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Marui G18c AEP Stripping Guide


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This is my first time posting pictures, so please forgive me if things end up looking weird.


I've really been impressed by the guides that other people have posted on this forum, but I've been annoyed that I haven't been able to find a step-by-step pictorial explanation of how to take apart my Glock 18c aep. For this reason, I've decided to go ahead and violate my own piece for the benefit of others. I realize that it has been about two years since this gun was released by Tokyo Marui, and there are probably a lot of people who have figured out for themselves, as I have now, how to disassemble and reassemble the gun. I must assume however that a number of people have been in the same position that I was, of being hesitant to open up the mechanism for fear that, due to its miniature scale, it would be considerably more difficult to reassemble than a regular scale aeg. I expect that this topic thread will probably be at least somewhat useful to these folks, should they decide to do the unthinkable.


A bit of advice before beginning: Don't take this gun apart without having a good reason. After putting my gun back together, it works, but not quite as flawlessly as it did before. This time around I didn't add any upgrade parts in the process, but I'm not taking it apart again unless I'm going to put metal bushings in or otherwise upgrade.


Taking this gun apart and putting it back together required quite a bit of manual dexterity and resulted in considerable finger fatigue.


You will need a very fine phillips head screw driver as well as two different sizes of those drivers with the six pointed star shape (Torx?), one of the two being excruciatingly fine (I'm not sure of the sizes, as I used improvised drivers.)


That said, here is what the process looked like:


(Please note that some of these steps don’t need to be in exactly the order that they appear here, especially if you are only interested in getting at the barrel, hop-up unit or nozzle.)



First step, after removing the battery, slide and magazine, is to remove the three little screws that hold the hop/nozzle cover on, then gently jiggle the cover off. Note the size differences of the screws and where they go.



Next, on the base of the grip, peal off the little Glock sticker and remove the two small, side by side screws underneath (leave the larger motor adjustment screw in place for now.)



Remove the pin running through the bottom rear corner of the grip using the shaft of a small allen wrench or something similar.



The grip base plate now comes off.



Remove the pin at the upper rear of the grip (not the one right above the grip texture, as this is a mock pin location)



At the far rear of the top of the gun, remove the two largish screws that secure the nozzle spring back-plate to the frame. Hold on to it as you remove the second screw so as that parts don't go flying due to the compressed nozzle spring.



Here is a wee spring that does something that I can't comprehend. Don't loose it.



Remove the nozzle spring and it's spring guide.



In case your wondering, the large white plastic bit in this picture (besides that indicated as the nozzle, is actually the upper portion of the cylinder head. Remove the nozzle from it's track inside the cylinder head.



The grip texture plates are adhered to the grip with extremely sticky double sided tape. Remove them by gently prying up one corner with a knife blade and then very slowly peel them up off the grip. Don't go to fast or you will bend or break them. Underneath are two more pins to remove.


(Continued in following post.)

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Part two of three (continued from previous post.)



Remove these pins, as well as the larger diameter pin just above the trigger.



The gear box is now free to move inside the grip, but don't try remove it just yet (unless your's seems to pass freely out the top of the gun--mine didn't.) First, pull the trigger/hop/barrel assembly up out of the gun (the battery ejection lever and little spring will come too.) It is still connected to the gear box by two wires which go to the battery terminal receptical, which is screwed to the front of the trigger housing. I forgot to take a picture of this screw location, but the arrow in the above picture points to where it is. Unscrew the battery terminal receptical from the trigger housing and carefully separate the two by pulling the trigger housing out from between the red and black wires. The gear box can now be pushed out the bottom of the grip, with the battery terminal receptical trailing behind.



As is obvious now, the gun's internals consist of two major assemblies: the barrel, hop-up unit/ trigger assembly and the motor/gear/cylinder/nozzle assembly.






Looky s'more.






Refer back to this and the other nearby pics if you are stumped at the gear box reassembly stage. God knows I did!






I should say...



Rather... me thinks!


(Continued in following post.)

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Part 3 of 3 (continued from previous post.)



So it is...



Taking apart the gear box... so upsetting. These are the four Torx screws that must be removed. The top center one takes a slightly larger bit that the other three, but I don't know what the exact sizes are--i filed myself a tiny flathead screw driver to use on the Torx screws. When it comes to actually popping the two halves of the gear box apart, I suggest opening it inside a clear plastic bag, so as to avoid having parts shoot across the room, never to be seen again. Depending on how compressed the spring is when you are opening it, taking the gear box appapartn be an exexplosivexperience.



With the gear box halves separated, the sector gear and the two spur gears can be immediately removed, along with all the other parts except for the bevel gear, anti-reversal latch and motor.



Not everything here has an exact equivalent in a full sized aeg.



I found that, to remove the motor, I needed to remove not only the three screws holding the motor brace and the brace itself, but also the motor-adjustment set-screw. Perhaps other people may not have to do this.



The gear box, as apart as I cared to take it. The gears are show positioned next to the shims that they were given at the factory. Note that the two spur gears are sitting opposite the position they were in inside the gear box. The gear metal seams to be of the monkey variety, with the sector gear appearing the most monkyish. The piston head has six holes drilled or molded in its face, and the piston head o-ring is sandwitched very loosely between the two plates of the piston head. Sadly, I forgot to check thecylinderr compression when I had the chance.



Cylinder head and nozzle views.







A peculiar star shaped spring sits on top of the motor.


That's all the pictures I took. It took me a bit less time to put it back together than it did to take the gun apart.


Any comments/corrections?

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ur guide iz great...but iz ther a way of changing the barrel only in a much quiker way, rather than removing all of those screws???? Thanx


To change the barrel you need to remove the trigger/hop/barrel assembly from the gun (but not the gearbox.) You must then open the two halves of the assembly by removing the large screw in the side. You can then remove the barrel.

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  • 4 months later...

The "Itty-bitty-mystery-spring" keeps pressure on the trigger transfer bar downwards so that it engages the switch whenever the trigger is depressed. When firing on semi, a small metal block pops up and lifts the whole transfer bar, effectively disengaging the switch and stops the gun from firing. So yeah, DON'T lose the spring unless you have no intention of using semi properly. And a plus one to you for the clear pics.

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  • 1 month later...

Very nice guide famman47, well written, good clear pics, good job mate.

I've always wanted to have a look inside one of these, it's cute (technical term :P ) in the same way my MP7 is inside, but even more so :blink::D


Couple of points;

1) Getting the grip plates off. A little heat (from a hairdrier for instance) will soften the adhesive enough to make it easier, and less likely to damage the plates.

2) The gears look very 'dry' in the photos, were they lubed?

3) That "peculiar star shaped spring" is more than likely to keep a bit of pressure on the motor rotor, to keep pressure on the pinion gear, just a thought...


I had a 'go' of one at a game when I was in Hong Kong, I was expecting it to be pathetically underpowered, but was plesently surprised at it's performance, it's a good little tool isn't it.


Have another well deserved +1 from me ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Daft Q time...


After removing the gears from the mech box and fitting a new spring. Should the sector gear (the half gear side) sit a particular way against the adjacent gear when putting it back together or does a few dry fires set it right?


If thats not clear, let me know. Makes sense to me :P

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Just assemble it so the teeth are away from the piston to begin with, like with AEGs.


Famman, can the anti-reversal latch be reached before disassembling the 'box?

I.e. Can you release it to release the piston? (if it's stopped partly compressed)

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Just assemble it so the teeth are away from the piston to begin with, like with AEGs.


Famman, can the anti-reversal latch be reached before disassembling the 'box?

I.e. Can you release it to release the piston? (if it's stopped partly compressed)


Editing because I didn't read the question right the first time. I honestly can't remember, but there is probably enough space to wiggle a bent nail in or something similar in order to hook the latch and give it a tug to release it.

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