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Armalite Picture Thread


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What did you use hot glue on?  It looks like you used hot glue instead of solder. Say it isn't so!!!

'Course not - I'm bad at electricity, but not that bad :P

 

I'm sure he used it just to support the wires and act as a cable strain relief. However, read my sig.

 

Kinau,

Did the packs turn to scrambled eggs before or after you put them in the gun?

They were used to support, and prevent any... 'electricity stuff' :unsure: happening between the pack and metal barrel...

 

The old pack got fried whilst charging :rolleyes:

The new (DIY) pack just heated up, a lot, while being used.

 

 

Kin

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haha ya.

 

externals:

guarder colt new gen body

G&P heavyweight colt outter barrel

Guarder RIS

KAC RIS pannels

guarder KAC grip

G&P crane stock and tube assembly/2 9.6V's

G&G cut carrying handle mod

Proud Wilcox mount

unknown aimpoint-works on a real rifle and has no parallax what so ever.

Surefire M951 weapon light

G&G CVL replica

G&P ACOG W/GB-tech Killflash

everything else....either guarder or G&P

 

 

How was the G&P Crane stock installation wise? Do you really have to chop the thing the buffer tube slides on? If you do, is there enough left to sport a normal stock should you decide to switch? One last thing, the wires the G&P kit comes with...what are they?

 

EDIT: Almost forgot, once it is installed, how is it?

Edited by Sgt. Carter
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How was the G&P Crane stock installation wise? Do you really have to chop the thing the buffer tube slides on? If you do, is there enough left to sport a normal stock should you decide to switch? One last thing, the wires the G&P kit comes with...what are they?

 

EDIT: Almost forgot, once it is installed, how is it?

 

Yes you do need to cut the back of the receiver stock tube down. You will also have to dremel it a little to make room for the wires to extend into the tube. As for whether or not it would work on a full stock after the modifications, that I'm not sure. Regarding the wires the C&P Crane stock come with, they're for you to change your gun to use Deans connectors instead of whatever connector your gun came with. Aside from being a better connector, it is also much smaller and consumes less space. Therefore giving the stock with the batteries installed enough internal space to collapse the stock.

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Maybe I'm behind times, but do you still have to replace a couple parts on the G&P ones? I don't remember exacetly what it was, but I thought that you had to replace like, the nozzle and the tappet plate as they were prone to breaking. Anyone care to clarify?

 

ya but think of how relatively cheap that is.

 

If u search in the technical forums, you can find a lot of information about G&P's

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Tasty, I want one of those for myself.... heard nothing but good things about them; IE, as good as, if not better than marui out of the box, and so on.

 

Plus, I have a thing for full-size armalites...

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Plus, I have a thing for full-size armalites...

 

I concur...i think there's way too many armalites on this thread with retractable stocks and CQB front ends. I can't wait to post my m16, my front end should come tomorrow and I'm doing accuracy tests between my old 363mm with the new 455mm tightbores.

 

shall I post results in here?

Edited by Marine47
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My cheapo sort-of M733, though it is awaiting several new parts, so I really don't know what it will end up as...

DSC00002.jpg

 

Apologies for the ###### photo...the decent digicam is downstairs and I really can't be bothered right now. The fonecam will have to do for the moment. :P

 

Started off as an SRC M4, then I slowly added spare parts to it.

 

Awaiting systema gearbox, hk416 lower, noveske flashider, miad pistol grip, high-speed motor and a ctr stock if the sopmod gets put on a 36c.

 

Cheers. H&K

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Awesome! Im building one almost like your setup...just a different flash-hider and motor :)

 

JG M16, JBU Olympic Arms 3.75" FIRSH, 6" bbl, 6.03 tightbore, Element "Noveske" KX3 Firepig flash hider, G&P H&K 416 CQB stock, Systema High Speed motor. 327 FPS w/ 18 Rounds/Sec

 

 

ktk_ace, best advice i can give on painting is to take EVERYTHING apart. I pulled everything off my recievers. Even the forward assist, selector switch and the little dummy indicator on the right side. Like CWB said, take your time, go slow. My AR took a good 6-8 coats depending on the part. Also, if your painting a plastic part use the Krylon Fusion Camo paints. It will work better than any other paint and it dries FAST. It also works realy well on the metal parts.

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