amateurstuntman Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 There you go: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...showtopic=99194 I take it the TMP you are selling as spares is no longer for sale? I will use the money from selling this stuff to buy more parts and go towards the metal piston head design. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Smurf Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Just a quick question for other TMP owners on here. Is the hammer meant to be constantly putting pressure on the underside of the bolt or could it be a warm part causing it? The one on mine is even when the hammer is cocked, it is putting enough pressure onto it so that if you recock the gun once already loaded and cocked the bolt does not always go forwards properly and gets stuck half way through the action. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Not really, on the back of the bolt is a sprung flap. The flap pushes the hammer down into the trigger mechanism and then deflects over the top of the hammer when the bolt goes forward. When the bolt is fully forward it shouldn't be touching the hammer at all. So, to summarise, bolt going backwards: hammer constantly in contact with hammer. bolt going forwards: hammer not in contact with the bolt at all but the little flap does move out of the way of the hammer. Your problem could be caused by the flap, part 194 not being free to move. Slowly rack the action with the upper receiver off the gun to check for me then get back. If it is not that it might be a problem with the sears in the trigger mechanism. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Smurf Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 After having a closer look i cannot see a sprung flap on the back of the bolt. Just to clarify part no. 83 is what i have been referring to as the hammer, if this is incorrect then i apologise. This is the part which is making constant contact with the underside of the bolt except when the bolt is full forward. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Well, that seems like your problem right there. If there is no part 194 in your gun then the hammer will be in constant contact with the bolt and the hammer won't be pushed down far enough. That in turn will give you the sticky bolt problem you described plus the gun will light strike and in automatic fire the hammer can follow the bolt forward, both of these will give greatly reduced performance. Can you take a picture of the back of your bolt for me? Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Smurf Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Sounds like it to me too now. although it does not look like there is anything missing from the bacl of the bolt. Here is a pic i just took: http://cmurphy.co.uk/pics/tmp1.jpg Sorry about the quality but i have ###### lighting in this room. The full version is: http://cmurphy.co.uk/pics/tmp0.jpg 1.24mb in size Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 I can't quite see from that picture but it looks like the piece is missing. Can you strip the bolt out of the gun and take a pic from directly behind it? also pull the slide back and forth in that position and see if a piece of the back of the bolt moves as you rack it. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Smurf Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 No part of the rear of the bolt moves at all. Here are a couple of pics, one from behind and one from underneath. http://cmurphy.co.uk/pics/tmp3.jpg http://cmurphy.co.uk/pics/tmp4.jpg Large versions: http://cmurphy.co.uk/pics/tmp5.jpg http://cmurphy.co.uk/pics/tmp6.jpg Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 You have a couple of custom made parts in there. It looks to me like at someone who owned it before you had it break on them and very ingeniously made their own parts, the problem is that the piston is a very complicated shape and almost impossible to make without casting or access to a milling machine. Your previous owner hasn't bothered, not knowing the significance of the sprung flap. I only have one spare piston assembly and it is under offer at the moment, if it falls through I will let you know, failing that I will get another batch of parts next month. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Smurf Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Ok, cheers. I would definatly be interested in getting it working as it should be. I will contact the person who i got it off to see if they know anything about the custom work which has been done to it. Thanks for your time. Link to post Share on other sites
AGuy Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 small problem, after dissasembling to put on my new piston head, i was pushing down the inner hammer (the thing towards the back that can be pushed down and released with trigger) to try to get the bolt on and it doesnt come up after i pull trigger. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 It won't come up unless you push the auto sear (pt#85) forward first. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Fox_Starwing Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Ok, I just received a new loading nozzle from stunt (thanks mate!) and pulled my TMP completely apart. I find it odd that I've never had any trouble not being able to get my guns apart and back together again. Some of the pins were absolutely hardheaded about coming out though. I had to persuade them with a hammer. I got the new nozzle set up and ready to go, but in doing so, I found that my gas seal had cracked. It looks just like one of the pics I saw here earlier (terrencmdr page 3). Two cracks on the underside of the seal, nothing hanging or flapping yet, but close. I think I'll try that rubber band idea with some epoxy and see how it works. I'm really pulling for a metal gas seal stunt, hopefully you'll get those things soon. Oh, have you ever thought about adding a groove and an o-ring, stunt? I wouldn't want that bare piece of metal sliding around inside the loading nozzle. I think it would tear it to pieces. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 The part I have designed has two oring grooves. Here it is, You'll need to change the file extension to .ems and download the CAD program from www.emachineshop.com to view it but it is done. The only problem is getting enough money to build enough to make the individual parts cheap enough to sell. I guess they call it startup capital. I am making a bit of money here and there selling these TMP parts and hopefully I will have enough to order some metal pistons soon. I am just so so skint. Good luck with the elastic band thing, I have a few piston heads left if you run into problems. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted March 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 I should have some money to buy the piston head this week. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted March 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Okay, tiny problem. I got the new piston head (thanks again stuntman) and I'm trying to put the darn thing back together. Basically I'm stuck as to how to put the little moving piece (i believe it's called #194, swivel arm) at the back of the bolt back on. I'm not sure where to put the spring or how exactly it fits on. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted March 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Nevermind, got it. ...... Muahahahahahhahahhahahahahhahahhahahaha hhahahahah hahhaha ha ha. It works. I'm so happy. Thank you a million times over amateurstuntman. Now to go break it again! Lol. Stupid green gas. Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Alright, this post is a continuation of the discussion going on here http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...pic=99194&st=40 Well, my gun works 70% reliably in auto... Oh and stunt, tonight I figured out what that silver screw you included was for lol. I was wondering why that was in there... Too bad it isn't a flat head or philips, I had to go digging for the appropriate hex length and size. Ok, so back on topic of my auto problem. I sanded down the auto sear and the catch on the hammer, added a .3mm shim to part 193 and the gun seems to work a tad more reliably. I really think I need a new Part 193 though.. mine is kinda hashed so I believe it puts unecessary pressure on the inside of the cylinder/engine in the wrong directions... It's because one of the slides is broken off lol. Party 196 is supposed to hold everything together, but I still think a new 193 is in order... But yeah, my problem is that, I don't know exactally what's changing whenever I fuss with the gun, but sometimes the gun fires very weakly, and fails to cycle on every other shot, and sometimes the kick and cycling is fine but auto fails to work... I have no idea what's going on, and I'm wondering if anyone else has any input to the problem? I've run out of time to diagnose the problem tonight, as of now the gun seems to work reliably in both semi and auto, but just in case someone has any input, feel free to leave some! Oh and on a side note, when I stick my internals in the TMP body, it doesn't seem to work nearly as reliably... My SPP body seems to work 80-90% reliably in auto vs the 50% reliability in the TMP body. Anyone have any input on that problem? Although I think I'm going to stick with my SPP body for now... Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 TC: Good for you man, I want to hear stories of you killing many men. 5-7: Last first: I have no idea what could be causing the gun to work differently with the two bodies. All the internal parts have the same part numbers so they are identical. Stumped. If your part 193 is broken then that is bad, even if it is badly worn that is bad. it shouldn't move at all in the bolt but the nozzle should be free to move without getting stuck. If your 193 is just badly worn then experiment with shimming the different sides of it so that it doesn't move but the nozzle can. Also try firing the gun whilst pushing the mag up into the gun. If it works more reliably that way you could have a worn out mag catch or mag top seals. We'll get there. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Hehe... maybe I need to buy a 193 from you then... One of the sides is completely broken off, but I had that held in place with the same glue I used on the piston head. Ugh!!!! how irritating! this seems to be a very tempermental gun! Although it's quite beautiful and nice to fire when it works.. My mag catch seems to be in very very good condition, but I realized after I reseated my mag seal, it seems to work a bit more reliable. The gun doesn't exactally work more reliably, it just kinda shoots louder and faster. Although, there is little wear on the mag seal, I'm interested in how much you are selling them for. If I'm going to order 193 from you, I might as well get a mag seal just in case... I'd experiment with different shimming, but I can't seem to find where my .2mm shims went.. I guess I gotta go hunt for them... At the moment I believe the gun is working fine, but I'm not so sure about the gas efficency... I'm not sure, but I think it's lower than it should be... Ahh!!! Stupid troubleshooting... I'm not going to fuss with the gun until I get a new can of gas or a serious problem arises, or someone gives me a solution. Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 OK, if you think you have poor gas efficiency and pushing the mag up gives more noise and blowback then the chances are your mag top is a bit fubared. I've got some, they are 5GBP. The 193 is 15GBP, I don't have one in stock but I'll have one soon. When you glued the 193 the chances are that the piston head end of it got slightly misalligned, if the broken parts are really well secured to each other then it will probably hold, I had a broken one in a gun for about 4 skirmishes as a primary (4 to 5 thousand rounds), as long as you shim the thing properly so that the nozzle is free to move without undue resistance you will be able to discount that as a fault and move on with the fault finding. If it is crooked enough then no ammount of shimming will get the thing working properly. This time difference isn't helping either you need to move to the UK, it's much nicer than Hawaii, no chance of sunburn. I might get up a half hour earlier for work on tuesday and see if you are on then (be about 1730 there). Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Hmm... for some odd reason, so far as much as I've been fussing with it tonight, it seems to work fine. It's just that it has a much higher ROF with the mag being pushed up a bit. I think I'm going to try and shim the mag first, and if that' doesn't work I'll take you up on your mag top seal offer. Once I find the damned glue again, I'll try and reglue part 193 and see if I can't get things back to the way they were. There' some slight resistance on the piston as it's fully retracted, but once you get past that, there's next to none. I guess I can attribute that' resistance to my glue job, but we'll see... Once I find that stupid glue... The shock tends to kill superglue... Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 OK, the reason you get just a rof increase with the mag up is that the rocket valve closes pretty fast meaning the fps is fairly constant but the more gas going into the nozzle the faster the blowback and the higher the rof. With lots of gas leaking out the blowback will be sluggish but the fps will stay similar. Stunt Link to post Share on other sites
Five-sEvEn Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 Here's a quick update: So I did the coke can thing and the gun works fine. (mad props for that suggestion) Then my piston head kinda exploded, so I trimmed my rubber band modded one and tossed it in. Then everything was working fine. Then the full auto parts had some wear and stopped being uber reliable, so I filed and modded them. And everything was working fine. Then I realize after a few failed cycles im killing my nozzle. The rocket valve sometimes fails to return to the forward position and I can't figure how to get the stupid pin out. Care to help with that part? Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytylke Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 (poor college student) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have to sit through geometry. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I dont wanna be a douche, but i found this combonation odd... Link to post Share on other sites
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