chameloon Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Why do it now? It may not even crack - Stealthbombers hasn't yet. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> As a matter of prevention. Anyway, gun is fully stripped now, so I could afford to take 30 minutes more to put some glue on the trigger box. Providing I could un-attach it Link to post Share on other sites
Xinyue Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Well, I have seen a lot of issues with this gun, since this will be my first sniper rifle, and more importantly one of my first guns (I'm coming from paintball), would you all recommend me getting the MP-001 instead maybe? Because it looks as though that has been more reliable... but if you think I will be okay with this gun (I wont be ordering until around Christmas) then I['d much rather do that, since I love how it looks. Thanks . Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Thing is, not many (none, unless I'm mistaken) L96s have actually snuffed it yet. I wonder if the issue is actually that L96 owners are spending more time investigating problems? If you truly want to make an informed purchase, your best bet is to hold off for 6 months and then make a decision. At the moment, if I was after any decent, cheap, sniper rifle the HFC VSR11 would still be the top of my list. It's been out long enough to prove itself and it's compatible with all the TM spares. I wanted a sniper rifle that wasn't just a generic "boltie". I would have already ordered a springer VSR11 (I will never, ever buy another gas sniper rifle. Ever!) and fitted it with a carrot stock if it hadn't been out of stock at the time. Fortunately, the Warrior 1 came along at just the right time and I took a gamble on it. If I didn't want to take that gamble, the VSR11 would still be the rifle I'd choose. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Chameloon, have you removed the spring guide lock first? The metal doo-hickey that looks like a broad reversed trigger in front of the actual trigger? The whole plastic box will be very difficult to remove if this is still on. Although once out, theres nothing holding the whole bolt assembly other than the bolt in its down position, so be careful. I had the bolt slip out and fall on my bare foot. Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Well, I have seen a lot of issues with this gun, since this will be my first sniper rifle, and more importantly one of my first guns (I'm coming from paintball), would you all recommend me getting the MP-001 instead maybe? Because it looks as though that has been more reliable... but if you think I will be okay with this gun (I wont be ordering until around Christmas) then I['d much rather do that, since I love how it looks. Thanks . <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Xinyue I think Stealthbomber is right in that the L96 is under much more scrutiny. It has had a lot of attention whereas the MP001 seems to have drawn a bit less interest. This could be why we're hearing more about the L96 (plus I don't think anywhere near as many people are buying the MP001). I took a double risk and bought both. If you don't necessarily want the near 500fps that the L96 offers and 400fps will do then I would reccommend you buy the MP001 first. Its cheaper so if you decide that sniping is not for you then you've wasted less money. If however you enjoy it and want something a bit more powerful then order yourself a L96 next year. By then there should be more reports on how well it is performing over time and you will be able to make a more informed decision. Hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites
Xinyue Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Alright, thanks for your help Stealth, and Trooper, I appreciate it, I think I will do what Trooper said, and probably go for the MP001 first... now I just need to decide if I like the wood look, because I don't see any stores selling the Black Matte version, that also have the Bi Pod yet. I also don't see any places with the CYMA 030 Glock, (Other than gunners and Nachos) which I was going to get as well. Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Alright, thanks for your help Stealth, and Trooper, I appreciate it, I think I will do what Trooper said, and probably go for the MP001 first... now I just need to decide if I like the wood look, because I don't see any stores selling the Black Matte version, that also have the Bi Pod yet. I also don't see any places with the CYMA 030 Glock, (Other than gunners and Nachos) which I was going to get as well. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Go for the wood - its probably the best fake wood finish I've seen on an airsoft gun. 90% of guns are black so why not be a bit different with a classic look (have at a look at the pics of mine on page 3 here) Besides if you decide you don't like it, a can of black krylon doesn't cost much Link to post Share on other sites
Xinyue Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Ahh, that's actually really nice looking... what kind of scope is that? Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Ahh, that's actually really nice looking... what kind of scope is that? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Its the one that came with the L96 - this one I also bought this one that will end up on the L96. Link to post Share on other sites
Xinyue Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Wow, that's really nice looking, I think this is the gun ima go for, and with everything I wanna get from gunners, with the shipping included, it's not too much, thanks a bunch for your help! If I werent new i'd +1 you . Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 Wow, that's really nice looking, I think this is the gun ima go for, and with everything I wanna get from gunners, with the shipping included, it's not too much, thanks a bunch for your help! If I werent new i'd +1 you . <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No probs - enjoy Link to post Share on other sites
burning_ghost Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 I fitted a bipod to mine today using the Guarder bipod adaptor pin. Be advised it's a VERY tight fit. In the end I lost patience and hammered the damn thing in! I know it's not just mine as my pal has the exact same issue with his. I'll be fitting the barrel spacers I got tomorrow. Will let you know if THEY fit. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 I forgot to mention, sorry, the spring in the bipod release lever is TOO BIG that it makes it nearly impossible to push down. I took mine out, cut/bent some coils to shape, and now it pushes down all the way. burning ghost, you might want to do this as it will be the only way to remove the pin out. Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 I fitted a bipod to mine today using the Guarder bipod adaptor pin. Be advised it's a VERY tight fit. In the end I lost patience and hammered the damn thing in! I know it's not just mine as my pal has the exact same issue with his. I'll be fitting the barrel spacers I got tomorrow. Will let you know if THEY fit. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah the bipod pin I got is a really tight fit too. I was going to file the hole a bit before I attempted to push mine in completely. You might find yours is impossible to get out now - not that it really matters I guess. Is there any real need to replace the barrel spacers? Whats wrong with the ones in it already? Link to post Share on other sites
burning_ghost Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 Thanks for the replies, I don't intend ever taking the bipod pin out so it can stay there. The Guarder barrels spacers fit perfectly. The ones in there are foam albeit quite firm. I was just curious to see if these replacements improve performance any. I doubt it but you never know! Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 I guess it got lost. I did mention the bipod pin being tight ageas ago. I found that the simplest solution was to roll some sandpaper into a tube and give it a bit of a rub inside the hole. BE WARNED, however, that you need to press in the release lever when you do this or you'll sand that down too and then the pin won't lock in place. You wouldn't want that would you? The one thing I have noticed about the L96 is that the paint seems to be very thick all over it. As a result,internal features such as the bipod pin hole are pretty tight until you remove the paint. The spring is just fine on mine, once the paint has been removed. Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 I guess it got lost. I did mention the bipod pin being tight ageas ago. I found that the simplest solution was to roll some sandpaper into a tube and give it a bit of a rub inside the hole. BE WARNED, however, that you need to press in the release lever when you do this or you'll sand that down too and then the pin won't lock in place. You wouldn't want that would you? The one thing I have noticed about the L96 is that the paint seems to be very thick all over it. As a result,internal features such as the bipod pin hole are pretty tight until you remove the paint. The spring is just fine on mine, once the paint has been removed. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I do recall you mentioning something about the pin in the other thread - it must have been that - I was just too lazy to go through that massive thread Thanks for the sandpaper idea i'll give that a try. Link to post Share on other sites
chameloon Posted November 18, 2006 Report Share Posted November 18, 2006 I used the Tanaka Bipods Pivot For Tanaka M700 (Den referecence : TM7014). Works perfectly fine. Link to post Share on other sites
The Big Bad Posted November 19, 2006 Report Share Posted November 19, 2006 has any one managed to replace the spring to bring it down to closer to 1j point as my local sites wont allow a sniper above 360fps thats about 1.2j if you want to know Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 Oh bugger!! I've just found out what the problem is!! I was packing it all away to give up for the night when I noticed a small bit of metal sitting in the polystyrene box - its part of the mag catch!! It's supposed to look like this... http://www.lovinit.f2s.com/Airsoft/magc.jpg ..but without me holding it in place it actually looks like this.... http://www.lovinit.f2s.com/Airsoft/magc2.jpg <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ok I think I've come up with a strong permanant fix to my broken mag catch problem. I have some flat metal brackets from something that are very thin but very strong. I have cut one down to the shape shown in the picture below (before and after pics for benefit of someone wanting to do similar).... I've also sanded the paint off from the area on the mag catch that I want to attach my piece of metal..... Now I just need to afix the 2 parts together (I still have the mag catch spring so the whole thing will work as it did originally). My question is - whats the best adhesive to get a good strong bond? Is this any good... http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=...C=SEO&U=Strat15 ...or should I be using a 2 part type? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Any metal epoxy should work given that large of a surface area to bind. Plus the spring on the latch itself doesn't exert much force as to pry the whole thing loose again. Just make sure to clamp the 2 pieces real well and have it cure for 24h. Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Erm... Before you go gluing anything I'd suggest you try building up the gun with that plate held in place with a bit of double-sided sticky tape. The magazine is a good fit into the gun and fitting that plate is going to make it an awful lot tighter. I guess you could correct this by unscrewing the barrel by a turn. Maybe that'd help but it might affect the seal of the nozzle into the hop-up as well. FWIW, JB Weld is my current favourite glue-stuff. Seems to be as good as the publicity would suggest. It's in a different league to Araldite. Link to post Share on other sites
Apex Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Does the aftermarket zero triggers you can get work in this copy ? What about tight bore barrels ? Just a few question seen as am looking at either getting this or getting gspec.... Drew Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperX Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Erm... Before you go gluing anything I'd suggest you try building up the gun with that plate held in place with a bit of double-sided sticky tape. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Checked that already and the clearance is fine. FWIW, JB Weld is my current favourite glue-stuff. Seems to be as good as the publicity would suggest. It's in a different league to Araldite. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> DOH! I'd already bought some Araldite Rapid Steel although it seems to have done the job just fine. I've just given it a splash of paint and once that is dry I'll give it a try. From what I can tell at the moment this fix has made it a lot stronger than it was originally - only time will tell. I'm also in the middle of spraying the stock but if it all gets finished by Sunday then I will be taking it to a skirmish. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_West Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Guys, could you please post detailed info about fixing the indicators? Both "mag empty" and "cocked" one? Link to post Share on other sites
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