ED-SKaR Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Except...the trigger mech is overly complicated, and refuses to work with my GATE Merf 3.2 FET. Then you havn't understood how it works. Mine has a mosfet, albeit a simple one, and works perfectly. You wire the control circuit of the mosfet to the electrical contacts in the upper reciever, you don't go anywhere near the lower reciever/trigger mech, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RSM Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) Alternatively, with mosfets that use 2 signal wires you can the top contacts, take the lower contacts and tin the contact 'nubs' (they are just press fit pieces) and mod the lower contact 'box' so you have two lines that you can fit tiny bullet connectors to that connect to the signal wires. Edited April 12, 2014 by RSM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 That's a really odd way of doing it, every time you have to take the gun apart you'll have to play with disconnecting wires. I added a mini deans connector just by the motor so that I don't have to pull the motor tabs of every time I want to open the gun (I'll admit that is a design flaw) Any time the trigger contacts are connected, the circuit is made across the contacts in the upper receiver, anywhere you'd put contacts inside the trigger mech, you should just put them in the upper receiver. Why would you intentionally make your life harder than it needs to be? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RSM Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Well, I have a Trigger Master Fet that sits neatly above the barrel in the upper receiver, when I originally installed it I had the signal wires running to the upper trigger contacts. These would then be in contact with the lower trigger set contact bars, but as I found when I took the lower set apart, they little studs that come into contact with one another are only press fitted into holes in the contact bars. This to me seemed to be a weakness as you had 6 points where the electrical connectivity seemed to be poor - this was at least backed up by intermittent function on pulling the trigger with the mosfet installed on the upper contacts. I removed the upper contacts (improving the external appearance in my opinion), tinned the trigger studs and added in those wires which are cut to a length where they allow me to open the receiver as carelessly as I want and all that will happen at worse is they'll slip apart, but it has reduced the number of bottle necks for what is only going to be something like 0.2A of current. And in my opinion it's worth the 10 seconds extra 'hardship' on reassembly because one of the features the mosfet provides is smart rof e.g. semi auto runs at 100% motor speed for snappy shots (not that the L85 trigger aids this being as heavy as it is), but in full auto fire after the first cycle it drops the motor speed to a designated % such that it's within the RPM range given for the real thing. And the nice thing about the ICS L85 is that realistically, so little goes wrong if I am having to open it up I've got bigger concerns than two wires Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Then you havn't understood how it works. Mine has a mosfet, albeit a simple one, and works perfectly. You wire the control circuit of the mosfet to the electrical contacts in the upper reciever, you don't go anywhere near the lower reciever/trigger mech, I did that, and yet it refuses to work. I soldered the signal wires from the FET to two QD tabs for the upper trigger contacts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted April 13, 2014 Report Share Posted April 13, 2014 Then you have another issue, go fix it. What is the problem with it? I have to say that the only issue I've had with the trigger mech is the little plastic tab that breaks so you only get full auto. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex6714 Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 Not to get too off topic, but with all this talk of mosfets, am I doing something very wrong by running by ICS L85 on a 7.4v lipo stock? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tarnish Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 I run my G&G stock off 7.4v LiPos, makes no difference. Sent from my ST15i using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fatjock Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 I've been running my ICS L86 on 7.4 lipos for a couple of years, I suspect the L85 will be just as robust. There's a guy where I play's been running his on an 11.1 since he started using it, ICS makes things pretty solid (though I wouldn't go to the 11.1 extreme on mine). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 The reason to get a mosfet is that when the trigger contacts meet they can ark when you are using a higher discharge battery, this will damage and eventually melt the contacts (I've done this with 9.6 nicad batteries) the MOSFET uses a low voltage control circuit over the original contacts, and uses an electronic switch on the main voltage. ICS trigger contacts spring together, given how the trigger unit works, so arking is less of an issue. I've been running 7.4v lipo for a while in my L86, I've not yet got round to installing the FET I have for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex6714 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks. It's the first time I've started getting into understanding the insides of an AEG and I do really like the trigger contact mechanism and how it works. It's very difficult to block the trigger. More on topic, here she is at the moment (from the Bulpup thread). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Multicam_Pegasus Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) I saw this online and I love the EOTech look. Anyone know how it would fit? Do I need to change to a RIS panel on top? Edited May 21, 2014 by Multicam_Pegasus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kyrian_Zenda Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 You'd need a 19mm to 20mm converter rail. As far as I'm aware, they're somewhat difficult to get a hold of, you'll need to do some digging to find some. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) There's sections of 20mm rail that can be bolted straight on to the body, not sure if they're available for all models but that's what I've got on my ICS (rail section made by ICS themselves). Edited May 21, 2014 by CKinnerley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Multicam_Pegasus Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 There's sections of 20mm rail that can be bolt straight on, not sure if they're available for all models but that's what I've got on my ICS (rail section made by ICS themselves). after what You said It appears its ICS ML-28; Now to either try to find one or just a length of rail that will bolt up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex6714 Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Halfway there. Next, the RIS but I think I'll go for a different grip to the gripod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mightyjebus Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 seen a RS one the other day painted tan and had a tan AFG. might we worth considering that instead of grippod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex6714 Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Yeah, I was thinking of an AFG (didn't know they were called that) but in OD. Honestly, I am not really a fan of tan on weapons for some reason. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Thanks to you guys and this thread, I just picked up a second hand ARMY R85a1 for 40 quid. Hornbill RIS, flash hider and sight rail inbound, I'll get some pics up when she's done. I intend to short-stroke a full steel rack 18 tooth piston by 3 teeth to prevent PME, plus taking 3 teeth off the sector. SHS hi-torque and a rewire, mosfet and deans job and I reckon it should be a good one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Not too bad with an SRS - using it as an emergency optic for tomorrow's night game. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KingPandaswe Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 How is the quality on the VFC llm01 compared to the element one ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Element one is WAY better. Just don't leave batteries in it as I've had them go bonkers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steelfallenangel Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Thanks for the tip about the VFC LLM01. Planned on eventually getting one for my G36 (and maybe a L85 if I can flip this F2000). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rogue845 Posted August 14, 2014 Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Decided to do my own thing with my L85, got bored of the 'MOD issue' look. However, my options are severely limited when it come to the Stubby K: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 Holy jesus ELCAN's are massive 0_0. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.