renegadecow Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Yes, its not a real SVU but an AK conversion. I know a lot of people will be skeptical about this but the only way to build this right is by modding an SVD gas or springer which will hurl me straight out off budget. I don't have pics as of yet, but heres a sketch of how it should look. I'll be able to produce actual pics within the coming week (hopefully). Right now, I'm just waiting for the rain to die down so I could resume painting the kit again (thats how far off in the build I am already). actual SVU http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/ren...ototype/S74.jpg my AK rendition (disregard the long magazine) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/ren.../SVU-A_ver7.jpg So, my problem is that the only trigger mech I was able to install was a transfer bar similar to the one equipped in the Smokeys AK bullpup kit. The only drawback is that there's a long steel bar running across the bottom of the gun, starting from the backside of the pistol grip and entering the trigger cover. What I am in desperate need of are suggestions in ways to either put the bar inside the gun or have a totally different trigger mech altogether (mechanical or electronic). Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Wait wait wait... The picture of the airsoft SVU is yours? Not a photoshop job? In any case, you beat me to building one How did you build the front grip and rear? It doesn't look like a Smokeys build to me. Oh and for your trigger problem, if I were you, I'd just stick with the transfer bar. If you ever want to keep semi-auto, it's the cheapest and best way to do it. If you were desperate enough, you could always go full auto and wire a trigger switch directly to the motor, or if you had the skill and time for it, you could rig up a microswitch system triggered by the cutoff lever to switch an SCR to ground (through a resistor), but that's if you can find space. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 the pic ontop is a real SVU and is stolen from world.guns.ru the one below is my sketch using photoshop. but its what it looks like minus the transfer bar and some minor last-minute design mods done on the butt stock (provided that this stupid humidity will let up enough for the paint to dry). will be updating with actual pics once I get to fabricating the flip-up sights. the only space I can see to fit any sort of electronic switch (and still have some left for a battery) is on the relocated trigger assembly. Did you mean to put the switch in the gearbox itself? Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Got a real pic of your gun? I'd like to see it to get ideas. Hopefully it'll be inspirational! My first suggestion was just taking a normal pushbutton SPST switch. You can put it in serial with your trigger assembly on the front grip and run wires straight to the gearbox/motor. My second idea requires you to remove everything switch related in the gearbox (except semi-cutoff lever) and place a microswitch in there. As the sector gear turns, it would trip the lever which would push on the microswitch (instead of disengage the trigger) and then trigger an SCR to dump it's current straight to ground via a high resistor; instant motor cut until power is removed, which is controlled by the main switch put behind your forward trigger. Although I could be very wrong and just forgotten what an SCR does... but I'm pretty sure there's an electronic device out there that'll do that... Oh and if you're worried about space, if the SCR happens to be in a TO-220 package, I'm sure it'll fit in the space left by the trigger assembly with some fancy wiring. If not, then yeah, hollow out your forward pistol grip assembly (unless it's already hollow) and place the electronics in there and just run the 4 wires (2 from micro switch, 2 for power) to the back... But then, you have 4 wires running to the back, and 2 of them are kind of thick... What about the rear assembly/box/thing? Isn't there a bit of space in there? im sure a folded SCR would surely fit in there... Leaving only two thin wires from the forward pistol grip assembly? Up to you, and depends on the skill you have with such things. edit: I just realized... I'm completely wrong on the operation of the SCR and if it was used, you would have to have less resistance on the dump line than what the motor puts up... and if you had less resistance than the motor, then you would have a high current short... bad idea, but then again I've had 4 hours of sleep today so I might be able to come up with a viable schematic if you go this route... but for now I think sleep is a good idea... Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Wow! The SCR sounds like a great plan! The problem though is sourcing for that miniscule switch. I'm afraid the height of electronic equipment stocked by the local Radio Shack only goes as far as light switches. But I do get your whole idea. In the butt stock that I made, there's very little room left for anything, but if you were to use that microswitch, you can eliminate the trigger area altogether and fill it up with the necessary equipment, OR, put the stuff in the relocated pistol grip and have a gap between the mag lever and shoulder pad just like the real thing. In any case, I'll finish up on my build here. Thanks for the great advice (I really do, I mean, with your suggestion, the entire selector will remain intact and functional). I'll post up pics once its ready so you could have ideas for your own SVU build, and hopefully incorprate the microswitch assembly. Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Yay! Glad to be of help, although my example is a little messed up, hopefully you got an idea of what I was trying to say! You could always try someplace like digikey for the scr and microswitch, but they have lke a $20 minimum order or something... Or maybe you could go scrounge around old floppy disk drives or optical drives or something for a small enough switch... One of those computer-like electrical thingys has the switch I was thinking of, although, it may have not been computer related at all... I'm sure you'll get creative enough! Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2006 Finally got in finishing the flip-up sights. Thanks to my brother who took the pics. Cheers to the first airsoft SVU ever made! Now to scavange some cash for a POS-1. Link to post Share on other sites
D10 Posted September 12, 2006 Report Share Posted September 12, 2006 Holy mother of god that looks awesome! Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted September 13, 2006 Report Share Posted September 13, 2006 OMFG I came... +1 to you Another if you give details on the construction process... Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted September 13, 2006 Report Share Posted September 13, 2006 Very cool.... now just take the sticker off. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2006 I didn't want to remove the sticker just yet because I'm contemplating of selling the AK. As requested by many a posters, below are the details of the build. I can't do a step-by-step process as things can get confusing. First off, my only resources for dimensions were all from the net. I have'nt found any published books/magazines giving details about the real SVU other than what I've already found on the net. Simply to say, I used photos in the most part to copy the looks, and there are a lot of areas where I had to improvise as I built it on an AK47 and not an actual SVD. The butt stock and foregrip (with integrated pistol grip) are built out of wood. I choose wood out of preference and convenience as I've done many a wood kit for AKs in the past, including SVDs, so the SVU isn't all that far off. I used layered planks instead of one solid hunk of wood as this would make the gutting precess much easier. Initial cut and gutting were done using a router and a jig saw. Shaping was done entirely by hand. I can see the potential of using fiber glass or resin instead of wood, but I don't have experience with these materials. As I couldn't find any other way to relocate the trigger (other than what five-seven suggested) I decided to copy what Smokeys did for their AK bullpup kit which is simply putting a long stick between the old trigger and the new one. I fashioned mine out of steel rod, just bending them with pliers. I made the trigger guard out of 1mm thick steel sheet I had lying around. Not much to say here, just cut out a strip, bend and grind. The trigger and flip-up sights I had to fabricate out of PVC as I didn't want to make them out of wood and I have limited metal skills (looks at the trigger guard). The parts are made from multiple pieces of PVC, heat-bended into sheets and then manipulated (beats the hell out of using plastic card). On small things like these parts, just about any cyanoacrylic glue will work, but for bigger parts, PVC glues should be used for durability purposes. A Dremel or equivalent is a must when fabricating small parts like these. The whole barrel is also extended my means of an extender. I could have fashioned one to fit a 650mm inner barrel, but its just too long. I wanted to fit a 509mm barrel on this one as I will be putting a silencer on it in the future and to not want to be pole vaulted with a ridiculously long gun. The extender is made of a stainless steel inner tube (outside diameter: 12mm) and a PVC outer tube just to make the front sight fit on it. Because I used wood on what should be a synthetic gun, I treated all final pieces to generous portions of varnish. The one I used was the cheapest, most plastickey substance I could find. Note the key word plastickey, after all, synthetic is what I'm after. The pores in the grain of the wood absorbs the varnish to a point that it almost becomes solid. Its like filing a sponge with cement. Light yet robust. Painting as the final step, I chose Krylon on the textured effect as I've tried this before and its very durable. I used the paint for making gripping surfaces on ladders, steps etc. Everything else is just plain flat black. I stuck the kit on an AK47s (you can use a full stock AK too), put on a short AK74 flash hider I had lying around and thats pretty much it. For cosmetic add-ons, a bipod, POS-1, and PBS silencer would complete the effect. Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted September 15, 2006 Report Share Posted September 15, 2006 Amazing... Simply amazing... another +1 for construction notes! Link to post Share on other sites
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