Warrior 1 L96 reports

[BobSpoons]

Oh heck

 

I have dissassembled my stock so that I can do the mag-empty mod and run into a probem.

 

There are two really short screws near the trigger are that appear to screw into the metal oblong inside the case. The metal though doesnt seem to be threaded so they just spin. They are really short.

 

Any thoughts please? Threadlock needed????

 

 

Help please

 

Alex

 

EDIT: Decided to threadlock it with some superglue and so far things look to be going okay Thanks for the good info and picks on doing the mag indicator alteration.

Cheers.

 

FURTHER EDIT:

All done now.

Odd thing is though that although the mag-empty indicator works perfectly when I push it from inside with my finger, the tab on the actual magazines doesnt move enough (or maybe hard enough) to actually shift the indicator. I think I read earlier in this thread that someone cut a few coils off of the spring. Wish I had done that.

After all the trouble I had taking the stock appart (It really is very tight) dont think I want to go through it again.

 

Alex

[Stealthbomber]

You're pretty-much correct on all counts.

 

There are two allen-bolts that screw into the alloy subframe inside the stock. These do strip very easily. If it happens your only option is to try to threadlok them or fill the holes with JB Weld and retap them.

 

The mag indicator can be pretty half-assed. You really need to cut down the spring so it's only just long enough to hold the indicator down without actually pressing it down, if you see what I mean.

When I did it I also found the results weren't great. I noticed that the little arm on the mag didn't seem to be pushing upward far enough to do what it needed to. I ended up pulling a mag apart and adjusting the arm so it worked but, frankly, it wasn't worth the effort of doing it on any of the other mags.

[Avneet]

I'm having a problem. Is the hop up bucking in here the same as bucking for all guns? I want to get a new better bucking, but I don't know which brand and type to get because I don't know what fits. Any help please?

[BobSpoons]

Just a last note from me on the subject.

 

I decided to have another go at the mag indicator today so I did. After doing it all over again, cutting the spring so that it only just fits without being loose, I have the following to show for it:

The mag indicator hardly moves, I really have to be watching it to see it twitch. It certainly doesnt pop up on mine. At to the bundle I was a little too heavy handed when seperating the stock and have a very small crack in the underside of it now (it was really really pinned tight).

Like Stealth suggests, I think the problem is with the mags too. My gun indicator I believe is working properly now but without the arm on the mag doing its part, you get nothing.

 

So my advice to anyone is unless you really want to have a go at the mag catch, I wouldnt bother. I have no doubt it has worked okay for the good guys within this thread but its worth noting that it really might not make any difference and you risk doing damage in the process.

 

I have 3 mags and have tried it with all. Two are a tiny bit better than the one it came with but its still not really an indicator sadly.

 

So I just thought Id report my experiences thats all.

 

Cheers

 

Alex (BobSpoons)

 

EDIT:

Stealth. When you modded the mag, did you adjust it somehow so that the arm moved further or did you think of packing out the plastic on arm to make it basically start from a higher position?

[Hite]

 

I saw this on firesuppot, and as the PDI hop chamber is apprently not very good, well would the follwoing be any good?

http://www.fire-support.co.uk/store/comers...?idProduct=1050

I doubt it will let you use AEG barrels,. but it does mean you should be able to use standard maurzen barrels without any modifaction..

[Stealthbomber]

EDIT:

Stealth. When you modded the mag, did you adjust it somehow so that the arm moved further or did you think of packing out the plastic on arm to make it basically start from a higher position?

The mag I took to bits wasn't very well molded. I just cleaned off all the flash and molding marks then filed the BB feed doodah a little bit so it lifted a tiny bit higher so the arm lifted that tiny bit higher too.

 

I actually drilled a 2.5mm blind hole in the indicator then filled it with a dab of white paint so, in theory, I'd see the white dot pop up when I was out of ammo. Huh, fat chance.

As you say, it's totally flush with the stock when you have a couple of BBs left. It rises about 1mm when there's 1 BB left and maybe another 1mm once the mag is empty.

 

TBH, my super leetdeltasocom tactic for sniping is to have 4 mags fully loaded then take as many shots as I can count with one mag. If I need to get off 20-odd shots in one go I'm probably in big trouble anyway.

So, I shoot 8-10 shots in one "session" then I swap to a new mag after recocking the gun.

That way I KNOW there's a BB in the chamber and I know there's a fresh mag in. While I'm sitting around I'll reload the partially used mag and stick it back in a pouch.

Not the slickest system in the world but it's better than relying on the bloody indicator.

[BobSpoons]

I have had a thought that I am pondering on.

 

Basically I wonder about the idea of extending the bottom of the indicator peg (havent looked in the gun yet to see if this is feasible.

The travel of the indicator if pushed with a finger is a good 5mm or so, so lengthening the peg at the bottom "may" help (Or it may just end up being a similar amount of non-movement but just from a higher starting place lol).

 

Considering the amount of mm that the magazines lever lifts, I would have expected to see the same amount of movement in the indicator. Considering this doesnt happen leads me to think that there is some slack that needs taking up and extending the indicator peg by say 2mm may do the trick.

 

What do you think?

 

Alex (BobSpoons)

[Hop2]

I saw this on firesuppot, and as the PDI hop chamber is apprently not very good, well would the follwoing be any good?

http://www.fire-support.co.uk/store/comers...?idProduct=1050

I doubt it will let you use AEG barrels,. but it does mean you should be able to use standard maurzen barrels without any modifaction..

 

I'm just a noobbie to this L96 merlarky, but I have been told that the hopup you link to above needs setting up to a specific weight BB, then, if you wanted to change that set up to another BB type or weight, you would have to take it apart and add or subtract hop material... Apparently, when done correctly, it can be very accurate, but it does take a loooooooong time to get right.

 

Again, this is what I have been told, not what I have experinced.

 

My question would be, what replacement barrel should I chose for my Well L96? And where can I buy one from?

 

[UrPeaceKeeper]

The mag I took to bits wasn't very well molded. I just cleaned off all the flash and molding marks then filed the BB feed doodah a little bit so it lifted a tiny bit higher so the arm lifted that tiny bit higher too.

 

I actually drilled a 2.5mm blind hole in the indicator then filled it with a dab of white paint so, in theory, I'd see the white dot pop up when I was out of ammo. Huh, fat chance.

As you say, it's totally flush with the stock when you have a couple of BBs left. It rises about 1mm when there's 1 BB left and maybe another 1mm once the mag is empty.

 

TBH, my super leetdeltasocom tactic for sniping is to have 4 mags fully loaded then take as many shots as I can count with one mag. If I need to get off 20-odd shots in one go I'm probably in big trouble anyway.

So, I shoot 8-10 shots in one "session" then I swap to a new mag after recocking the gun.

That way I KNOW there's a BB in the chamber and I know there's a fresh mag in. While I'm sitting around I'll reload the partially used mag and stick it back in a pouch.

Not the slickest system in the world but it's better than relying on the bloody indicator.

 

 

When I disassembled mine a long time ago to fix this issue I left the full spring in the thing. I remember reading that some people cut a few coils off of theirs to make it move easier. Now whenever I put an empty mag in the little indicator pops up. I then put a dab of white out on mine (which has held out better then the paint on the stock ironically ) The thing I also did is when I was painting my stock I took a peice of tape and put it over there so the area around the peg is all black up against a green/brown background. The whole peg sticks up no more then 2.5mm to begin with (thats with me pushing it up by hand) so its not very big.

 

Just as a little tip that I've observed with mine, when you recock the gun move your head that slight bit to see around the bolt and look at it, then look back down the scope. I've resorted to doing this because otherwise you never see it

[Hop2]

To answer my own question, I've been through all 16 pages of this thread and the summary seems to be that Stock, the Warrior 1 has a 6.04 barrel (confirmation anyone?) and as such, a 6.03 barrel won't make that much difference. Money, it would seem, is best spent on barrel spacers, and time is best spent on making sure the hop rubber is set correctly.

 

I've also seen some tips on using PFT tape, I'm assuming that the tape goes on the thread of the Cylinder head? And also covers the hop rubber in some mysterious way....? anyone got pictures of this?

 

Also, if I put a 150 spring into the piston, would I need new spring guides AND a Clyinder (plus head) or just spring guides?

 

At the moment I have very poor performance from my L96. 30 yards at best then it starts to drop.

 

[Hop2]

If I bought from Zero One, it would look like this:

 

• Laylax (PSS2/PSS96) 150SP Spring - LXPSS2150 12.99
• Laylax (PSS96) Spring Guide Set - LXPSS96SGS 14.99
• Laylax (PSS96) Cylinder Head - LXPSS96CH 14.99
• Laylax (PSS96) Barrel Spacers - LXPSS96BS 9.99

 

Of course I could get just two sets of barrel spacers, the spring guide set and the 150 spring.... But would the spring fit inside the stock cylinder.... More importantly, would it break it!?!?

 

[Stealthbomber]

I've also seen some tips on using PFT tape, I'm assuming that the tape goes on the thread of the Cylinder head? And also covers the hop rubber in some mysterious way....? anyone got pictures of this?

People wrap the hop-up in PFTE tape in the misguided notion that the tape will help seal the hop up.

 

In fact, PTFE tape is a lubricant. It's NOT a sealant or an adhesive. All it does is lubricate threads so that fittings can be tightened and, upon tightening, microscopic lumps of the PTFE tape are pressed into any dips in th thread surface, effectively sealing the threaded joint in the same way that caulking seals gaps between planks in a wooden boat.

So, in short, wrapping PTFE tape around the outside of the hop-up is a waste of PTFE tape.

It might help reduce air loss through the hop-up seal if it's poorly designed but, FWIW, you could just as easily wrap any kind of tape around the joint or even spray it with hair lacquer to seal it.

Another alternative, which I use, is to smear a tiny blob of silicon sealant around the end of the inner barrel before slipping the hop-up sleeve over it. This TOTALLY guarantees that no air can squeeze out of the front of the hop-up sleeve.

 

Having said all that, the L96 hop-up is quite well designed and, if it's assembled correctly (no guarantees there) an o-ring compressed by the gland nut should ensure no air can escape through the front of the hop-up.

[Hop2]

Got it. But what about wrapping PTFE tape around the screw thread of the cylinder head? Would that help at all.... And what do you think of my preposed shopping list...? Will that spring and guide set fit into the stock cylinder and could I avoid buying the replacement cylinder head?

[Stealthbomber]

Got it. But what about wrapping PTFE tape around the screw thread of the cylinder head? Would that help at all.... And what do you think of my preposed shopping list...? Will that spring and guide set fit into the stock cylinder and could I avoid buying the replacement cylinder head?

Putting PTFE on the cylinder head might help but, TBH, it's got an o-ring on it and in my experience it usually seals pretty well.

 

You probably want the barrel spacers.

 

What FPS will that spring give you?

The gun is doing nearly 500fps out of the box and the components are reliable at that figure so there's not really much point replacing stuff like the piston, piston head and spring guide etc.

A proper ported cylinder head might be a good idea to aid consistency but, tbh, if you're going to screw it to the stock piston you might as well spend the money on a cheap dremel and port the stock piston head yourself instead.

The main reason to buy sexy pneumatic parts is for the way they look rather than for any performanc gain. The stock bits look rough but work well.

 

I'll tell you right now that what's going to kill your gun, sometime in the future, is when the trigger housing breaks.

The trigger housing is attached to the gun by two small plastic tabs with screws through them. These 2 tabs take all the force of holding back the piston before the gun is fired.

Eventually they'll crack and break.

At this pint you have a couple of options:-

1) Buy a Zero trigger.

2) Buy an alloy trigger housing.

3) bodge some kind of U-shaped bracket to fit around the plastic housing to re-attach it to the gun.

 

[Hop2]

I've ordered just the barrel spacers today, and that's it... I'll put them in, check the hop for alignment while I am in there, perhaps add some PTFE tape to various places around the hop and the screw thread of the cylinder head, then I'll get it chrono'd and report back what I find... At the moment, I'm resisting the urge to buy an upgrade barrel, spring or cylinder....

 

Thanks again for the help...

 

 

[Hop2]

Sadly, Zero One sent the wrong barrel spacers (Merry Christmas guys) and when I inspected the Hop, the phrase "Second-hand" sprang to mind... Broken plastic rings and a worn looking hop rubber, a hop arm that is stiff and just a general lack of decent build quailty...

 

That sucks.

 

Ideas anyone for a decent replacment hop for the Well L96?

 

 

[Pendra]

The only replacement unit I know of is the PDI unit. I just converted one to utilize my new hopup design idea. It works like a treat now. 70-75m flat trajectory with Guarder black rubber and Prometheus M16 barrel. Good luck finding one thou. It is sold out almost everywhere.

We also made a brand new unit from aluminium, but I lack a specific O ring, which I can't get now due to Christmas. It is already one hell of a unit, but it seems the lack of the rubber caused around 0.3J power loss. The gun shoot 2.7J with the home made unit and around 3J with the PDI that had the O ring.

After my unit is ready it wouldn't be too hard to make a new one.

[Hop2]

Yep, I can confirm that a PDI hop unit for a type 96 is like the preverbial rocking horse droppings!!!

 

Thanks for the tips on rubbers and barrels to use... Can I ask what your new hopup design was/is?

[Pendra]

Here is the design idea I had in mind:

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=130952

 

As for the fixing up the the PDI unit. I cut a metal bar that fit into the carving on the top of it, but shorter by like 1cm . Then carved a slope into it and started to push it around. Put a small spring to one side and AEG shims to the other. It was like add 3mm worth of shims. Assemble, no hop. Disassembe, add 2 more mm. Assemble, too much. Disassemble, remove 1mm, assemble, almost there... Took a few hours and it is mostly fixed in its state, because you need to take the hopup unit out to add or remove the shims.

[Hite]

I likes the look of you're hop-up idea. The biggest advantage is that it takes AEG barrells (correct me if im wrong). This would aloow people like me who would like a 6.01 mm barrell on their gun without getting a pdi chamber or making grooves in an aeg barrell (which i dont have the tools nor skills for..sadly:( ) And the smallest type 96 barrell i can find is 6.03 from Z1.

 

Edit jsut lokoing on un company, they sell the OK 6.03 barrell with hop up unit. If i were to get this, would i have to modify the hop unit like the pdi do you think? or does anyone know if the OK hop unit is any good?

 

Thanks

hite