him about it quite a bit.

 

the only changes that have been made to the gun since the problem (other than constant shooting to wear down the slide/frame where they meet, making the travel more smooth) is a stronger recoil spring, and replacing the little spring between slide catch and safety.

 

I shouldnt think either of them is the problem, however it could be a case that your slidecatch isnt flicking up freely.

 

Take the slide off and put a mag into the frame, see whether the slidecatch rises smoothly, for me, it was because the spring in the tube between the thumb safety and slidecatch was far too strong (if your safety is particularly tough this might be the problem, otherwise its something else)

 

cheers, hbc.

[christhesecond]

For me it was never the gas used that wore down the slidenotch, it's releasing the slide using the slidecatch without pulling the slide back every so slightly first.

 

I always do that, especially with my Raptor, since the slide is pretty much irreplaceable.

 

If I were you, just ensure you do that when firing outside of a game situation, if it wears down entirely then you can always just replace the slide, since you have a kimber, I should think any kimber slide would fit.. Thats the wonder of WA's, everything is replaceable, you just need the dough.

 

I only ever use 134a in stock WA's you dont get enough extra kick with green to warrant the risk.. with a metal kit however running green in a WA is the most fun I've ever had with GBB's.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

hmm

the trouble is is that the wear to the slide notch only occurs when firing. i do tend to pull the slide back when releasing the slide catch (good habits and all that )

but ive literally put 2 mags through it and the first time there was a tiny amount shaved off, then the second mag properly took a shaving off, i.e. there was a small shaving hanging off the slide notch, needless to say i was not overjoyed to see such things to my new sex pistol.

 

thanks for all your help btw, its really appreciated. anything else you can think it could be?

 

cheers

chris

[hardboiledcop]

sry dp.

 

@ christhesecond

 

use 134a with stock WA's, talks of it being wimpy are lies, my svi experts used to push 290 with hefty kick using 134a, new kimber slides go for around 110 dollars, I'd say just use 134a in it, and if the slide catch gives up the ghost then buy a new slide.

 

when the slidenotch on my wa wore down I sanded it, I understand it may be a little more difficult to do with abs, so if it actually effecting the ability of the slide to lock back, id just ensure you use 134a from now on...

 

or alternatively, fire the gun with green, with your thumb on the slidecatch, then you can be sure to not have any issues with wear

Edited November 8, 2006 by hardboiledcop

[sturgis]

 

sneakpeek of my finally finished custom 1911, bringing a WW1 1911 pistol to modern standards

[christhesecond]

sry dp.

 

@ christhesecond

 

use 134a with stock WA's, talks of it being wimpy are lies, my svi experts used to push 290 with hefty kick using 134a, new kimber slides go for around 110 dollars, I'd say just use 134a in it, and if the slide catch gives up the ghost then buy a new slide.

 

when the slidenotch on my wa wore down I sanded it, I understand it may be a little more difficult to do with abs, so if it actually effecting the ability of the slide to lock back, id just ensure you use 134a from now on...

 

or alternatively, fire the gun with green, with your thumb on the slidecatch, then you can be sure to not have any issues with wear

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

some very good points, i think what i'll do is just get some 134a, seems the simplest option atm.

if the problem still persists i'll have a look at the spring fro the catch. im gonna be 100% honest now and say i cant get the slide off as i cant get the slide catch out.

the pic in the manual says push it to the right then take it out but i cant get the bugger out. (i was really hoping i could get it out myself without having to bring it up in a forum)

incase you hadn't guessed this is my first 1911, my trouble is my experience with gbb's has lead to me having a phobia of taking them apart.

 

edit: scratch what i said about what i think the problem is, it makes no sense. its late, tahts my excuse anyway.

 

when you say new kimber slides do you mean stock abs ones?

 

cheers

chris

Edited November 8, 2006 by christhesecond

[n00b3r]

Tell me that is NOT a blue frame...

[hardboiledcop]

the idea of the spring being too strong was directed at the guy with the WE which wouldnt lock back.

 

Im afraid your troubles are most likely just because wa 1911's dont particularly like green and they arent built to withstand the extra power green gas gives.

 

if the slidecatch is going up prematurely this could be a separate issue, however, as it is a well documented problem with airsoft 1911's, I think you should run some 134a through it before trying anything else.

 

Oh, and to remove the slide simply

 

1. remove the magazine

2. pull the slide back partially so the slidecatch lines up with the smaller notch in the slide

3. push the slidecatch through from the other side and pull it out

4. push the slide forward and it will come straight off

 

to get it back on it just the reverse of getting it off.

 

best to get to know the weapon before you try and troubleshooting, its always good to be able to strip your gun, but for the time being stick to stripping it into two pieces, dont try and go any further.. spray a small amount of silicon oil into the slide while youve got it open, then slap it shut and work it about a bit.

 

I really do think that your only problem is using too high power gas in high temperatures (I forget which country your in as I type this )

 

Oh, and 110 dollars or thereabouts will buy an aluminium kimber slide, which will wear down far slower, and feels alot nicer..

 

There is a guide to taking down WA 1911's to their constituent parts in the technical discussion section, I was useless at taking apart 1911s until I had the hammer stick in one of my guns, after going through it once Im now certain I could take one apart and put it back together without any sort of guide, It is remarkably simple once you do it once.

 

But still, just take it down and reassemble, use 134a until you decide to get a metal kit or not, and enjoy the gun

Edited November 8, 2006 by hardboiledcop

[hardboiledcop]

Tell me that is NOT a blue frame...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Maybe it's the flash and it's darker in reality

[sturgis]

Tell me that is NOT a blue frame...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

that is NOT a blue frame...

 

 

 

actaully, in person it isn't that blue, it's mostly the flash, however i think it's supposed to replicate the blued finish on ye old 1911

[christhesecond]

if one things for sure, im gonna enjoy this little ######. especially if the scw3 hop up is all its cracked up to be.

 

thanks for your advice mate, it's been a great help. your only problem now is "whenever i have a problem, and don't know where to turn, i can always call................. the a-tea..... HBC team"

 

oh god i must be tired to write such drivel.

anyway

thanks again

 

chris

[hardboiledcop]

hah, I dont know nearly as much as Noob3r and the other 1911 regulars, i know enough to get by

 

the scw3 hopup works best with .25's and 134a, anything lighter and you won;t get a straight shot, just fyi

 

cheers, hbc.

[phoenix360mute]

and sturgis sucks at photo's, so it will turn out with odd colours

[hardboiledcop]

lol

 

give us a good photo, powerful white light and no flash

[sturgis]

and sturgis sucks at photo's, so it will turn out with odd colours

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

the hell i do lol, it's just that it is night and i had to do it with a cameraphone !

 

i'll be snapping some better pics with my digital camera during the daytime

[phoenix360mute]

you better, or you will be seeing the back of my hand

[hardboiledcop]

I dare you to reach 1000 posts before you go off to the land of nod

[sturgis]

I dare you to reach 1000 posts before you go off to the land of nod

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

who me??

 

edit: considering that might still be a fair few hours away, you might loose thise dare

Edited November 9, 2006 by sturgis

[phoenix360mute]

tis gonna be tricky, thats alot of postin

[1911]

Hey just making sure:

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...t_WA%20Handguns

 

The slide and barrel is metal right?

 

Because it says made of ABS but usually SV's have metal?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Slide and frame is ABS, except its barrel. Chamber is obviously plastic too. It doesnt have metal lower receiver like most infinity coz its a single stacker.