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Chinese made L96A1


gunner-airsoft

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Hold the stock and then see if there is any play with the outer barrel. I found that the outer barrel can be twisted left to right by about half a centimetre, if that. So try twisting your barrel to the right a little bit so that the hop bucking is actually on the top of the barrel and not slightly to the left.

I remember hearing someone else in this thread report this problem and fix before. The effect may only be minor, but it might help. I found that there was a slight deviation to the left sometimes if the barrel was out of place slightly. It could be that this has no affect at all, but your not going to lose anything by trying it anyway.

 

Also, check the barrel spacers. Some people have reported that spacing the spacers out correctly has improved accuracy.

Also, heavier bb's should defiantly increase your accuracy. I use .3's, and I've found that these give far superior accuracy compared to anything .25 or less. :)

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I'll try heavier BBs. I checked the hop-up last night and it looks straight but the barrel might have been turned left a few mm when I was testing it out. I'll try it turning the barrel right. Also noticed some space between the reciever and outer barrel that made it wobble(up, down, side to side). The small screw that holds the outer barrel locked in the reciever what size is it? I tried my smallest hex but it was to big.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right. I've got my L96, and it's awesome. For £50 it cannot be beaten in the world of airsoft. I'm only experiencing one problem, which I've been trying to sort out for days, but to no avail. The accuracy of the gun so far is pretty poor, especially compared to what it should be in a bolt-action rifle and with the weight of ammo that I'm using (0.36g Straights). So far I've tried the following:

 

-Cleaned and re-lubed all working parts, and cleaned the barrel

-Added a bucking to the hop-up unit so it has more adjustment (now works much better)

-Checked the hop-up for misalignment and rubber damage

-Correctly re-positioned the barrel spacers and checked the inner barrel for damage and movement (there is none)

-Stripped the cylinder mechanism down, checked the nozzle, piston and cylinder, and all seals, for damage (none was obvious)

-Re-greased the piston and re-assembled the cylinder mechanism

 

I've tested it and it's still the same. everything else works a little nicer now, but the accuracy is still not good enough fior sniping. Here are some targets to illustrate, the shots are taken from 17-18 meters with 0.36g BBs unless otherwise stated on the target:

 

L96target1.jpg

 

L96target2.jpg

 

L96target3.jpg

 

L96target4.jpg

 

L96target5.jpg

 

As you can see the accuracy isn't terrible, but it certainly isnt as good as the other Warrior L96 I have used, or as good as Stealthbomber's (his can hit an A4 target consistently at 50m, whereas mine can barely manage this at 20m).

 

Other than replacing the whole working mechanism, which I've considered, does anyone have any suggestions? Help will be greatly appreciated at this stage as I really have no idea what's wrong with it. :(

 

Thanks.

 

EDIT: I should point out here that I am willing to replace certain parts, its just that I don't want to be spending hundreds on this rifle to get it shooting right. I'm quite happy to dish out for a new barrel or a new cylinder/piston if anyone thinks it will make much difference.

 

As a side-note, the accuracy does seem to be slowly getting better (fingers crossed). Maybe its just a case of wearing in the spring a bit?

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EDIT: I should point out here that I am willing to replace certain parts, its just that I don't want to be spending hundreds on this rifle to get it shooting right. I'm quite happy to dish out for a new barrel or a new cylinder/piston if anyone thinks it will make much difference.

 

 

I think the best option in improving the accuracy of the gun is replacing the hop-up chamber and installing a tight-bore barrel. If you're thinking of using 0.36g BBs, perhaps getting a stronger spring and replacing the piston/piston head would help. You can keep the stock cylinder since I hear it's pretty durable and compatible with upgrade parts.

 

I previously used 0.36g BB's on my stock set-up but the rounds kept dropping after about 30m or so and I've switched to 0.3g BBs which provide better range. However, my rounds keep swerving left and twisting the outer barrel around to make them fly straight is out of the question since it's fixed in with loctite.

 

I've decided to give up trying to improve the stock hop-up unit and I'm getting an upgrade hop-up chamber and a tight-bore barrel too. Any recommendations besides PDI's two-way chamber?

 

I'm curious tho Billy.. How are your barrel spacers positioned?

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same here. it has a long barrel so barrel harmonics may have something to do with that. ACMgamers have had good results with custom bull tightbore inner barrels (inner barrels with larger OD at the shooting end) to optimize bb stability before it hits the atmosphere.

 

agree too that the first economical remedial step would be to get a better hop bucking and a tightbore barrel.

 

cheers,

 

zT :assassin:

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DON'T GET PDI! It is complete pos. Not enough movement of the setting lever, meaning it is not much more than a fixed hopup. Wrong, oversized bucking comes with it. The setting tool is just too short so it is a major pain to adjust. You have 2 screws next to each other so you can fix the hopup flying toward one side, to bad it fails because you don't know if the rubber was misaligned, or the screw were not matching.

My every attempt to address these problems failed. Now I have a big metal piece in it with a screwhole over the rubber and I set the hopup power by screwing it in or out. The same method I used on 20$ LPEGs. But here I had to cut a hole to the outer barrel.

Just get a tightbore.

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gunfighters- they are white teflon-coated, I'm pretty sure the graphite ones are grey right?

 

Everyone else, thanks for the tips, it was really a 50/50 between getting some new cylinder parts or getting a new hop-up and barrel. I appreciate the advice. My barrel spacers are spaced out evenly along the length of the inner barrel, the one at the front is about an inch from the muzzle, and the rest follow about 5/6 inches apart. I've heard about barrel harmonics but I didn't know it affected airsoft guns.

 

Does anyone know if the Laylax Aero Chamber hop-up for the APS series will fit, and is it any good? it says on zeroone that it's compatible with AEG barrels which presumably means I can use a 500mm inner with it. Anyone know whether I'm better off going with a 6.04 or a tighter barrel, because 6.01 and 6.02 sounds awfully tight...

 

Anyway, cheers, really appreciate the help.

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Nice. I'll be using 0.36g all the time I imagine, I don't think those come in anything less than great quality, they shouldn't for £10 a bag of 1000 anyway. Anyone know if 6.01 is a good idea, or am I just asking for trouble?

 

edited for number ops.

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Right, first, you undo the two bolts that hold the stock onto the reciever and barrel. Once you have the action out, you can simply unscrew the outer barrel from the reciever, there is a little grub screw here, holding the outer barrel on and preventing it from unscrewing, but it wasn't done up on mine (doing this up after you reassemble the gun stops a lot of the barrel movement). Once the outer barrel is off, remove the mag-catch assembly by undoing the screw, and then the hop-up and inner barrel will slide out in one piece.

 

To get the hop-up unit apart is a bit trickier. You need to undo a brass collar that sits where the hop-up chamber and inner barrel meet. Then you can take out the inner barrel and hop-up rubber. The bucking chamber can be accessed by backing off the hop-up adjuster screw, then pushing the collar up and sliding it off the end of the hop-up arm. This can be fiddly. Careful you don't lose the little spring inside- would be a bugger to find in a carpet :P I used a tiny square of thin card as a bucking, but you can make one with pretty much anything the right size. I would have used something larger like wire insulation, but the arm doesn't have enough adjustment and everything would have been over-hopped. You only need a tiny thin bucking to get enough hop.

 

If you need any other help on stripping the gun, just say. I've done everything but the trigger mechanism so far...

 

edit: spalling

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You don't have to split the gun to access the inner barrel. Just undo the screw that holds the mag catch, remove the barrel end cap and you can slide out the inner barrel. I use a flat screwdriver to push the hopup out a bit then I can grab the inner barrel and pull it out.

For some reason, the screw that holds the mag catch doesn't come out. Then at some point, all of a sudden, falls out on its own. I lost a screw because of this so be ware.

I use this method all the time. Thank you PDI hopup unit for making me master the inner barrel removal.

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You don't have to split the gun to access the inner barrel. Just undo the screw that holds the mag catch, remove the barrel end cap and you can slide out the inner barrel. I use a flat screwdriver to push the hopup out a bit then I can grab the inner barrel and pull it out.

For some reason, the screw that holds the mag catch doesn't come out. Then at some point, all of a sudden, falls out on its own. I lost a screw because of this so be ware.

I use this method all the time. Thank you PDI hopup unit for making me master the inner barrel removal.

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Ok I decided to take the gun apart to see what the hop unit was like it in. Also just to give it a good clean and everything too. So here are some pictures.

2.JPG

3.JPG

4.JPG

 

This is what the hole that holds the outer barrel in place looked like when I pulled it out. It was covered in shards of metal and grease.

1.JPG

After Cleaning all this ###### off I noticed that the hole that the incredibly tiny grub screw goes into is far wider in diameter than the screw itself. This is obviously why there is a bit of play when twisting the outer barrel.

5.JPG

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Ok this is what I've heard from someone who has just upgraded ALL the internal parts except the stock cylinder on his Warrior L96.

 

He's using PDI's hopup two-way chamber and he told me that there's no choice but to use a two-way hop-up system since there seems to be an alignment problem between the upper receiver and outer barrel.

 

In other words, if the barrel and receiver are perfectly aligned, then both screws applying pressure to the hop-up bucking should be evenly screwed in but apparently, they're not... meaning, to get the BB's to fly perfectly straight, the amount of pressure applied on the bucking (in the case of his gun) by the two screws are different from each other.

 

I guess this is not the case for everyone's replica, but even if you get a one-way type hop-up chamber upgrade, there's still a chance that your BB's might not fly straight. Perhaps twisting the outer barrel a little might help but if anyone has glued down the outer barrel with loctite (like mine), the problem might still exist.

 

After reading Pendra's discouragement in using PDI's two-way, I thought of getting an Aero one-way chamber but now it's looks like I don't have much of a choice :(

 

BTW, thx for the spacers tip Billy :) and Wedgie, nice picture & rug & feet :P

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So you're saying the Aero chamber hop-up won't fit? Bugger. Well I'm sure the PDI two-way is ok if you adjust it properly right? Well I hope so.

 

Nono.. The Aero chamber is APS Type 96 compatible so I'm pretty sure it would fit on the Chinese replicas too. I'm saying that since it's a one-way hop-up, your BB's might still deviate in one direction constantly due to the receiver & outer barrel.

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Phew.... thanks...

 

I don't mind the BBs deviating really as long as it's constant. Plus, I haven't secured my outer barrel properly yet, so I should be able to fix deviations by twisting the outer barrel.

 

I'm getting comms next week, then this, so I will let you know how it goes.

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