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My TMP is broke!


TerranCmdr

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Okay, well I tried plasticmag's idea, with no go. Can you explain "needs to be held down" better? As in, up or down. Either way, I think my TMP is fuxed.

 

So if it is the piston head, I should just force the bolt foward to take it down? Since there's no more hope for the piston head, and I don't want to bend anything leading to more breakage. And is there a spare piston head i can get or am I just left with a nice paperwieght?

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Plastic mag, on my diagram 168 is the rubber seal in the mag base plate.

186 is the loading muzzle.

I don't have either part spare, I had some sucess a while ago ordering TMP spares from zero one airsoft but they seem to have got more rare since then.

 

TC, the piece plastic mag wanted you to apply pressure to needs to come down and forward to clear the bottom of the bolt, if it is that.

 

TC and wild stallion, I have two spare mag catches (both part worn but not fruitcaged) if you need them.

 

TC, Here is a picture of a piston head, not as damaged as yours probably is but you can see where the lip has blown out.

you can also see where I filled it with epoxy to repair it. it doesn't make as tight a seal as it used to but it still works.

Pistonhead.jpg

 

you will need to push it pretty hard, since it is already knackered don't worry too much.

you might want to pack the feeding nozzle against something soft so you don't damage it or the muzzle/hop area.

 

also don't hit it with a hammer or anything, if it is that hard to move there is a chance that your hammer wasn't held back for some reason and it is stuck on the bottom of the bolt, but it should get out of the way if you push the bolt forward while sharply tapping the mag well down onto something moderately hard like a book or magazine.

this will jolt the hammer without damaging the mag well.

 

If the piston is trashed, don't stress, I am going to the machine shop right now to have some of these made of steel,

 

193-191.jpg

 

it is a combined piston head and piston that is very much reinforced, I know it is rough but it is just a dimensions mule, the finished one will have loads of surface detailing not shown here.

 

So I will be able to sell you one.

If any of the trigger mechanism parts in your TMP are broken I have spares of them all.

 

Let me know how you get on.

 

Stunt.

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Okay, well I got the bolt forward by forcing it, but I can't seem to get it far enough forward to get it off the little lips.  It just needs to go like 16th inch forward, maybe even less than that.

 

there is a screw on the inside of the foregrip, if you undo that, you can maybe lift the front barrel assem up a little bit to jimmy the bolt forward that tiny last bit.

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WOW, you want 186 piston heads? You must have a lot of broken TMPs!

 

 

I am going to Canada for three weeks this weekend, when I get back the prototype will be finished in Aluminium. Then I will test it in my TMP.

Once it is tested and working I will be producing them in stainless steel.

At that point I will either post in this forum or get a retailer forum going.

I am planning to do a part 186 after this one, we'll see how it goes.

just for interest after the piston and cylinder I am thinking of doing a stock, ris rail, recoil spring, recoil buffer, marui hop conversion, full length (through the silencer) tn barrel and a few other bits like a mag catch for the thing.

 

I am out of the army at christmas and I am hoping to be able to move into airsoft to make at least part of my living.

 

I am good at TMPs and AUGs So I will focus on them first.

 

Here's hoping I can live my dream.

 

Stunt

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I'll do it like this one,

 

tmpfullset1.jpg

 

an aluminium version and a cheaper, resin version. Hopefully I'll be able to do a rubber butt plate. Don't know, it is a bit into the future.

definately do the internals though because I want them for myself and if I can sell a few to offset the cost of prototyping then all is good in the world.

 

Stunt

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WOW, you want 186 piston heads? You must have a lot of broken TMPs!

I am going to Canada for three weeks this weekend, when I get back the prototype will be finished in Aluminium.  Then I will test it in my TMP.

Once it is tested and working I will be producing them in stainless steel.

At that point I will either post in this forum or get a retailer forum going.

I am planning to do a part 186 after this one, we'll see how it goes.

just for interest after the piston and cylinder I am thinking of doing a stock, ris rail, recoil spring, recoil buffer, marui hop conversion, full length (through the silencer) tn barrel and a few other bits like a mag catch for the thing.

 

 

i think he meant a few part 186's, not 186 parts.. :)

 

I'd be interested in the recoil spring, recoil buffer, upgraded internals, DEFINATELY THE STOCK! the marui hop (which hop unit/version?)

 

which RIS rail would it be? i already have a scope mount.

 

Any idea of the prices of those? probably the resin stock for me.

 

Where abouts d'you live? i'd be interested in working for you when you get going :)

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Okay, well I got the bolt forward by forcing it, but I can't seem to get it far enough forward to get it off the little lips.  It just needs to go like 16th inch forward, maybe even less than that.

 

 

I am so sorry mate I totally missed this post.

First the allen bolt inside the fore grip should not be a dummy, it is part no. 93 on the diagram.

 

Second you don't need to remove it at all.

 

1. remove the top cover

2. on top or the barrel on the front is a piece of metal that says "up" on it, push this towards the rear of the weapon.

3. While still pushing the "up" plate to the rear, pull the round metal plug behind it out of the gun, upwards.

4. the "up" plate will now slide forward out of the gun.

5. push the bolt as far forward as you can and then keep pushing it as you pull down the two sliding metal parts on either side of the receiver (just above and to the rear of the fore grip).

 

your bolt should now slide forward that last little bit and the bolt and barrel will both slide out of the gun upwards.

 

if they don't slide far enough forward, you will need to push the auto sear down with your finger, it is a piece of metal down the left side of the bolt, part no. 85

it is pinned at the rear and looks a bit like a field hockey stick.

 

this will get the whole thing out, then strip it down to the piston head and take a picture of the piston for me.

 

Tink, I got that, I was just messing.

I'll probably box the internals and recoil buffer and guide as one upgrade package as the toughened parts will eat the plastic ones, the hop will be a VSR/P226 one but you'll probably have to take off the top cover and adjust it by allen key.

The ris will be a short one like on mine in the pic but with rails on the sides too.

No ideas about any prices, none at all. I'm in Maidstone and if I get to the stage where I am hiring anyone I'll be chuffed to bits and I'll tell you and the other forum members.

 

OK?

 

Stunt

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yes it could be, if it is far enough forward you will be able to shine a torch up the inside of the mag well and look throught the hole the gas goes into the cylinder through and see what things look like.

 

have you done the rest, removed the plug and pushed down the two sliding parts?

can you take a picture of where the bolt is now?

 

Stunt

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I don't know what to say, Mine gets exactly that far, then I push down on the auto sear, there is a click noise and the bolt goes forward an extra 3mm and comes free.

 

By removing bolt 93 I can get the barrel mounting post this far up post-18344-1161285558_thumb.jpg

and with a bit of shimmying I got the bolt forward from this position without touching the auto sear

try this and also try pushing the auto sear just before the bolt gets to the limit of it's movement in case it is binding on the undeside of the bolt.

 

Stunt

 

*edit* also push the bolt from the left side to the right side as you press down on the auto sear to try and "tilt" it off the top of the sear.

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Tink, I got that, I was just messing.

I'll probably box the internals and recoil buffer and guide as one upgrade package as the toughened parts will eat the plastic ones, the hop will be a VSR/P226 one but you'll probably have to take off the top cover and adjust it by allen key.

The ris will be a short one like on mine in the pic but with rails on the sides too.

No ideas about any prices, none at all.  I'm in Maidstone and if I get to the stage where I am hiring anyone I'll be chuffed to bits and I'll tell you and the other forum members.

 

OK?

 

Stunt

 

yeah, that's sensible. the VSR/226 hop is the V/H type one, isnt it? if so, that'd be awesome. super long range. allen key under top receiver would be fine if it made any improvement at all. Those rail kits would be usefull too. i love the way they make the actual TMP sort of blend into the silencer. the stocks would sell like hotcakes though.

 

lemme know whatever way it goes. i'll happily test out prototypes of everything you make (so long as you make a guide on how to take that ###### bolt off ;) )

 

stocks first, please ;)

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Sonnofabitch, I'm really starting to get frustrated with this thing. The auto sear has no play up and down whatsoever, no matter what position the bolt is in. I can get the barrel mounting up just as far as your picture, but the bolt just won't go forward. Stupid auto sear.

 

I take that back. The sear has the tiniest bit of play up and down. Just a tiny tiny bit.

 

Okay, my roommate managed to get it. Now what?

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here are two pictures, the first is the part of the bolt that the auto sear fits into, the second is the spring on the auto sear that gives it the movement, when you get them open check these parts for damage.

 

try anything to get the thing off, it just needs persuading.

 

 

post-18344-1161287431_thumb.jpg

 

post-18344-1161287462_thumb.jpg

 

 

Stunt

 

*edit* OK I saw that you got it apart

also the pics dotn't have the helpfull arrows I added in photoshop.

 

right, at the back of the bolt is a cross head screw and a friction pin.

unscrew the screw and bang out the pin.

when you bang out the pin be carefull not to loose the very small spring, part 195.

It will ping off.

when you have the pin and screw out, remove part 193 backwards, it will just slide out, the piston head will (if I am right) be mangled.

 

show me how mangled and we will go from there.

 

Stunt

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