Lance Jackass Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Does anyone else's trigger feel really "mushy" when they fire it. Every other GBB ive had theres a definate breaking point. With my m190 it nneds very little effort to pull it back and has a long travel before it fires. I got this second hand last week, so would you say its time for a new trigger spring? Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_West Posted March 31, 2007 Report Share Posted March 31, 2007 Is it normal for a M190 to work in Double Action, like "shove the mag in and bang away without cocking first"? And how seriously must I take the gun apart to respray it? That metallic grey doesn't exactly appeal to me. Link to post Share on other sites
azz Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 Is it normal for a M190 to work in Double Action, like "shove the mag in and bang away without cocking first"? And how seriously must I take the gun apart to respray it? That metallic grey doesn't exactly appeal to me. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah its supposed to work double and single action but if you dont have a BB chambered first then the first shot will be a dry fire. You can strip the pistol down to the frame and outer barrel in a couple of minutes so its no hassle. Its vital to strip it if you want to paint it well. Oh and the writing on the frame at the front can be sanded out if you don't like it. Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodsword Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Are there any pictures of how to change the inner barrel? Im having problems removing the inner barrel. Link to post Share on other sites
bazzavitchi Posted September 19, 2008 Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 Hi sorry to reopen this topic but I need help and this is by far the best guide I've found on this. Basically my gun won't fire full-auto anymore, regardless of the position of the fire selector it's only semi or safe. I've used this guide to break it down and the part below (as far as I know) controls whether the full auto or semi auto mode is used .....firstly am I right in that presumption? If so then here's my problem. When I re-assemble the part above back in to the slide, inc hooking it on the fire selector and put the nozzle plate back in place all is well and the small moving part (at the bottom of the pic) springs back and forth as it should. However after a few test movements (after re-assembly) with my finger the whole of the part displayed above moves position within it's groove in the slide and this causes the small spring to slip off the small moving part within above which now no longer springs back and forth. Is there anyway to fix this? I was thinking of adding a small sliver of coke can or something to jam the mechanism above tight in to the groove on the slide, has anyone any better solutions to this? Link to post Share on other sites
bazzavitchi Posted September 19, 2008 Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 Ignore my request for help above, several hours after posting looking for help I persevered with the coke can fix on the off chance it worked and hey presto it does the job. Full Auto restored. I've put up how I did it over on ASI and have credited Catman's great takedown guide as part of my post. Very much appreciated Catman!! Now to work out how to fix my spare mag's gas leakage... Link to post Share on other sites
Catman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 Hehe, cheers. nice fix there Macgyver As for your mags; check out my sig there's a link to fixing up KA gas grenades, you can apply some of the same principles to gas mags Link to post Share on other sites
wollfe Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 hi there - i managed to fubar up my gun and using this great guide i've managed to put it back together - so a big thankyou however i'm not sure i've put it back 100% right in respect to the above part - basically i can see very little difference in the above parts position when on semi and full - so i'm not sure if its right or not - i was wondering if anyone could post pictures of it in full and semi mode in their gun so i can have a look and check - i wont be able to test fire it until i go to a site as im out of gas thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites
ejdahunta Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 Hey, umm, are the pictures on the first page working for anyone else, because they're not for me. I've got my gun completely disassembled and I'm replacing the trigger spring, but my guide to get the gun back together is gone now. Could someone just confirm that this is not just my computer? Link to post Share on other sites
n00bert Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 awesome guide!!! had my m190 sitting in bits in a box under my bed for over 2 years with cos of a broken trigger spring - managed to get it all put together and working in under an hour!!! you are a star my friend! thank you very very much! Link to post Share on other sites
ShadowDragonz Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 i got a question.. But as i Follow your guide when i put the hammer housing and then i put the little spring that goes with the valve striker catch and when i did this the hammer got locked for some reason when i take a the spring out the hammer works fine..any way how to fix this? I have the same problem as this dude. I found out that having the valve striker spring (the piece you have to be careful not to loose by using a flathead screw driver in order to take it out) in place makes it where you can't move the hammer up or down (or however you'd like to classify the hammers movement). You can Force and you can feel like it's grinding against parts (which is no good) as long as the sear is out of the way so the hammer isn't locked. Now if you try to fire the gun you can't even if you forced it up and down... so I'm confused. If anybody can help that'd be great! Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_West Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 The valve striker in my Bell Beretta (TM clone, so damn nearly identical with HFC) doesn't pull back all the way in Double Action. Will loosening the hammer housing help in any way? When I push it with my finger while it's half-cocked, it goes back, but on its own accord, it doesn't do so. I replaced the stock hammer spring with an Action one, thinking it'll solve the problem - no go. Single action only. What else should I check? Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.