r.ocelot Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 (edited) Come to think of it, your hammer skeleton does look thinner. Was it from the hammer/sear set or the hammer/sear/firing pin/hammer strut set? Do you know if the sides of the v12 slide is clear anodized? There are a few scratches I want to get rid of, but if I have to remove the anodization, I'll just let it sit. Edited August 19, 2007 by r.ocelot Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Mine is from the hammer/sear set. Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 That's probably why. Mine's from the full set, which came out some time after full set IIRC. Link to post Share on other sites
Slash' Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Page not found <{POST_SNAPBACK}> O RLY? I can see them fine... :'( Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Now black and 2 tone time. Hope you'll like it. Link to post Share on other sites
caleso Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Hello chaps, I'm thinking of buying a pair of v12s from boomarms, I want to go the whole hog and I'm thinking about buying these grips http://cgi.ebay.com/Crimson-Trace-LG404P1-...VQQcmdZViewItem anyone had any experience of them before? thanks Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Crimson trace laser grips utilise quite powerful lasers, other than that, I'm sure they're fantastic. Just don't shine them in anybody's eyes -- Although, IMO, Springers need an old-school look (unless its a TRP or something), and so a pair of crossed-cannon grips would be the best choice in my eyes. Link to post Share on other sites
caleso Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 thanks for the advice mate Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Or some nice, gold Kirins Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 (edited) Or some nice, gold Kirins <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Got a quote for the guilding yet? - edit - in other news, sadly I won't be able to put my Raptor grips on the CDP II.. .. because I just bought my Raptor II back Edited August 19, 2007 by hardboiledcop Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 My quote was $600 for the entire gun......might be cheaper to anodize it gold instead. Link to post Share on other sites
junior Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Crimson trace laser grips utilise quite powerful lasers, other than that, I'm sure they're fantastic. Just don't shine them in anybody's eyes <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Has anyone tried to fit a pair on a WA? Awfully expensive to buy and realize they can't fit or even be fitted because of some odd reason. Link to post Share on other sites
caleso Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 (edited) Has anyone tried to fit a pair on a WA? Awfully expensive to buy and realize they can't fit or even be fitted because of some odd reason. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> thats what I was hoping to get some feedback on lol, I have a vision of dual v12s with crimson grips on Edited August 19, 2007 by caleso Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 They fit 1911's, and the WA is 100% accurate and accepts all other grips intended for use on 1911's. So that's a definite yes. Link to post Share on other sites
Soba Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 thats what I was hoping to get some feedback on lol, I have a vision of dual v12s with crimson grips on <{POST_SNAPBACK}> They fit perfect on at TM M9 but I can't help you out with how they fit on a WA. -Soba Link to post Share on other sites
caleso Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 thanks guys I think I'll take the plunge, will post pics in the future when everythings ready Link to post Share on other sites
Mobius Strip Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Do you know if the sides of the v12 slide is clear anodized? There are a few scratches I want to get rid of, but if I have to remove the anodization, I'll just let it sit. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No they are not. I have already refinished the grain effect on mine after I picked up a tiny burr on the slide stop notch. Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Awesome, thanks a lot. Just a question, how do you refinish the grain effect without turning it into the brushed steel finish? Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 They fit 1911's, and the WA is 100% accurate and accepts all other grips intended for use on 1911's. So that's a definite yes. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wouldn't say 100%. Sometimes the holes need a bit of filing. Link to post Share on other sites
Rcas Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 (edited) Sadly i have a problem with my WA TLE/RL 2 that i can't fix but i figure this thread is the best place for help. Halfway through the day yesterday it stopped firing correctly. It now fires, cycles and recocks but then nothing happens with i pull the trigger. Sometimes it needs to have the slide racked to fire again and sometimes it will do it after a few squeezes of the trigger almost like something isn't resetting. I'm not the most familiar with how WAs work back there so i'm stuck. Any help would be appreciated edit: upon further inspection with the grips off and removing the mag slowly after it doesn't fire i see that the part that moves down when the metal piece that sticks up out of the frame on the right side in front of the hammer is pushed down is getting stuck somehow and not resetting. I've already lubed the ###### out of it but its still doing it. Edited August 19, 2007 by Rcas Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Play around with your leaf spring. Link to post Share on other sites
Rcas Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 ya i've been playing with it all morning heres a pic of the part thats getting stuck sometimes Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 (edited) Yup, the disconnector is not coming back up. It's the middle leaf that you need to mess around with. Bend it in such a way that when the trigger it depressed and that part is down, the middle leaf spring is in contact with it. It's easier to work on if you remove the safeties and the grip safety. Edited August 19, 2007 by r.ocelot Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Sadly i have a problem with my WA TLE/RL 2 that i can't fix but i figure this thread is the best place for help. Halfway through the day yesterday it stopped firing correctly. It now fires, cycles and recocks but then nothing happens with i pull the trigger. Sometimes it needs to have the slide racked to fire again and sometimes it will do it after a few squeezes of the trigger almost like something isn't resetting. I'm not the most familiar with how WAs work back there so i'm stuck. Any help would be appreciated edit: upon further inspection with the grips off and removing the mag slowly after it doesn't fire i see that the part that moves down when the metal piece that sticks up out of the frame on the right side in front of the hammer is pushed down is getting stuck somehow and not resetting. I've already lubed the ###### out of it but its still doing it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Not quite sure what you are saying but I think you are referring to the disconnector. That piece is responsible for disconnecting the trigger if the slide isn't in battery. If it doesn't reset properly, it's probably due to a weak disconnector spring / sear spring prong which applies pressure to it. Try bending the prong. WA frame operation is pretty simple. Check this out for SCW2 disassembly and this for operation of the RS sear system which WA emulates. Link to post Share on other sites
Rcas Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 ya when i typed it i knew it was kinda hard to follow but couldn't think of any other way to word it since i didn't know the correct terms . But ya its the disconnect system and sometimes its getting stuck down. I"ll try bending it later Link to post Share on other sites
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