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I'm assuming JonBoy took a Guarder M4 body w/ no trades and either did the trades by himself or had someone else do it (We'll let him answer that). And I'm assuming by the look of it, that the handguards and stock are real steel Armalite parts? Also the pistol grip looks to be TM just by the reflection and end plate. It may just be a mixture of Guarder, G&P, TM, real steel, and custom parts? That's all I can guess from looking at it...until we find out from JonBoy ;). It is just a work of art!

 

:EDIT:

By the way, JonBoy, what kind of rear sight is that?

 

LOL! You're not far off from the truth ;)

 

This gun's story is long and complicated. Would you believe it started off as a Well R6 which was supposed to be my spare? What's left from it now, however, is just the motor, gears and the trigger. My beloved wife was interested in playing every now and then, so I figured I'd take the challenge and try to make it the coolest Diemaco C7 (she's Canadian) I can.

 

99,9% of the parts have been replaced, both internally and externally (actually, I didn't even NEED that R6 to begin with... oh well).

 

And so:

 

-the upper receiver was originally a damaged CA M15A2 receiver - the carrying handle was cut off and an upper rail was screwed and epoxied in place, seemlessly (I think it's a Marui or SRC rail)

 

-the lower receiver have been replaced twice, first it was a broken CA part that was fixed and clumsily self-engraced, now it's a brand new unit (CA again) with some heavy modifications - the Armalite trademarks were sanded down, and I had a pro engrave the proper trademarks, including selector markings (S-R-AUTO). Moreover, tiny holes have been drilled for fake firing mechanism axes (which CA, sadly, lacks).

 

The body has, obviously, been refinished :)

 

There's a Marui fake bolt in it, which is physically connected directly to the charging handle (without the arm found in Marui - there was no room). In this setup, it has almost three inches of travel! The ejection port cover pops open when the bolt is pulled back, just like in a Marui. Both the fake bolt and the ejection port have been sanded and refinished, the first by chemical bluing, the latter was bathed red-hot in motor oil for a nicer, deeper, cleaner bluing effect.

 

The stock is a CA product, but the buttplate was refinished (more chemical bluing - provides very pretty 'weathering', too)

 

The carrying handle is a G&P one, yay! I think it's as close to real steel as it can get - great color, perfect sights.

 

The pistol grip is a King Arms "reinforced" one, but it still retains Well's lid. It has been altered, however, for a custom, bigger, thicker adjustment screw operated by a flat-headed screwdriver.

 

The barrel is a custom-made 'convertible' with a CA M15A2 carbine barrel with a screw-on extension to rifle lenght. The gun can be converted into a carbine in a few minutes, but we have never used that feature and we'll soon be replacing the whole barrel altogether for a steel one.

 

As for the internals, it's an SRC reinforced gearbox shell, XYT steel gear set (as in Star's SL-9), CA hexagonal piston with a Systema aluminum head, Systema "0" cyllinder with SRC brass double-o-ringed head, G&P metal sealed nozzle, CA brass spring guide and a PDI spring (low rating, but I won't give it out as it likely exceeds forum regulations in connection with all the seals)

 

There's also an SRC one-piece metal hop-up chamber, a Marui barrel, Guarder hop-up rubber. The motor remains unchanged.

 

As for real-steel parts... I wish :( Armalite parts are not available here... I did, however, throw a lot of RS parts on my main gun (seen there: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...pic=89057&st=20 ;) )

Edited by jonboy2312
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Lots of work then, it would seem :)

 

I've ditched my plans to get a cheapo M4 and use it as a project gun :rolleyes: Courtesy of Skippy I have a solid-stocked M15 CQB inbound ^_^

 

Whip off the solid stock, put it on my M16 for more solidness than I get from my G&P stock, get a HK416 stock, slap that on the CQBR, sort out both hop units = 2 guns that rock! :concert::punk:

 

 

:geek:

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Lots of work then, it would seem :)

 

I've ditched my plans to get a cheapo M4 and use it as a project gun  :rolleyes:  Courtesy of Skippy I have a solid-stocked M15 CQB inbound ^_^

 

Whip off the solid stock, put it on my M16 for more solidness than I get from my G&P stock, get a HK416 stock, slap that on the CQBR, sort out both hop units = 2 guns that rock!  :concert:  :punk:

:geek:

 

Hmm... does that mean you'll end up with a G&P stock and no use for it? :D :D :D I could sure use one... how about being a Santa this year? :P

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Wow, I never realized how much work it took for you build that C7 and especially out of some damaged and extra parts. I'm in a Christmas giving mood, so have another +1 ;).

 

:EDIT: I have to wait a day to change your reputation, but I will do it...

Edited by browningman
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hey guys, thought i might aswell ask this here.

 

i'm thinking of getting my first m4 sometime soon (got me and m14 so far). I quite like the look of the ICS M4 SIR, is this really worth the extra cash over the tm s-system?

 

i want it firing 328, and i want a metal body and whatnot, so is it worth getting the cheaper and doing it myself or just going ics straight off?

 

cheers for any help ;)

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So heres my m4 in progress. I need about 3 more things for it to be complete. Oh and for it to work (I needa reset the gearbox and wire the stock) But yeah. Nothing to fancy, yet.

 

asef018qd9.th.jpg

asef056ki4.th.jpg

asef010tk2.th.jpg

 

 

Finished product hopefully will look like this. sept not photoshopped in two minutes.

newsupergrenade.jpg

 

Question: I need an m203, which one should i get, I want full metal without having to tamper with it and buy extra parts (like a metal barrel) Thanks.

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Nothing special, just the way I like it though.

 

 

Picture013.jpg

Picture017.jpg

Picture012.jpg

 

Full stock and retractable you'll notice. I recently switched to full stock and I love it, the gun feels so solid, and the battery is nice and snug in the stock : )

 

edit: some details about it...because i'm bored.

CA m15a4 originally.

-systema m4 length tightbore

-systema gears

-TM eg1000 motor

-systema hopup/bucking

-Guarder piston

-ICS full stock

-Upgraded spring(trying to not break forum rules)

-G&P Acog Replica

-"Knights Arms" Light Weight Silencer (excellent silencer, and works)

- ICS RIS

- G&P CQB outer barrel

-9.6V 3300mah

-Shoots amazing!

Edited by Marine47
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I guess this is the best place to ask:

 

What are the serial numbers on the latest CA M15s? I just recently got one second hand and as far as I know its nearly new, and it has the yellow hop adjuster.

 

But the serial number is 003933. I was under the impression the latest CA models had a much higher serial number than that.

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I guess this is the best place to ask:

 

What are the serial numbers on the latest CA M15s? I just recently got one second hand and as far as I know its nearly new, and it has the yellow hop adjuster.

 

But the serial number is 003933. I was under the impression the latest CA models had a much higher serial number than that.

M15A4s are well past the 60,000 mark. M15A2s however are nowhere near as popular and are only around the four digit mark.

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Very nice!

 

Thank you! :)

 

hey marine, if you got a GB tech killflash for the ACOG (in stock at unco) you can eliminate the red tint of the lense and have the ACOG look more realistic.

 

That sounds like a pretty cool idea..hmm, if i take the red lense out will there still be a tint?

 

STUNTMAN- I love your sights man, both irons and red dot, looks nice too.

Edited by Marine47
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Well, the one above is an ICS I think. Where the bolt "works". The CA one is just a piece of metal that sits between the gearbox and the body. You could either make a new fake bolt to sit in the same location (if you dont need to be able to change the hop any time soon) or get an ICS bolt and cocking leaver or I think madbull made one to go with their 470 gearbox.

 

No idea which of these ideas will work though. I might try customising something sometime though.

 

(OH, and by the by, assuming you have the magentic CA dust cover, make sure the bolt is made of something ferrous - that fake bolt is what it "sticks" to.)

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How can I get the bolt on my M4 completely closed over the hop dial? I see lots of people with the bolts completely forward in their pics... what do I have to do? Thanks! Its a Tm gearbox in a CA metal body if thats any help at all!

You'll have to manually push the bolt cover forward with you're finger, it's a very tight fit in the CA body. In other bodies such as Guarder, Hurricane, ICS, and TM, they have the charging handle actually function so the bolt cover moves smoothly in those.

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