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Warrior 1 L96 reports


renegadecow

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Becasue of the lack of proper info about the gun, I've gone through a series of tests which eventually led to the gun failing on me, however remedied. Please post your own achieved reports on grouping as well as problems raised for the benefit of wannabe snipers. Below are mine, edited from the full length review.

 

My biggest qualm of all is the fact that the magazine-load indicator was assembled wrong. In the event of emptying a magazine, a small nub is supposed to pop up beside the barrel to discretely tell the user without the enemy taking notice. This nub was permanently popped up when the gun is put together. Dismantling the stock in half, and a few minutes of understanding its mechanisms, I came to the conclusion that the spring of the magazine-load indicator was placed backwards with it pushing up instead of down. I replaced the spring accordingly as well as cut some coils to weaken the spring so that the magazine follower will not have difficulty in pushing it upwards. The feature now works all the time on my rifle so I can keep enemies at bay without having to dry fire the gun and thus revealing to the world that I am out of bullets.

 

Update: October 27, 2006

 

First, the bad news.

Something went horribly wrong today in the middle of precision testing. First of all, I observed that the spring had settled down to sub 500fps as my shots have become less erratic since the first time I used the rifle. I opened up the hop assembly to thoroughly wipe clean all excess grease and dirt as some of the lubricant seemed to have come from the excess inside the cylinder. Right at the end of my shooting session, the sear failed almost immediately after pushing the bolt back into place.

 

I opened up the sear box and noticed a lot of cracks developing around screws. The sear itself did not break, but the slot in which the sear pin sits in did. As wide as the sear box is on the outside, a lot of space is removed from the inside with only a few structural supports molded in. As a quick fix, I glued up the cracks and the parts that completely got torn off as well as reinforce the void spaces. It’s a good thing that I had this special thermal plastic at hand which is semi-elastic when hardened so it could handle stress even better. I’m not all too sure about the availability of this product in hardware stores, but I’ve been said that the material I used is synonymous to “hot glue” or “glue gun”. Other filler alternatives would be epoxy or resin. Filling the sear box didn’t take all too long, maybe inside an hour to make sure everything meshes perfectly. The remedy indeed worked but I would take some time in the future to construct my own sear box out of PVC if not have it machined out of aluminum.

 

Other than the incorrectly assembled magazine load indicator as mentioned earlier, I also observed another feature that does not replicate that of the Maruzen even though I know this same feature should be present. That item is the striker indicator. A thin shallow rod is supposed to pop out from the rear of the bolt when the bolt is pushed back into action after cocking the gun. I opened up the cylinder only to see that the thin metal rod was shy about 8mm from popping out at the full retraction of the piston. Instead of adding material to the rod, I simply replaced the screw holding the piston head in place. The screw I put in was exactly 8mm longer than the original screw. Although this solved the problem of the indicator popping out, I realized that the indicator did not go back in after taking a shot. There was a lot of grease around the thin rod and the slot it was inserted too which provided enough resistance for the whole rod not to move back. Also, the screw that held the entire bolt into place as well as the striker indicator was too tight and prevented easy movement of the rod. Removing the excess grease and replacing it with a less viscous silicon oil as well as loosening the bolt screw by half a turn gave enough slack for the indicator to function as it should.

 

And of course, the good news.

I’ve completed my precision testing after doing all the above fixes to the gun, and below are the following scans of the paper target:

 

L96grouping.jpg

L96grouping2.jpg

 

The first target has 5 rings. Each target was shot with 5-shot strings indicated with the number of shot as well as the letter targeted ring. Ring size is 1”. These were taken at 20m, no wind, and from a bench. As stated, the fps had already decreased at least enough for .25g bbs to allow passable groups, and estimated at 470fps. The second target shows a single ring with a 10-shot string, just to show a more vivid scatter. The smallest group I attained was 3.25” and the largest at 6”. 3 out of 5 of the rings had fliers not hitting the paper at all, but these rings were at the edge of the target paper and I could attest that they all fell within 6” from the farthest shot in the same group. Doing an informal test, I could land all shots within 12” at around 30m. Using heavier bullets to tighten the groups will be nothing short of an unfair advantage.

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I'm just off to check the mag-loaded indicator on mine.

I've been asking what that was since I received mine!

I assumed it was supposed to pop up higher when the mag was empty.

 

I asked Darklite if the gun had the cocked and empty indicators and he said it didn't. Muppet. :P

 

I was going to mention that the gun DOES have the cocked indicator in my review and I was sure the doohickey at the side of the mag was the empty indicator but I couldn't make it work.

 

+1 on its way if you're right. :)

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I really hope my gun doesn't have these 'sear' problems, basically for a couple of reasons.

 

I don't know what the 'sear' is or where it is

 

I don't mind the mag indicator sticking up as I have no-where near the required skill, knowledge & stones to take my stock apart to even take a look, let alone fix it

 

I will more than likely just use it for plinking as I don't currently skirmish at all, so I'll just pray it holds together

 

edit: just for the record, I've only had one problem with my Warrior so far (only fired 15-20 rounds through it) which was the mag would not come out of the well when released, it needed prying out. I swift burst of silicon oil and few quick 'in out in out in outs' of the mag solved that one....the thing flies out now! :)

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got one and my sear cracked at the hole. after 300-350 shots

 

 

gun cronoed at 453fps with a .2 long ways away from the 500+fps

 

i had about a 1 foot grouping at 100feet and after 170 i had a hard time hitting torso's. i use some .28 PHX and the scope i used was a bore sighed Leupold Mark 4 3.5-10x40mm LR/T M2 IR

 

 

 

side note i dont think im going to fix it. I'll just end up selling it and keeping my G spec.

 

edit. forgot to list how meny shots i had on it before it broke.

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I reallyI swift burst of silicon oil and few quick 'in out in out in outs' of the mag solved that one....the thing flies out now! :)

Like an 8-track? :P other than just oil, the mag well of my friends L96 was so out of allignment that you needed to pry the mag out using a screw driver. You can actually fix the allignment as the mag release lever can be moved left-right. You have to loosen the screw keeping it in place first, allign it then just tighten the screw back in again. If the magazine itself doesn't seat well (horribly wobbly while in the gun) you have to tighten the outer barrel into the receiver to close the gap a bit. Theres a grub screw on the under side of the receiver to keep the barrel from turning so you have to loosen that one first.

 

Can anyone confirm the compatibility of after market trigger/sears for this? Like the steel sear casing made by N2, costs only $100 at WGC. I don't want the Zero trigger as it devoids all forms of safety devices.

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thanks renegadecow,

 

i bookmarked this page for when i get mine in. Seems the gun is even more full-featured than i thought!

 

some of what you describe is a little fuzzy to me now, but i'm sure it will become more clear when i actually have the gun to compair for myself.

 

I realize that it's a $100 gun and it's not going to be perfect for durability. But i do enjoy tinkering-so with this help, i feel confident my money will be well spent.

 

+1!

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nice lil mini review renegadecow!!

 

since the l96 is only a $100 sniper

i know i'll have to do some tweaking here and there to get it up to par

hopefully it wont be too hard for me to get familiar with the l96 as im a noob when it comes to fixing and upgrading this since this is my first sniper ...... :blink:

 

i hope i get some help from my fellow pinoy arniesairsoft compadres when the time comes..... :P

 

lolz..

 

anyone else on ACM messing wth the L96 clone ???

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Gah, I've buggered mine up before my first skirmish with it! :(

 

I was cleaning the barrel and pushed the cleaning rod a little hard I guess. Something seems to have fallen into the "cylinder space" as now the bolt will not cycle completely. I can pull it back to cock it but something is preventing me pushing the bolt fully home. It's only a small distance, maybe half a centimetre.

 

Any suggestions before I open it up? :blink:

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No need to take the whole thing apart. You can remove the entire bolt by first removing the cheek piece then pulling down on the spring guide lock (its the lever directly in front of the trigger hidden in the trigger housing). This should take some effort pulling it down for the first time. When its down, you can pull the whole bolt out of the receiver and have access to wherever the blockage is. When replacing the bolt, you have to push the piston sear a little backwards with a screwdriver for clearance.

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Yeah how about some helpful individual doing a series of takedown photos for us noob weapon engineers.

 

I just got one and the cheap arsed safety catch is snapped so I will need to fix that but I want to take care of all of the above issues too.

 

A takedown series would be really useful :mellow:

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hmmm i see alot of newbie people getting into trouble with this gun. So to date we know the trigger mec is *beep* and will just break down around the sears.

The safety catch snaps off.

Ive heard someone say something about the hopup bucking not getting pressed right.

Sounds like a load of ###### to me so far!

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hmmm i see alot of newbie people getting into trouble with this gun. So to date we know the trigger mec is *beep* and will just break down around the sears.

The safety catch snaps off.

Ive heard someone say something about the hopup bucking not getting pressed right.

Sounds like a load of ###### to me so far!

 

 

well i know people have paid alot more for so called top of the range guns and ended up with far bigger (and expensive) problems right out of the box.

 

considering this only costs $100, what are you realy expecting?

 

for the price this gun is great value for money, sure it needs some work, but IMO thats half the fun.

 

if you want a perfect gun then spend more of you money on a expensive branded gun.

 

i cant wait to get mine and hope to spend plenty of time tinkering.

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well i know people have paid alot more for so called top of the range guns and ended up with far bigger (and expensive) problems right out of the box.

 

considering this only costs $100, what are you realy expecting?

 

for the price this gun is great value for money, sure it needs some work, but IMO thats half the fun.

 

if you want a perfect gun then spend more of you money on a expensive branded gun.

 

i cant wait to get mine and hope to spend plenty of time tinkering.

 

Exactly.

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I'm no newbie so like a lot of airsofters i already own a reliable gun.If i bought the L96 & it needed work to bring it up to scratch it doesn't really matter to me as i have a gun to play with.Hence i don't think it's the best newbie weapon but rather a gun that can be taken & improved upon relatively cheaply.When the big fuss has died down i'll buy one,hopefully by then the bugs might have been worked out or it will be an easy fix due to all the people posting fixes for it.

Either way i'll end up with a cheap gun for when i feel the need for a differant style of play?

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Gah, I've buggered mine up before my first skirmish with it!  :(

 

I was cleaning the barrel and pushed the cleaning rod a little hard I guess. Something seems to have fallen into the "cylinder space" as now the bolt will not cycle completely. I can pull it back to cock it but something is preventing me pushing the bolt fully home. It's only a small distance, maybe half a centimetre.

 

Any suggestions before I open it up?  :blink:

same thing used to happen with my Maruzen L96, sometimes a BB would fall back and stop the bolt from going all the way forward... seems they replica'd this too :D

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Just an update for the "haters":

The structural reinforcement I did to the sear/trigger box (filling every void space with hot glue) seems to have held its own, which is a good thing as this is currently the largest set-back in purchasing the gun. Since the mod, I've brought the rifle to a bivy, in which it mysteriously vanished only to be brought back by a team mate not long after it was gang raped by a bunch of jerks who wanted to "test fire" the new rifle. All it got was a lot of mud. No breaks. I've also been skirmishing with it lately and everythings holding fine. Although another W1 L96 user busted his safety lever: accidentally slipped the bolt mid way from pulling it and mashed into the lever.

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