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arivee

Yet another M4A1 clone...Improving the Gene Pool

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@Tommygun - Thanks for the info on the wobble.  I took some more pictures of the D ring portion of the barrel.  I looks like a solid connection to me, but then again I haven't taken this gun out onto the field and time will tell if, when and how any wobble would occur.

 

D Ring/upper receiver detail

 

site1036.JPG

 

Rear receiver view of outer barrel

 

site1037.JPG

 

D Ring close up

 

site1039.JPG

 

I tried taking off the allen screws on for the nozzle group but I either had one of my allen wrenches bigger or smaller for the screw that was in there. 

 

As for the stock - I got it off and...

 

site1040.JPG

 

End cap removed

 

site1042.JPG

 

Buffer tube removed

 

site1044.JPG

 

Save for removing and disassembling the mech box, this is as far as I am willing to go without proper guidance...

 

site1045.JPG

 

Cheers!

 

Yeah, those look great, it looks like it will be able to fit that stock I like :)

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That is the construction I was expecting. As you have said there is a solid socket that goes into the upper receiver help by the barrel nut(nut with star teeth). On the Marui this could come loose quite often causing the socket to wobble in the receiver. However, your gun is all metal so tightening it is not an issue unlike Marui plastic receivers.

Therefore, the most likely point of wobble may come from where the main portion of outer barrel is Allen bolted into this socket. It simply is not a robust method of attaching these parts together.

You also might want to have a look at the joining method where the foresight begins.

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oh ok nvm then

 

oh and by the way...running a 8.4v 1100 mah battery and 30 amp discharge rate would last how long on the aim m4? and does the 8.4 pull the gun well enough?

 

or would it be a priority to get a 9.6v first instead?

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the outter barrel is different with CA and TM, but the delta ring seems as same as CA, I have to try CA's foregrip on it once I got a chance

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AIM have changed their recommendation to use 9.6v batter. I would skip the 8.4 all together. If you read the other AIM thread I'd mention about my problem with 8.4 battery and it blown the fuse.

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First off - I didnt catch Tommygun's earlier comment on the body - but to clarify - it is ABS and NOT metal.

 

Secondly - I have been able to skirmish with this rifle and I am satisfied at how it has performed and I say this conditionally.

 

Prior to use I was checking the hop up and pushed it to both extremes and the BBs acted accordingly, they went up and down depending on which extreme the hop up was at. I was able to get a straight path (or at least I thought it was straight).

 

I really dont know how to describe how a skirmish went - I got shot, I shot someone, my team got wiped out and we wiped out another team...thats as far as a description I can give of what happened - so if you have a better way to structure this so I can describe, just ask.

 

Here is the conditional part - of the seven or so scenarios I played with the C3 crew (c3airsoft.com) - I was able to fully participate in three - because my batteries kept dying on me.

 

I believe there are three possible extenuating circumstances:

 

1. As mentioned above by Allizard - the manufacturer (in airsoftmart's forum here on arnies) has suggested that a 9.6 volt may be needed for this gun. Of the three skirmishes that I was able to fully participate in I was using freshly charged 8.4 1100 mAh KAN batteries (by UTG). At the end of each skirmish the batteries couldnt drive the mech box (solenoid like sound on trigger pull). You can actually hear the sound deteriorate, from a healthy *wapak* (mech box cycling sound is homogenous) to a *weeepak* (on sound analysis the 'weee-' portion I think is the portion where the mech box is pulling the spring.

 

2. It was cold out - the batteries could have drained faster than normal. I was using mini type batteries on a sunny but windy (like a 42F/5C that feels like 33F/1C with wind chill). I was actually using the newly charged batteries to warm my fingers.

 

3. I was using a nicd trickle charger - I could have been cooking my batteries and shortcharging them. The amp gauge on the charger was reading 2amps charging - so by the laws of physics and chemodynamics - that means it needs (1.1amps batt capacity/2 amps charge amp = 0.55 hours of charging or roughly 33 minutes, but please somebody check my math) and I was charging in 15 minute intervals.

 

I've solved 1 and 3 by ordering 9.6v batts (1650 mAh using staticzero's suggestion on the UTG MP5 thread and a 959 super brain charger and hopefully it wont be as cold when I test again in probably two weeks.

 

I could have actually gone on to a fourth skirmish but I decided to see if the batteries can empty a full mag on full auto (in controlled burst or 2-4 seconds) - it did, at 8.4 volts it emptied the magazine and went on to fire a few more semi auto shots when I reloaded (thats the time I joined my last skirmish and promptly lost battery power).

 

At this point I would like to solicit opinions if the increased battery voltage is the solution or should I check the gearbox (something I am loathe to do only because I am no expert when it comes to these kinds of things) for shimming and such.

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have you ever tried out the utg mp5 v3.0 arivee? I dunno, i'm wondering if I should just upgrade my mp5 or sell it and save up for this aim m4.

 

I have a version 1 UTG MP5 I believe. The helpful guys over at shortyusa pointed out to me that if the claw mount is difficult to put on then its a v1 (has to do with the initial casting mold for the receiver I believe.

 

I have only two modes on this gun - full auto and safe. I really cant tell you what the next best thing to do. There will be some who will tell you to save up for a tm, some will say upgrade your mp5 (some will say dont do that until something is broken, which I believe what staticzero endorses - if youre going to spend money on your utg - and nothing's wrong with it - then you lose the utgs cost advantage.

 

Many more arguments and iterations of those arguments can be discussed, perhaps even more than this forum can permit. But let me leave you a few guide questions that MAY, IMHO, show you the path you want to go...

 

1 Are you a propeller head? Do you like/have the time/wish to/desire messing about with a mech box?

2. Do you strive to emulate a certain look? I.e. create a certain look, have the latest in gear

3. Is playing of greater import to you that you'd take a pistol and rush a heavily defended fortification?

 

That being said - I think the AIM strikes a middle ground where you are ready to go up - but want to take it in steps rather than by leaps and bounds. Again, many arguments and iterations can be said about my statements above, but I want to hedge it that all of this is In My Humble Opinion :)

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Yeah, I think I'm just going to stick with the mp5. I don't want to sell and then have to save up all over again for another gun. Plus, if I did get the AIM m4, i'd probably have to spend around $250 for magazines, and a scope+mount.

 

That again is certainly up to you.

 

Just to give you an idea:

 

I've spent a princely $45 (9.6 batt, a pair of picatinny rails and a scope mount) and plan to spend on another probably $130. $30 on a foregrip, $40 on a red dot scope. About $60 for a mag brand set of mid cap mags, for that money you'll probably get 2 hi caps on ebay but they are going to jingle around my mag pouch on my molle vest. All told $175 and no upgrading (dont want to and dont need it) - seems pretty reasonable for a 'geardoed' M4.

 

Then of course you can dispense with the mags and go get a box or c-mag, then that would bring up your total to probably $220~230. Then of course you can go crane stock and an an-peq box. What about...you get the idea...

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don't get me the wrong, I would love the AIM m4, but I don't have a job, and i have $0 right now. I only get $15 a week for lunch and I don't want to go 10 weeks without lunch. And thats just enough for the gun! I don't get how its only All total $175, the gun alone is $160.

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hey guys check this site out.

http://www.jiadyi.com/AIM-M4.htm#

 

I'm new in this forum. i usually go to airsoft retreat. well, i posted this up and no one seems to know about this. i'm talking about the metal one that they say is coming soon!!! yay! anyone know about this? (fps, price, etc.) O.o

 

Also, should i wait for the full metal one to come out or just stick with the plastic version?

 

Thanks so much guys! i hope i have a good time here from now on! :D

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@specialistCQB - Pardon me, I must have come across the wrong way :flamed: - what I'm meant was for the accessories alone you dont need to spend $250 - I didnt get that you meant including the gun!

 

Smart choice that you chose to eat! :)

 

@M4Maniac - Yup saw that site and announcement too. Someone from Jia Dyi (cherrychou) actually answered that question on airsoftmart's forum under the retailers section. When asked when the release of the metal version would be, the response was 'Dunno when will release.'. I think they are still trying to see how the ABS version will fare before getting into the metal bodies market.

 

I suspect the performance will be the same as the ABS version, pricing is unknown - I could say a million dollars but that just wouldnt be right :lol:

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First off - I didnt catch Tommygun's earlier comment on the body - but to clarify - it is ABS and NOT metal.

 

Secondly - I have been able to skirmish with this rifle and I am satisfied at how it has performed and I say this conditionally.

 

Prior to use I was checking the hop up and pushed it to both extremes and the BBs acted accordingly, they went up and down depending on which extreme the hop up was at.  I was able to get a straight path (or at least I thought it was straight).

 

I really dont know how to describe how a skirmish went - I got shot, I shot someone, my team got wiped out and we wiped out another team...thats as far as a description I can give of what happened - so if you have a better way to structure this so I can describe, just ask.

 

Here is the conditional part - of the seven or so scenarios I played with the C3 crew (c3airsoft.com) - I was able to fully participate in three - because my batteries kept dying on me.

 

I believe there are three possible extenuating circumstances:

 

1.  As mentioned above by Allizard - the manufacturer (in airsoftmart's forum here on arnies) has suggested that a 9.6 volt may be needed for this gun.  Of the three skirmishes that I was able to fully participate in I was using freshly charged 8.4 1100 mAh KAN batteries (by UTG).  At the end of each skirmish the batteries couldnt drive the mech box (solenoid like sound on trigger pull).  You can actually hear the sound deteriorate, from a healthy *wapak* (mech box cycling sound is homogenous) to a *weeepak* (on sound analysis the 'weee-' portion I think is the portion where the mech box is pulling the spring.

 

2.  It was cold out - the batteries could have drained faster than normal.  I was using mini type batteries on a sunny but windy (like a 42F/5C that feels like 33F/1C with wind chill).  I was actually using the newly charged batteries to warm my fingers.

 

3.  I was using a nicd trickle charger - I could have been cooking my batteries and shortcharging them.  The amp gauge on the charger was reading 2amps charging - so by the laws of physics and chemodynamics - that means it needs (1.1amps batt capacity/2 amps charge amp = 0.55 hours of charging or roughly 33 minutes, but please somebody check my math) and I was charging in 15 minute intervals.

 

I've solved 1 and 3 by ordering 9.6v batts (1650 mAh using staticzero's suggestion on the UTG MP5 thread and a 959 super brain charger and hopefully it wont be as cold when I test again in probably two weeks.

 

I could have actually gone on to a fourth skirmish but I decided to see if the batteries can empty a full mag on full auto (in controlled burst or 2-4 seconds) - it did, at 8.4 volts it emptied the magazine and went on to fire a few more semi auto shots when I reloaded (thats the time I joined my last skirmish and promptly lost battery power).

 

At this point I would like to solicit opinions if the increased battery voltage is the solution or should I check the gearbox (something I am loathe to do only because I am no expert when it comes to these kinds of things) for shimming and such.

 

How was the accuracy and range?

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thanks arivee! you were a GREAT help :D! if AIM is still wondering if their ABS gun is doing well to release their metal gun, they should wonder no more! I think their gun is FABULOUS. I'm gonna buy one from Evike any time now...

 

But do you think that the 9.6 volt batteries will be a good choice? i live in a very, very boring town, and not many people play airsoft... :( its just me, some of my friends, and a bunch of people older than me. way older... That means i wont be playing for a whole day at a time. 9.6v or just go with the regular 8.4 that they recommend at RedWolf and Evike?

 

Thanks a million everyone! :)

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@specialistCQB - accuracy was fine although I think I think I dialled the hop up a little too low, My shots start to go down about 40-50ft out (there was I point I dialled the hop up up and I was shooting BBs to the moon).I really need to fine tune the hop up adjustment on my rifle. It was a choice between depleting a batt at the range or playing out on the field.

 

I did the next best thing an compensated for the trajectory - I'd like to think I took somebody out at least 70 feed from my position but couldnt hit another no more than 40 feet down wind of me. I'm a lousy player - I wanted the better players to skirmish with the gun but with my battery situation I though i'd do that next time when I get my 9.6v batt.

 

As you can tell range is affected by the hop up - I think I was able to dial it close to good enough but I guess it needs a little bit more field time.

 

@M4Maniac - If you have an 8.4 at present try that first - I think part of the cause why I had such poor performance for my batts could have been the cold - the rest who were playing with me had either batt slings/an-peqs/etc (using bigger batts). Although there were those who were using mini batts like myself but driving UTGs (or <300fps springs.

 

If you have no batts - borrow from the guys you play with, Im pretty sure they would like to see how your new AEG performs. If you dont have any existing batts or your friends are afraid you will pwned :D them I will go with Staticzero's recommendation on the 9.6v nunchucks (I used mini tamiyas as I havent invested in the whole deans shebang) from cheapbatterypacks.com.

 

I know static recommended that for the UTG MP5, but if you want to wait, I can report on the batteries once they are here.

 

@tommygun - I have been told, and comparing it to the TM counterparts they are the same if not slightly better (my point of comparison is the TM XM733). I have been told that the 'star nut' (the nut on the D ring) helps solve the wobble problem.

 

But as I say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating - lets se how we will do skirmishing on an extended day. To be continued...

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Gee, thanks arivee! :P I'm not really gonna be playing for the whole day though. so I think I'll stick with the 8.4v batteries. Also, Im not much of a "winter person" so i don't think i'll be playing in the cold, much. There's this AWSOME forest preserve and if you go deep enough there's a BEAUTIFUL field my friends and I can play during the summer! :)

again, thanks arivee! (you made me feel so welcomed here! :D )

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Gee, thanks arivee! :P I'm not really gonna be playing for the whole day though. so I think I'll stick with the 8.4v batteries. Also, Im not much of a "winter person" so i don't think i'll be playing in the cold, much. There's this AWSOME forest preserve and if you go deep enough there's a BEAUTIFUL field my friends and I can play during the summer! :)

again, thanks arivee! (you made me feel so welcomed here!  :D )

 

No problem M4Maniac! I'm not the welcoming committee here but I guess thats everybody's job.

 

If you are in the US please be aware of local laws. I've had one person's horrible account of the police being called upon their supposed to be well screened, private lot.

 

As for the 8.4 batteries - you might want to rethink that - it will work fine but I don't think I need to repeat my experience above.

 

So now - MY WEE LITTLE BEASTIE IS ALIVE!

 

I got my 9.6v batt pack from cheapbatterypacks.com as recommended by staticzero on his UTG thread (9.6v, AA size, 1650mAh, nun chuck style) only this time I maintained use of the mini tamiya plugs (I ordered a superbrain 959 from them as I didn't want to risk using the nicd or the mains charger I had).

 

So far I have emptied three full mags (supposed to be of 300bbs per mag) on semi, full auto (in 1-3 second consecutive bursts) and mixed (alternating semi and full auto) use and the batteries are still sounding fine. I would go on and use it but I want to use the bbs for a skirmish and not lose them to just target practice.

 

As can be expected, with the increase in voltage comes the increase in ROF - I do not have a chrono on hand but the increase does seem substantial (judging by the sound of it).

 

As noted above the 9.6 after an estimated 900 rounds are still going strong. 2 full mags were finished after immediate charging and one full mag was used two days after the batteries were left in a cold basement.

 

As for fit - the nunchuck batteries slid in well into the handguard and no additional noticeable weight was felt on the rifle. Closing it up was fine as well no need to finagle with the wires, but at this point I just removed the top handguard rather than the bottom.

 

Here are the pics:

 

Length is not a problem with the fit

 

NUNCHUK.JPG

 

Removed the top handguard and just slipped the battery in

 

INHNDGRD.JPG

 

Side view with the hand guard closed - no bulging or straining

 

NOBULGE.JPG

 

As you can see I still have my fuse - on the 8.4v's when I noticed that when I depressed the trigger long enough (at a point that the motor cant crank the spring) I blew my fuse.

 

This time - since the motor kept cranking no blown fuse (I am attempting to find a solution to the fuse problem and will probably posting that in a different thread as I believe it will benefit others AEG owners as well), even when the battery got hot (when I was shooting full auto, it was minimally warm the other times). I felt the handgrip warm but I think it was from gripping the rifle too tightly and not the motor heating up.

 

One thing to note on all tests - I believe I ran out of BB before the spring unwound itself due to the lack of BBs in the reservoir - the mag consistently was left with 25bbs. Meaning I could have gone on shooting if I refilled the mag so as not to empty the reservoir. Next time I will probably do a BB count as well and see how many BBs it can spit out before rewinding.

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For posterity prior to mechbox dismantling...Rice It Up! Vroom! Vroom!

 

One Picatinny Rail Vertical Foregrip - $10

One Open box red do sight - $28

One riced up AIM M4A1 - Priceless :P

 

RICEITUP.JPG

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