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The Complete VSR Thread


TheBauer

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The sears seem to work fine and have done for the last 12 months on my vsr, which has been tuned prior to the one i have just done. I may go for the new trigger system in due course if mine starts playing up.

 

Whats the added advantage to using that system over the standard sear type?

 

Gav

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The standard (45 degree) pushes down on the sear whereas the upgraded (90 degree) pulls directly at the sear. The 90 degree, by design, puts less strain on the trigger/sear components, has less cylinder tilt (smoother bolt movement) and is more durable in the long run for very stiff springs. For springs between an M120 to M150 45 degree steel sears is greatly recommended. More than 150 and it's advisable to switch systems to a 90 degree.

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After switching to 90 degree in my first VSR i've sinced replaced the trigger mech and pistons in all my other VSR. I'll never go back to the 45 degree setup.

There's a few choices,

ASPUK EZ Trigger

Laylax Zero Trigger

PDI V-Trigger

Action Army Zero Trigger

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Not the manual safety, but the integral bolt safety that locks the trigger if the bolt handle isn't down. With any of the 90 degree trigger units on you can manually decock the gun as the trigger is never disengaged, but there's also risk of accidentally slamming the entire bolt forward while the bolt is still back.

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I case anyone is interested, I was having issues getting My PDI to hop- anything heavier than .30s even after putting smaller and stiffer O-rings on it. I recently installed a promy moundless rubber and flat hop nub thing and I now have the ability to use heavier BBs, unfortuneately I I don;t have anything heavy enough. It is over-hop-ing .30s dramatically, I feel I can use up to .40s maybe even heavier.

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Is yours the AEG hop version or regular? Have you tried using A+ hop if the latter? I'm able to get decent range out of mine on a 1.4J gun, flat trajectory on .30g and that's only with about 5-10% of the hop (TDC mod) turned on. I haven't tried .40s but if I turn the hop to 12-15 percent it sends .30s to the moon.

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Its the PDI AEG conversion hop-up, I kinda hate the damn thing as its so finicky, but I figured I'd try this as I had the parts laying around before I attempted the TDC mod.

 

I'll play around with this and if I can't get it working well I'll order an A+, what nub are you using with it? My weapon is also at 2.3J so...

 

I have some ideas for the TDC mod as well, but if you have any advice I'd appreciate it too.

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At the moment im using the standard plastic type A hop lever using .30s and its going ok for now.

 

Im going to put an order in for the 90 degree sear for delivery this weekend, but im wanting to go higher to .40s to stop the wind effecting the shots as much, so with the hop lever would it be a worth me buying a new type B lever or just filling in the gap with some epoxy to make my own type B. Or is there a slight difference in the adjustment angle of the slider?

 

Just trying to save myself £20 if i can do it myself.

 

Gav

 

This is the hop bucking im using at the moment.

 

http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-hop-chamber-packing-vsr-10-w-hold-type

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It's for the TDC (top dead center) mod which replaces the adjuster arm only I've done it differently in my case. Instead of drilling a hole right through the barrel, I have to rotate the entire hop chamber to expose the arm and its adjusting screw.

IMG_4137.jpg

 

Hop arm pulled up to show the extra material I added. It works even without it, but you have less for the grub screw to thread on to and will be more susceptible to stripping so I put it in as a precaution.

IMG_4138.jpg

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Hey guys. Just had to sand down a wooden rifle stock to allow it to fit a non-tapered PDI barrel. Now I find that my gun doesn't feed unless I am holding and pushing my magazine up as I cock it. 

 

I put my hand over the magazine and push it up. There is no movement or wobble. Very tight.

I then pull the bolt back, as the bolt comes back to the "click" point, I feel the magazine rise up by a mm or two.

I push the bolt back and it fires fine.

 

Another point: When the gun had the original barrel, not only did it feed correctly but when I screwed the screws in tight, everything sat correctly and worked.
NOW if I screw the back screw in tight, the bolt won't push all the way back in as the screw obviously stops it from doing so. Due to this I have to put an o-ring between the stock and the screw. This doesn't bother me, but I just don't understand the feeding issue... Does anyone have any suggestions before I sand MORE off the stock? 


Thanks

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This is a player that I followed during a skirm.
He played with an upgraded VSR.



This is his upgrade list of his VSR:

 

Tokyo Marui VSR-10

- laylax zero trigger

- laylax teflon cylinder
- laylax cylinderhead
- laylax reinforced ball beared spring guide
- pdi spring (499fps )
- laylax high pressure piston (red model)
- stock piston sears (searching upgrade)

- stock hopup chamber
- TM bucking
- deepfire PB 6.02

 

Scope:
MK4 leupold scope 3,5-10 X50

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@RenegadeCow

 

How are your results from that type of TDC mod? You still require shims inside the chamber? No left hook?


Also, what was the material you used within the arm?

 

Also, have you had any issues with the rotate chamber to adjust system?

 

Thanks

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TDC mod is pretty consistent although I may put in spacers on the hop arm itself as it has a little side to side play. Can't quantify how it affects precision though. At first shots were slightly hooking right past 40m which was corrected by removing material off the right side nub. Simple enough to do, just tedious as I have to rotate the hop unit every string until I got it right and it doesn't turn easily not from the TDC mod but because I have the entire length of the barrel fitted with foam rubber spacers. If you're to do it the same way, make sure the protruding screw has as smooth a face as possible and lubed as it can scratch the inside of the outer barrel every time you turn it which will eventually change the hop setting if the etch gets deep enough. The part I used to fill in the arm for the screw is just a chunk of abs plastic and super glued in place.

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  • 2 months later...

I have an interesting problem.

 

I have two TM magazines and if I load them by hand they work just fine.

But if I use a speed loader one of them is misfeeding every couple of BB’s.

If I take the magazine out, the BB falls out.

 

Has anybody experienced this before?

What is happening………

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Yesterday it happened only ones.........so the problem seems to correct it selves..........

Still very strange!

 

But this is the only little annoyance this far, I really love the VSR for its performance in the field.

Still completely stock, but so much fun because it is so quit...........

 

Will upgrade to a M110 spring this week.

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