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G&G L85 reveiw


Tank

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well i just blew up the PSG-1 piston... things just keep getting better and better...

 

Very ###### off right now... so i'm going to bed, hope that tomorrow will bring better fortune :(

Well, if you just killed the PSG1 piston then that tells me the piston isn't the problem.

 

I'll ask again. Are you still using the blowback mechanism?

Also, what sort of spring is in the gun?

 

Maybe us brit's are giving the gun an easy time by disabling the blowback and fitting 1J springs?

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Well, there's gotta be some problem which is specific to your guns.

 

I shot over 1000 shots with mine with the stock spring, firing at 380fps, and the piston suffered no damage.

I disabled the blowback after a couple of hundred shots.

I then fitted a 1J spring and have fired another 2 or 3 thousand shots and, when I inspected the piston yesterday, it was still looking like new.

 

I don't mean this in a "mine's better than yours" sort of way. I just want to state what I've done so we can compare notes. :)

 

The other thing I'm doing, of course, is using an 8.4v battery.

To break the first tooth off the piston it seems that the sector gear is whizzing around and catching the piston with a helluva bang.

Have you tried removing the spring and checking that the spring can slide easily?

Try pressing up on the piston as you move it backwards and forwards to emulate the force of the sector gear pressing on it.

 

Incidentally, it's worth noting that he says his is giving 345fps on the original spring.

Most G&G L85s are reported to be giving 380fps on the stock spring?

I wonder if this indicates a problem somewhere?

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The case in a nutshell...

 

I did release the spring before takedown. And probably not in all cases pushed the piston all the way forward, but i cannot see how that would screw your piston up when you take the top half off. In the worst case it only could do "zoink" when taking the upper part off. I Also made sure there were none of the teeth of the gears in the upward position when reassembled.

 

Second of all... in my case the piston was allready damaged when I took it apart for the first time. It looks like the gears are not using the full length of the teeth on the piston, because only the top half of the damaged tooth is worn.

 

At first I was firing it with an 8.4 volts battery, but when it began to make funny noises firing full auto, and sometimes it was not firing in semi and auto (switch problem, allready solved). Then it sounded very much like a flat battery kind of noise (one gear overshimmed, and was almost impossible to turn by hand with the motor disassembled). At that point I switched to a 9.6v battery, because i did not know that it was overshimmed, and hoping that this would solve the problem.

 

Maybe the 9.6 v has speeded up the decay of the piston, but it made the same noise firing full auto as it did with the 8.4v. But i allso read that some of you use 9.6v batteries whithout problems, why would it be with mine?

 

And now with Wildcard's new psg-1 piston allready blown after 60 rounds I guess that a PSG-1 replacement piston cannot be the answer (haven't tried mine out yet). I think it is also funny that only the back part of the piston is damaged because that would be the part with the least stress on it when in use.

 

Honestly... i'm a bit dazzled :huh:

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Removing the cylinder assy without aiding the piston all the way forward will damage the teeth. Think about it, or just take my word for it.

 

The PSG-1 piston needs to be modified somehow. I compared them and it's not a straight fit. Also, with a PSG-1 piston you need to use PSG-1 springs, becuase the bore of the piston is smaller.

 

-Sale

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O.K. but could it cause such extensive damage as in our pistons? And on such short notice?

 

The spring was released in all cases and when on full tension I sure could imagine the piston would be damaged by hitting the gears when taken off. Butt still... could it damage the piston that bad?

 

For the PSG-1 piston we couldn't use the ball bearing in the piston. Instead a washer with one side grinded of was installed, and then reassembled. I am going to test my piston today, but fear for the results because the teeth on the PSG piston aren't that wide as the original piston.

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Would it be possible that the problem is caused by a 9.6v battery?

 

Because i have fired the gun (when the old piston was still working) on 9.6v. I didn't notice any damage afterwards but at that time i didn't know anything about the problem so i didn't check the piston for damage.

 

It was only after Wickedb told me of his problem that i looked at my piston and saw the damage.

 

The destruction of the psg-1 piston could just be caused because the teeth are smaller.

 

edit: have any of you fired the gun with a 9.6 volts battery?

 

And i'm still amazed that we are the only ones with this problem

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I think the dead pistons are being caused at least in part by 9.6 volt batts.

 

I have been using a 9.6v 2400 mAh custom from WGC.

 

Please note at this point that I know that G+G said not to but every other batt I own (-maeg) is a 9.6 volt and I am too lazy to re-programme my charger.

 

I use it mostly on single in my garden while I was waiting for a new spring, mine is still stock. Very few rounds through it.

I disconnected the blowback the day I got it and I only stripped it once to check the shimming etc. when I did strip it I pushed the piston forward as I was told to.

 

So, I have done everything correctly except I use a 9.6 volter.

 

Two days ago it started to fire two shots then mis-fire then two shots on repitition.

This seemed to me like the gun was firing the second shot before it could stop the piston, I only fired it like this a couple of times and decided to remove one of the cells from the battery.

This morning I removed a cell and fired the thing again. It is still double tapping so I opened the gearbox to have a look and the back six teeth on the piston are showing wear and nos. 2 and 3 are nearly worn away.

 

Earlier in this thread someone mentioned having mis-fire problems but I think this double tap problem could be caused by the worn piston and the worn piston could be caused by the 9.6 volt battery.

I will order a new piston but if it still double taps I am stumped.

 

Stunt

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I've tested my PSG-1 piston.. It seems to hold up good, no damage at all after 11 realcaps, and one highcap. I've used an 8.4 at first... but I guess it's busted because it couldn't cycle the gun properly. With my 9.6 it felt and sounded a lot more secure.

 

I recall a case where my "Fourteen" did exacly the same after a few days of skirmishing. That piston had damage similar to the ones in The L85's, first tooth (the big one) totaly teared off. I placed a new piston, and no trouble since.

 

So I guess we can conclude that G&G stock pistons are totaly ######... since it's my second piston with the same damage under similar conditions.

 

EDIT:

 

@ amateurstuntman:

 

According to WGCshop

 

NOTE:

Using Battery higher than 8.4V / rate of fire too high may cause damage to Automatic Recoil Bolt Latch, each gun comes with 2 sets of Spare Latch for replacement.

If desired to upgrade rate of fire and/or using battery of higher voltage, disable Automatic Recoil Bolt by removing the Latch is recommended.

 

I took out the recoil parts before I fired it.... So I guess it's justified to use a 9.6v when you disconnect the blowback.

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I doubt double-firing is caused simply by the piston cycling twice "before it can stop".

Given the force it takes to move a piston, the worst that could happen would be that the sector gear wouldn't stop in time and the first tooth would spin around and smack into the first piston tooth.

There's no way in hell there'd be enough kinetic energy in the gears to wind the piston again.

 

Having said that, given that the gun fires THEN cocks, I suppose it IS possible that the gears might travel on far enough to release another shot.

Anyway, point being that it definately doesn't need to wind the spring twice.

 

Surely it doesn't double-fire all the time?

Given that it fires then cocks the gun, if it fires twice with one trigger-pull, the next shot MUST be a misfire, right?

The next shot must just make spring-winding noises with no BB coming out, right?

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Yes sorry, I wasn't clear there.

The first symptoms my gun showed were that on repitition for one trigger pull

it fired then wound then fired then on the next trigger pull it just wound

giving an average of one shot per pull but in the format two, nothing, two, nothing.

This would seem to indicate to me that where it should stop with the piston cocked the larger battery is making the cogs go ever so stightly too far. enough to release another shot but then since power to the motor has been shut off by the single shot mechanism it stays un-cocked.

 

The gun seems to fire fine in auto mode but now it is clear that the cogs are going too fast and "catching" the piston before it can hit the cylinder head.

 

Does this seem a fair diagnosis?

 

Stunt

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Yes sorry, I wasn't clear there.

The first symptoms my gun showed were that on repitition for one trigger pull

it fired then wound then fired then on the next trigger pull it just wound

giving an average of one shot per pull but in the format two, nothing, two, nothing.

Ok. gotcha. Sounds like what I said then. The gearbox is firing, winding and then spinning just far enough to crack off a 2nd shot.

Does sound like that might be caused by the battery pack allowing the gears to over-spin slightly.

 

I gotta say, I wonder if G&G piled too much innovation into this gun.

The blowback was fun for 5 minutes but is actually pretty pointless.

The PSG1 firing system works well for a semi-only gun but will DEFINATELY cause misfires when you change from auto to semi on the L85.

 

TBH, I reckon a lot of the problems with this gun are because of the way the gearbox cycles.

I wonder how long it'll be before somebody has the bottle to redo the gears so it fires like a normal AEG?

Either that or Gaurder or somebody bringing out a new set of gears which allow it to work like a normal AEG.

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Mine does also fire twice in semi mode, but only after a misfire (not pulling the trigger long enough).

 

And when you switch from auto to semi it has to cock first, then fire. In full auto mode it could put the piston in a position where it would be after a misfire, and cause it to fire twice like in a semi mode misfire after switching to semi.

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And when you switch from auto to semi it has to cock first, then fire. In full auto mode it could put the piston in a position where it would be after a misfire, and cause it to fire twice like in a semi mode misfire after switching to semi.

Nah.

 

Worst case it that it will have just fired, thus the next shot will simply cycle and reset the gun in readiness to fire upon the next trigger pull.

 

If the gun is firing twice in semi, for one trigger pull, then there's a problem in addition to the way the gears cycle.

 

FWIW, with most AEGs I am a "short, controlled bursts" kind of guy but, for some reason, I seem to mostly use the L85 in semi.

I have noticed, however, that it does sometimes start shooting in auto when I'm shooting in semi.

And, I'll tell you why.

It happens when I try to fire rapid shots in semi and I don't allow my finger to come all the way forward after making the shot. I even know when it's going to happen.

For those that play other sports, it's like when you serve in tennis and, as soon as you throw the ball in the air, you know that something is wrong and the serve is going to be a mess. Or, if you play golf, even as you take the swing you know you're going to slice the ball.

It's as if the signal has already gone to your hands but, somehow you still have time to register that something's wrong.

 

Anyway, point being that I reckon it IS a bit like shooting a P90. With the P90 you have to make sure the firing cycle has finished completely before firing again. With the L85 it seems (to me) that you have to ensure that you've released the trigger completely before firing again.

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I went through 14 MAG midcaps and about 4 GnG hicaps (450rds.) on the Saturday game here at Fort Ord without a hitch. My blowblack is disabled and I use a PSG-1 160% spring in mine as well as a 9.6v sub-c sized battery. For some reason a Systema M120S spring does not generate the same results as I get in a regular AEG.

 

Simply one fo the best guns I have owned, worked on and used between my P90, G36, M4, MP5 and AK.

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I called them at 3:55pm today, they said they'd got them in. It sounded very manic. Took payment and said they'd get it out today. So hopefully it'll arrive tomorrow.

 

Quick question: Is the upper gearbox attached/screwwed to the lower gearbox? e.g. when I dismantle the upper/lower reciever sections to detach the blow back bolt, will I need to worry about decompressed spring or the upper GB coming out and so on.

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