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M15A4 tac carb (upgraded) doesnt work


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was at xcite wycombe on sunday and my cousins m15a4 tac carb that has been upgraded to 1j and to be able to take a 9.6 and with a tighter barrel at the end of the day just flat out stopped working.

pull the trigger and nothing happens.

we checked the fuse and the battery connections and they appear to be fine.

neither of us have yet ventured into the realms of aeg internals so we could really do with some advice

 

he would be asking this himself but his internet connection is a bit on the busted side.

 

as always +1 for any useful advice

 

cheers

chris (and tim)

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first thing to check is to make sure the connectors have not come away from the motor.

 

Unsrew the bits on the bottom of the pistol grip and ease the end cap off and check the connectors that should be clearly visible. DO NOT lose the small round metal disc that is on the top of the motor.

 

Are you aware that there is a second battery connection inside the stock?? Easy to check, just unscrew the bolt thats on the back of the stock, at the top and remove the stock, you will see the connector at the rear of the reciever.

 

check those, if they are all in order then its something more serious.

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yeah he did pay a guy to do it but the guy is a professional aeg mechanic and has a website and stuff with a 3 month warantee on his upgrades so if we can establish it was a problem with the work he did then we can get it done for free.

 

the mechanic guy is very reputable and trustworthy. he's very popular in this neck of the woods and neither of us are in no way blaming him btw.

 

he goes by the name of the gun doctor on www.teamheadhunters.com

 

thanks for the help

chris

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nope, they dont fire at 1j. more like 300 max after various chrono tests. when bedded in it went down to 280. if it was an spc or a cqbr(which is waht ive got) or maybe a m15a4ris (2006) then it would be around 1j. The fact is it's not and i watched it get chrono'd 2 weeks running on a £200 chrono at 280 plus i dont think he did anything to make sure it can take a 9.6v that was just an error on my part. he did install a tn barrel tho and put a shim on the air nozzle i think. it was mainly the spring and the barrel.

which is why i suspect its got nothing to do with the upgrades done on it.

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Yup, I could make a M15 shoot one joule and handle a 9.6 without even going near it, I charge less than him too!

 

Check the following buddy:

 

Although connectors make look like they fit together; the small pins inside the Tamiya connectors can get pushed out slightly and so sever the connection. Check the connectors in the following places:

Connector on Battery, connector to the battery, connector inside front of the stock, connector to the gearbox.

 

I had an electrical cut out in an old ICS MP5, checked just about everything before I found one of the pins had come out of its plastic housing inside the stock.

 

Motor connections, just use a Phillips to take off the motor plate and make sure the connectors haven't disconnected from the motor.

 

You say the gun isn't firing; although electrical current could be getting to the motor, it could be screwed in too far, the brushes may not be making contact with the commutator and need replacing.

 

If it's none of these then you'll have to get into the gearbox where it'll be one of the following, although these are very unlikely, but I'll list them anyway.

 

Trigger contact is not meeting with the two flanges as they are too far apart, or the trigger contact has been too worn down to fill the game between the two flanges, in either case they need to be squeezed together slightly.

 

Selector plate is not making contact as it is stuck in the safe position.

 

Hate to say this but I'm going to anyway: is your battery charged?

 

If you’re going to check it, do it in the order listed here as it will require less effort, and you should reach the quicker.

 

Hope this helps,

 

 

Ice

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nope, they dont fire at 1j. more like 300 max after various chrono tests. when bedded in it went down to 280. if it was an spc or a cqbr(which is waht ive got) or maybe a m15a4ris (2006) then it would be around 1j. The fact is it's not and i watched it get chrono'd 2 weeks running on a £200 chrono at 280 plus i dont think he did anything to make sure it can take a 9.6v that was just an error on my part. he did install a tn barrel tho and put a shim on the air nozzle i think. it was mainly the spring and the barrel.

which is why i suspect its got nothing to do with the upgrades done on it.

 

 

 

That all depends on the air seal buddy, a mate of mine had his M15 come in a 3%0 on the dot which is the highest I've ever seen a stock CA come in, but as you say some come in as low as 300.

 

This is because air is leaking from one of the following points:

Piston head o-ring

Cylinder head - Air nozzle

Air Nozzle - hopup rubber

 

If an M15 does come in at 300ish you can get it up 328 with no cost, just some grease, tape and a little know-how.

 

CA springs are actually more powerful than a Systema 1 joule.

 

Also some CAs have a metal disc on the spring guide where as others have a nylon spacer, and that can make a small difference too, but only as much as 5fps or so.

 

Ice

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maybe i should have mentioned the gun worked fine after the upgrade (god im an idiot and should have mentioned that, flame at will)

it had a rate of fire that seriously equalled a ca minimi, i kid you not, and its velocity was 1j on the nose everytime.

 

yeah this is what im trying to say. he put a shim in to boost the fps, a

spring altho i dont know what the spring was and then the barrel too. my cousin paid a very respecatble price and as i have said the engineer is not the issue here. the prices on the website, i think they are for full upgrades on makes like tm aegs that dont have the re-inforced g-boxes that ca does.

 

thanks for the help though ice, ill pass on the info

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