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Yet another M4A1 clone...Improving the Gene Pool


arivee

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if any one wants to buy this gun go to www.airsoftscotland.com it is £129.98 it comes with the 300 round hi-cap mag and a 1100 mah 9.6v strikalite battery which should be good for 2000 plus rounds on a single charge the charge time is about 8.5 hours

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As addendum to my skirmish report - I mentioned earlier that I lent a squad mate my magazine when he ran dry during the game last Saturday.

 

The rifle was a CA M4RIS (I erlier mentioned it was a TM) which he claims is so picky when it comes to mags - it will NOT function with ICS mags and even be picky with TM mags. His comment on the mag was that it performed flawlessly with his rifle. I have to agree - the mag is solid and well built.

 

Thats all I have to report for now - I am currently boning up on the how tos in terms of taking mechboxes apart.

 

*Post 50! Yay!*

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1.  As mentioned above by Allizard - the manufacturer (in airsoftmart's forum here on arnies) has suggested that a 9.6 volt may be needed for this gun.  Of the three skirmishes that I was able to fully participate in I was using freshly charged 8.4 1100 mAh KAN batteries (by UTG).  At the end of each skirmish the batteries couldnt drive the mech box (solenoid like sound on trigger pull).

Does anyone know if you can use 9.6v batteries from radio controlled cars? I have plenty lying around, and they're only about $20 to purchase new from a hobby shop. I'm mainly interested in knowing if they would fit in the battery compartment. Also, is recharging an 8.4v right after being used good for it, or does it kill the battery's life?

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i just wanted to know because my gun fell and the upper body cracked in half and the barrel broke a little so i am going to buy those two items i showed you. Does any one have any other recommendations for other bodys they have seen. I was looking at the sr25 body but a little pricy for me.

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@m4ris_spec - *OUCH* how did the upper body crack (direction of crack and distance of fall)? Can you take pictures?

 

When you say the barrel broke - do you mean the outer barrel got whinged/bent out of shape (because if you did then I REALLY want details on how that happened)? If you mean the handguard - I dont think you'll have far to go to replace those - I've seen a few retailers sell TM M4 heatshields/foregrips. Thats going to be cheaper than getting that ris system you pictured.

 

Another thing - I cannot say is if that rail system conversion kit will be compatible - as crazyaznman has noted its 80% compatible - remember one of the 'unusual' features of this rifle is that the muzzle group is one integrated unit. If this kit replaces the outer barrel as well - then I dont think you'd have a problem.

 

The body you are showing is the navy seals one IIRC. Thats the most affordable set - comes with metal hop up too. But I do remember somebody in this thread claiming they have access or will sell metal bodies soon - I believe it was sam0182 - try giving him a shout out.

 

@airdonut41 - you just have to check for the size and configuration of the battery. the most I believe that the handguard can take is an 'A' size (most of my memories from my RC days were the use of sub C type batts - and those will definitely not fit).

 

The best configuration for the handguard is a double nunchuck. If you have an external sling or an anpeq box then you will have to conform to the available space.

 

Another thing you want to look out for is how much mAh the battery pack has.

 

BTW - my rape of the mech box has been put on hold - I am in the process of ordering bearings and shim sets - I have visual confirmation that the mechbox uses nylon bearings.

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Batteries, whether they are for RC or airsoft, can be treated exactly the same indeed they are the same. You can use any voltage but obviously the faster it runs the sooner your gun will wear out.

If you are using RC specific batts then these will be 'Sub C' which are just too big to fit in a plastic foregrip. Airsoft uses 'Sub C' size to fit in solid stocks, PEQ units and Crane stock etc. To fit batteries in the plastic foregrip your cells must be no larger than 'AF' size which is 17mm in diameter.

As far as charging goes then you can pretty much charge any battery immediately regardless of voltage and chemistry. However, all batteries have a finite cycle period before they finally give out which most manufacturers state as between 500 to 1000 charging cycles. You have to remember that 99% of airsofters don't give our batteries anywhere near the same abuse that RCers do. They will flatten their whole battery in like 4 minutes and need a recharge whereas I can charge my G&P 8.4v 3000mah Nimh and it will last forever. In fact it has never run out on me.

 

Outer barrels and RIS/RAS:

Depending on the model of cosmetic addition you wish to make then it depends what original part you get rid of. If it's similar to what m4ris_spec posted a little while back i.e. a free floating RAS and outer barrel then the whole front end of the original gun is gotten rid of right back to the receiver threads. The only part remaining will be the inner barrel and hop unit.

If your just going for a Knight's Armament type RIS or RAS then you will keep the original outer barrel and foresight and just replace the plastic grips.

 

p.s. If your going to go for a free floating fore-end, like the one m4ris_spec posted, then it is highly recommended that you get a metal body. Reason being is that you have to apply a lot of force to tighten the nuts up and you will more than likely strip the receiver's plastic threads or just break the plastic entirely.

 

Metal bodies:

Any aftermarket metal body will fit this gun: Hurricane, Guarder, G&P etc etc.

 

If there is anything your not sure of here then please ask and I'll explain the differences in greater detail.

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Hey Tommygun,

 

I always wondered -

 

1.) how do I get the D Ring off if I did want to change to a metal body?

 

2.) I know I put it in here somewhere - but when I use the vertical foregrip - there were a few times I actually pulled on the grip which pushed back the D ring thereby releasing the foregrip. Is there a way to prevent that?

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1) To get the Delta Ring off it's best to buy yourself a purpose made spanner from your local airsoft shop like this or similar. This is a CA version but Guarder etc do them.

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I have tried using a monkey wrench with wood padding etc but it is a bloody pain in the *albartroth* and you'll more than likely make a right mess of the D-ring star teeth.

 

2) I presume you still have the plastic hand guards and that the spring that is under the Delta ring is just a plain old coil spring. You could press in a small block of plastic or hard rubber etc behind the bottom rear of the Delta ring and in front of the front receiver pin. This would prevent the ring from riding back as you put strain on the vertical grip. Alternatively you could buy a Delta ring spring like this:

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This would provide a lot more tension than the simple coil spring that I presume is currently fitted. If you buy one, and CA and G&P certainly make the spare part, then you will probably have to buy it as a set i.e. spring, circlip, barrel nut and Delta ring.

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does this look good:

1. G&P SEAL Team Metal Body for M4 Series----------- $113.00

2. G&P Special Force Kit for Marui M16A2 / M4 Series-- $115.00

3. Maruzen APS Poing ACOG Sight MA01PS for 20mm Rail- $84.00

4. G&P M16A2 / M4A1 Stock-------------------------------- $39.00

5. King Arms Vertical Fore Grip – Black-------------------- $30.00

6. King Arms L500 Laser------------------------------------- $43.00

7. G&P VLI X9 Flashlight (Type)----------------------------$65.50

8. Hurricane Helical Gear Set (Ultra Torque up Ratio)------$40.00

9. Deep Fire Piston (Full teeth)------------------------------- $16.80

10. Airsoft Surgeon Spring (Stage 6)- ------------------------$7.00

11. ---------------------------------------------TOTAL-----------$552.80

I am going to buy these parts eventually tell me what u think.

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