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Chinese made L96A1


gunner-airsoft

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Nice rifle ^

 

Got a chance to test mine out today at an indoor range, at 20m I'm getting definate body shots, can put rounds repeatedly into 'eyes and mouth area' of a head sized target and its about 50/50 wether I can hit a can, the shots that miss normally going just left or right of the thing. Thats with the hop off, Xtreme .28s and a 6x40 optic if that really matters

 

I am hoping to get to a 100m outdoor range on Monday to do some .22 target shooting after which I'll be allowed to hang about to get the L96 ranged for 50-60m depending on how the BBs fly, I know that the BBs in my case are goingto fly so far then drop, would I get away with simply using hop to get my BBs flight path to intersect with my point of aim as they are zero'd with no hop to 20m?

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I'd set the hop up so you have the levelest flight possible, then zero your scope to match. Of course it's airsoft... you can only zero so well. This will range your weapon to the maximum effective range. You might want to put a laser to sight for a closer range (maybe 2/3 effective range). You can then easily estimate targets that are short of your near maximum effective range.

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Redtroop..

 

What's that cheek pouch you have on your stock? I'm looking for one too but most are based on the m700 type rifles. Is there a pouch specifically made for the L96?

 

 

Billy..

 

The PDI 2-way chamber fits perfectly on the Warrior. Length, mag screw position.. everything. Is there a chance you might've bought an APS2 version? I'm not too sure but it might be a little different from the APS Type 96.

 

Also, a VSR is a good rifle (being made by Marui) but I heard you'll have to upgrade it alot to bring it up to sniper standards.. Power, range & accuracy.

 

 

About the fake mag well..

 

I made a "how-to" with instructions, pictures and had it posted on my blog. It's in Korean so I'm translating it and posting it up here soon. Check back! :)

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When I am plinking in my garden with my warrior I can hit a can size target about 90% of the time at about 50 feet. The last time I was home I went and put a penny on the fence at 50 feet and managed to get it off with one shot lol. But of luck maybe. To the bottom of my garden that is about 130 feet im getting roughly body sized groupings. Think I need some upgrades though.

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magwell.jpg

 

Ok guys, here's how I made my fake mag well... It's probably not one of the easiest ways of making it but I didn't have much of a choice with the limited variety of tools and materials I had at hand.

 

Most of the tools I used can be bought at an art surplus store.

 

 

1. Magazine Cutting

 

Instead of getting a G3 magazine, I used a Marui lowcap M14 magazine. I have to warn you guys that this is the most difficult part of the job as the magazine is made of metal. I used Tamiya's razor saw at first but wasn't getting anywhere so I just took of pair of scissors used for cutting sheet metal and cut out little chunks before getting it into the shape I need. My hand ached still ached after two days. :angry:

 

Please note that you have to cut the magazine like the 1st picture in #1. Make sure the shorter side doesn't get in the way of the trigger house and the longer side goes into metal sub-frame (see red line). Drill holes into the sub-frame and fasten the magazine in with screws.

 

As for the plastic unit that's originally inside the magazine, I left about 2cm from the bottom and cut the rest of as to be able to fasten the bottom metal plate with the original screw.

 

 

2. Cutting a hole in the receiver

 

- Cutting a rectangular hole in the bottom.

 

First, measure the length and width of the magazine then draw a rectangular box on the bottom part of the receiver. Using an acryl cutter, cut grooves on top of the line with the help of a ruler and eventually you'll be able to cut all the way through.

 

- Cutting a semi-circle on the side.

 

I used skin lotion bottle (blue bottle in picture) which has a diameter of 3.6cm to draw a semi-circle on the receiver. Using a small drill, I drilled tiny holes along the inner side of the line and later used a utility knife to cut out the plastic. See inset diagram on 1st picture in #2.

 

After that I used a piece of sand paper, wrapped it around my bottle and sanded the rough edges down.

 

 

3. Epoxy Work.

 

Again using the same skin lotion bottle, I sprayed a little gun oil on the side of the bottle (to prevent sticking) and placed it into the hole. After that I filled in the void spaces with epoxy putty and let it stiffen overnight. I also used Tamiya's quick drying putty to fill up small airholes left by the drying epoxy (grey spots on the 3rd picture in #3).

 

After the epoxy completely dried up, again, I used a fine sand paper to smooth down the epoxy.

 

 

4. Results.

 

Last part of the work is spray painting and that's it!

 

I have to point out I used an M14 magazine since it uses 7.62mm rounds but still it's about 1cm shorter in length than the real L96 magazine. I guess it's because the L96 normally used .308 Lapua (8.6mm) or .300 Winchester (7.82mm) rounds. I don't know how long the G3 magazine is but since it also uses 7.62mm rounds, I think it should be about the same size.

 

Anyways, the gun definitely looks better with the fake mag well!! :D

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An update on mine, this is just to check that its performing to the norm. I was at a 100m outdoor range and with the rifle completely stock on .28s, bench rested and with the scope zero'd for windage and elevation with no hop for a 20m range I began adding hop to get it to reach out of 45 yards and was able to hit a torso (my arms and back was traced onto the target) sized target at this range, taking it out to 50-53m again I was able to hit across the arms and torso after tweaking to hop slightly, the effect through the scope was seeing the BB rise above the cross hairs and then drop to the point of aim and hit the target.

 

At this range I am noticing that the wind at the target end of things is something to consider as the odd air current was gliding BBs left or right randomly, all the others seem to stay fairly central and land on target with a grouping spread around the torso area

 

The way I see it its as if the accuracy of an AEG at 30m has been extended to 53m so I'm happy with the performance, although if anyone can tell me if theres something particularly wrong I would like to know

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redtroop, where did you get the flash hider for the end of the barrel from?

also how did you do the fake mag mod? i have tried looking for a guide but the only one i can find has been deleted from the server :(

 

Wolf Armouries in the UK, its the laylax one with a silencer adapter

 

yeah, i'd like to know about that mag mod too!

Pretty much covered in one of those last posts, however I did mine from the guide on rm45.com that has now disappeared!

 

cheers :D

 

 

Redtroop..

 

What's that cheek pouch you have on your stock? I'm looking for one too but most are based on the m700 type rifles. Is there a pouch specifically made for the L96?

Billy..

its just one off ebay nothing special!

 

RT

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Okay, so I just received mine, and the trajectory is wicked off. When I shoot the bb files in a an arc traveling from the barrel of the gun up and to the right then zings back to the left and down. The range is about 125 feet with it shooting like this, but the height of the arc is insane. Any ideas what's up? Sounds like the hop up, but I don't know what to do with it.

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The way I see it its as if the accuracy of an AEG at 30m has been extended to 53m so I'm happy with the performance, although if anyone can tell me if theres something particularly wrong I would like to know

Mine was hitting an A4 target at 50m.

 

You might want to fettle the hop-up like I did.

Basically, 2 hop-up buckings side-by-side (front to back) in the space the lever presses on. You need to file down the lever to make this work. File it accurately.

 

I think it makes an improvement because it provides a softer hop AND applies the same backspin without slowing the BB down so much.

 

I've posted pic's about how to build this elsewhere. If you can't find them, PM me. ;)

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Right. Is kieth telling the truth when he saus that this:

 

http://www.rsov.com/store/product_info.php...4379ed7edbfc6ff

 

Is IDENTICAL to this (Same sub frame and all that jazz)

 

http://www.rsov.com/store/product_info.php...4379ed7edbfc6ff

 

?? getting a bit confused with all this Rebranding malarky :lol:

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Hello Gentlemen I've come to you guys with a question regarding Bipods on the Warrior 1. I've determined that I can no longer bear not having some form of front support and I've seen several Maruzen Type 96's and some Warrior 1's with Harris style bipods on them. I've sent an email to rsov.com and got a reply that basically implies that Harris bipods work but they will break apart the reciever... I'm wondering if this is true, if its preventable and if a Harris really does mount to the bottom of the gun w/out serious modification.

 

Any Help is appreciated ^_^

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Right. Is kieth telling the truth when he saus that this:

 

http://www.rsov.com/store/product_info.php...4379ed7edbfc6ff

 

Is IDENTICAL to this (Same sub frame and all that jazz)

 

http://www.rsov.com/store/product_info.php...4379ed7edbfc6ff

 

?? getting a bit confused with all this Rebranding malarky  :lol:

I doubt he'd lie.

 

There are only 2 versions of the Warrior L96. The one with the metal subframe and the one with plastic. As long as the one you buy has a metal subframe then it's the pukka Warrior L96.

 

Kieth can't very well say "this is the Warrior 1" if it isn't. You'd instantly spot that it had a plastic subframe and RSOVs rep would go down the toilet.

 

I know what you mean about rebranding though.

I suspect Warrior gave up trying to sell it for themselves and just decided to wholesale it to Well instead.

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Hello Gentlemen I've come to you guys with a question regarding Bipods on the Warrior 1.  I've determined that I can no longer bear not having some form of front support and I've seen several Maruzen Type 96's and some Warrior 1's with Harris style bipods on them.  I've sent an email to rsov.com and got a reply that basically implies that Harris bipods work but they will break apart the reciever... I'm wondering if this is true, if its preventable and if a Harris really does mount to the bottom of the gun w/out serious modification.

 

Any Help is appreciated ^_^

 

Hmm.. the unit inside the front of the receiver that holds the bipod is metal and the receiver itself is held together by screws... I doubt the plastic is that weak to break apart unless you throw the gun around :)

 

Anyways, here are two you can use.

 

First bipod

 

I haven't tried this one but by the look of the pin, you can just slide it in to the hole at the front of the receiver.

 

Second bipod

 

I use this one but you need to buy a bipod adapter pin separately. Use either Tanaka's AICS or Maruzen's L96 adapter pin. Tanaka's pin fits loosely while Maruzen's pin is tight and the hole needs a bit of widening with a sheet of sand paper or a dremel.

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Hmm.. the unit inside the front of the receiver that holds the bipod is metal and the receiver itself is held together by screws... I doubt the plastic is that weak to break apart unless you throw the gun around  :)

 

Anyways, here are two you can use.

 

First bipod

 

I haven't tried this one but by the look of the pin, you can just slide it in to the hole at the front of the receiver.

 

Second bipod

 

I use this one but you need to buy a bipod adapter pin separately. Use either Tanaka's AICS or Maruzen's L96 adapter pin. Tanaka's pin fits loosely while Maruzen's pin is tight and the hole needs a bit of widening with a sheet of sand paper or a dremel.

 

 

I was really hoping to get a Harris style bipod but I may ahve to bite the bullet on this one and use one of the aboves. rsov does have 2 Harris Bipods made by "ACM" I was just curious if it would mount to the L96 with minor modification or with none =\ Thanks for the help! :D

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