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The Complete VSR Thread


TheBauer

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the mauser men have become more innovative than us!! :P

Real convenient too as the hole for the screw adjustment goes right under the rear leaf sight. Then again you could always go with the ridiculously expensive PDI hop chamber, the one with the dual arms. Adjustment on those is from the magwell. Or have DangerWerx make us something similar (and cheaper). 3D printed hop chamber from Shapeways?

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Ah yes, i did mention that angel customs had made a new bolt, and they do look very similar to the expensive PDI ones. I was put off by that though due to the one negative review stating that it didnt fit.

 

Real convenient too as the hole for the screw adjustment goes right under the rear leaf sight. Then again you could always go with the ridiculously expensive PDI hop chamber, the one with the dual arms. Adjustment on those is from the magwell. Or have DangerWerx make us something similar (and cheaper). 3D printed hop chamber from Shapeways?

 

The PDI chamber is a big no-no for me. I have trouble adjusting my one hop arm to perfection, so having two would just be fiddly and Id never get to play. The only advantage I see is you could use aeg barrels and hence from there you may be able to apply a r-hop system which have had rave reviews. In my opinion though, the vsr hop system is gloriously simple and has been noted for a long time as the best out there, and by simplifying it with a tdc mod I cant go wrong. Im looking at buying a new PDI outer barrel this weekend, so I may just attempt to do the TDC mod on my stock outer barrel for practice.

 

Im also looking at purchasing a PDI 6/05 inner barrel which i shall compare against my 6/03 laylax/prometheus barrel, due to l4b swearing that the he saw a ten-fold accuracy increase from one to the other.

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I must admit  i like the pdi chamber   in conjunction with the w hop and 6.01 inner     all means very nice straight flight ,ok it was a *badgeress* to set up  but all seems good at the moment  ,   my main problem is finding a new piston now  ,  how many have had dealings with x-fire and was it good /bad #? 

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No issues getting stuff from X-fire, just I have yet to overcome that slight feeling of disappointment I always seem to get when getting the bits. Trades not as deep as they look on the webpage, outer barrels lighter than you would hope, that sort of thing. Nothing wrong with them in terms of fitment etc.

 

Factor in shipping, duty, parcelfarce handling though...

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I believe customs duty to be the customs clearance charge, which is fine... but the one everyone has issues with is the parcelfarce ransom which is actually illegal if you inspect the postal services act 2000, and yet PF (the sneaky *******s) refuse to negotiate and/or argue. How do they get away with it, I hear you ask? Well... the government actually owns half of PF, so they're all getting lovely pension schemes from stolen money.

 

*I studied a module or two of company law, but I am no expert... These guys agree with me though. http://www.moneysupermarket.com/community/forums/t/parcelforce-clearance-ransom-charge-10938.aspx

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XFire were great for me.  UKBA were not.  I ordered a bolt handle and another part (cant remember what) for a CA m24 (the one I got from you docs90) and they shipped it very fast, considering they had been hit by an earthquake 3 days before..

 

UKBA converted YEN into GBP completely wrong, so I got a lovely slip demanding £600+ in VAT and fees.  Took a few weeks to sort out, was not fun.

 

 

 

Regarding the TDC mod shown a couple of pages back.  I have done it and so has my mate.  Works extremely well.  Let you launch .4's very consistently with the stock bucking and hop unit without issue.  Not the prettiest thing but it works. I have put a spring between my body and the screw head to put tension and prevent the screw moving.  My friend didnt do this.  Both work the same.

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Well lets hope a piston and and psiton base will be small enough to slip through and go via royal fail  /post service

 

Beat me to it SAM ,  I have emailed Xfire back  for two pistons and a few other bits ;) asking them to use another delivery company either ups or fedex    i have royal  mail /PF    so fingers crossed  

 

The next question , yes to kryloning the stock  ,but what about all the PDI receiver / bull barrel ....

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Not a fan of painted guns myself... and it makes them harder to sell IMO. Especially after a while when the krylon starts to go patchy or come off... Plus, if the barrel is fluted, will the krylon still get applied in a smooth layer or will it look bad?

 

You could always just get yourself a ghillie rap (or that god-awful tape - which can be removed)

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Bringing back the discussion from ~page 200....
Lube.

 

 

I was going to purchase some items from them too... a bull barrel, inner barrel, flash hider and cylinder head. It come to just over £200. I then saw logic and thought "i could buy a whole new gun with that". I just can't justify it.

Im going to wait until I'm with my gun again, see how it is performing, and if the performance can be improved any further than i shall do that before the exterior (bull barrel, etc,)

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Yes, I did it! I read all the pages……….I know I don’t have a life………..

 

But I noticed a pattern, nothing much changed in the 6 years from post 1 to this one!

So, I made a summary of the all the posts so you won’t have to do the same.

The summary consists of the knowledge and consensus of a lot of people who have done all the work for us; thank you very much for this!

 

What follows are the preferences people have to get an optimum performance out of the VSR-10, not necessarily the best (for you).

 

Barrel

VSR 10 G-spec with a 6.03-6.05 430mm barrel and barrel spacers

TK twist barrel for VSR running up to 350 fps (328 for perfect results)

Pro version: optimum barrel length 480-500mm

 

Hop up

Firefly hop up, with a Teflon tape seal or whipping or silicone sealant

  • Hard for higher FPS
  • Soft for lower FPS

TM stock is also good

9ball is a bit of a dark horse

 

Trigger

Trigger replacement with 90* piston

Lalax piston, use the original O-ring from TM piston

 

Spring

130 or 150 spring (170 if you are pushing it)

 

Cylinder

Standard or steel cylinder, not the Teflon one

Seal cylinder head with Teflon tape or Locktite

Air seal the nozzle with heat shrink or possible better with nail polish

Laylax heads do not always fit the standard TM cylinder

 

Spring guide

Metal spring guide, just to be sure, the original seems to last a long time though, even at higher fps.

 

Stock

Filling in all the voids in the stock with “something”; clay, mouse pad, builders foam, Dynamat, foam, hot glue, polyester resin, silicon kit

 

General

Stock parts are good up to 120 spring, after that you have to change the sears.

Do not mix Laylax and PDI parts

 

FAQ

To airbrake or not to airbrake?

  • Trade-off between more FPS and noise
  • Is good for lower velocities, but for higher velocities, loose the airbrake and make a tapered cylinder head. Add some foam padding to the cylinder head, Laylax or mouse pad.

Slam fire: Can be any of these or a combination:

  • Worn/damaged sears
  • Trigger group is not tight enough on the receiver (do not over tighten)
  • Metal (Lalax) spring guide unscrewed; tighten it with Locktight
  • Piston has been damaged; rotate piston

Difference G-Spec vs Pro

  • Different bolt handle
  • Shorter barrel
  • Has a scope rail
  • Has a suppressor
  • Has sling mounts

Barrel length

  • There is no real big difference between 303 or 430 mm, most people seem to favor the 430
  • The ideal length seems to be 480 mm (Pro)
  • Good results have been made with a 500 mm l96 barrel, very quiet and good accuracy

Double feeding

  • Look at the u-shaped piece in the hop up

Interesting links:

http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10197

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=6075

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Upgraded-Cylinder-Head-t87014.html

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=134101&st=0

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=82742.0

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=88662.0

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=74279.0

http://www.youtube.com/user/T00BIE?feature=watch

 

I probably forgot something, feel free to add on!

 

 

 

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The Hessel-Guide Mk II.

 

 

The summary consists of the knowledge and consensus of a lot of people who have done all the work for us; thank you very much for this!

 

What follows are the preferences people have to get an optimum performance out of the VSR-10, not necessarily the best (for you).

 

Barrel

G-Spec stock inner barrel length: 303mm

Pro Sniper stock inner barrel length: 430mm

"Long-type" barrels available at 554mm (Pdi, Edgi, laylax)

Barrel spacers seen as necessity for increased accuracy: ability to either buy or make your own (wrap paper around inner)

TK twist barrel for VSR running up to 350 fps (328 for perfect results).

Pro version: optimum inner barrel length 480-500mm (matched to volume of cylinder)

Pdi make outer barrels, for cosmetic affect only. (x-fire website)

 

Hop up

Firefly hop up, with a Teflon tape seal or whipping or silicone sealant.

  • Hard for higher FPS
  • Soft for lower FPS

TM stock hop up rubber is also good.

Tm chamber is one of the best out there. ALL of their rifles were shipped with their "updated version 2" chambers since the release of the g-spec. The black chamber is the same as the grey chamber, other than painted.

JG Bar10 hop chamber notorious for being junk though.

Laylax precision chamber doesn't seem to be any better than the original one.

The 9ball rubber is a bit of a dark horse - varied results.

Hop arm modification results unproven, but greater concensus towards the Dangerwerx type "B" hop arm (Flat one-piece bub) when using hard Firefly.
The "Flat" nub can also be achieved with the "biro-mod". -Filling in the gap between the two prongs with inner tubing from a pen.

Although hop up is good, for perfect results a lot of customizing must be undertaken. "Shimming" the chamber, or TDC mods advised.

PDI hop chamber - AEG barrels. TWO hop arms to affect trajectory up, down, left and right. PITA to correctly set up.

 

Trigger

Trigger group consists of four main parts we need to worry about: housing, piston sear, trigger sear and spring guide stopper. The latter three are prone to becoming worn with too much use/upgraded power.

Trigger replacement with 90* piston ideal (Zero trigger > M- trigger > V-trigger) (New action/EZ triggers not yet reviewed)

90 degree piston makes durability longer AND makes the bolt pull and trigger pull much easier.

For the popular laylax orange piston (comes with ztrig), use the original O-ring from TM piston. Orange piston's o-ring remarkably poor fit.

 

Spring

For 500 fps the 150 spring is ample (170 if you are pushing it). Not unheard of to gain 500 fps with a 130, with incredible compression and no loss of air flow.

 

Cylinder

Standard or steel cylinder, not the Teflon one --> I couldn't recommend more highly the teflon one, and have also heard others say the same - Rogue

Seal cylinder head with Teflon tape or Locktite to maintain air compression.

If continuing to use original cylinder head, taper the inside to increase air flow consistency, see bottom of Pdi head for ideal taper. 

Air seal the nozzle with heat shrink or possible better with nail varnish.

Laylax heads do not always fit the standard TM cylinder.

 

Spring guide

Metal spring guide, just to be sure, the original seems to last a long time though, even at higher fps.
If using a Laylax spring guide, loctite or teflon tape the shaft to the base, as if these two become loose it may cause slam firing.

 

Stock

Filling in all the voids in the stock with “something”; clay, mouse pad, builders foam, Dynamat, foam, hot glue, polyester resin, silicon kit. This adds weight, but removes vibrations.

JG Bar-10 rifle stock the same size and weight as vsr-10, but has a better rubbery texture to it.

Aftermarket stocks include fortress m40a3, Smokey's, Km-head wooden stocks, and not unheard of to convert Kar98 stocks to fit vsrs.

Fortress m40a3 - incredibly rare and breaks 99% of the time.

 

Bolt Handles

G-spec bolt handle considered more comfortable than Pro sniper bolt handle.

After market parts include: Laylax bolt handle, Pdi surgeon bolt handle, Speed m28 bolt handle, Angels customs bolt handle,

 

 

General

Stock parts are good up to 120 spring, after that you have to change the sears or purchase new trigger system.

It is unknown exactly which Laylax and PDI parts are able to be used in conjunction with one another. 
Warning: PDI use various different size cylinders, and hence there may be incompatibility issues in stock rifles.

 

FAQ

To airbrake or not to airbrake?

  • Trade-off between more FPS and noise
  • Is good for lower velocities, but for higher velocities, loose the airbrake and make a tapered cylinder head. Add some foam padding to the cylinder head, Laylax or mouse pad.

 

Slam fire: Can be any of these or a combination:

  • Worn/damaged sears
  • Trigger group is not tight enough on the receiver (do not over tighten)
  • Metal (Lalax) spring guide unscrewed; tighten it with Locktight
  • Piston has been damaged; rotate piston

 

Difference G-Spec vs Pro

  • Different bolt handle
  • Shorter barrel
  • Has a scope rail
  • Has a suppressor
  • Has sling mounts

 

Barrel length

  • There is no real big difference between 303 or 430 mm, most people seem to favor the 430
  • The ideal length seems to be 480 mm (Pro)
  • Good results have been made with a 500 mm l96 barrel, very quiet and good accuracy

 

Double feeding

  • Look at the u-shaped piece in the hop up for errors

 

The bolt Jams back whilst "open" and if I try and force it forwards, it slam fires.

  • Check within the cylinder. This problem usually occurs when the o-ring around the piston is too loose and jams on the cylinder wall. Swap out the o-ring.

 

My BBs seem to swerve off to the right after 40/50m.

  • ah, the notorious Vsr-spiral. Due to the inconsistencies found within the chamber, this is not uncommon. There are various methods to attempt to eradicate this, from shimming the hop up to attempt to reduce side to side movement of the hop arm (see Noobie's bar10 guide), to drilling a pin straight down and onto the arm (TDC mod). 
  • Other answers include swapping the hop chamber for a PDI chamber, which uses AEG barrels and hop bucking. This chamber uses TWO hop arms, so you can modify the hop to up-->down AND left-->right. Although an absolute bi*** to get set correctly, has had pretty decent results.

Interesting links:

http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10197

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=6075

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Upgraded-Cylinder-Head-t87014.html

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=134101&st=0

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=82742.0

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=88662.0

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=74279.0

http://www.youtube.com/user/T00BIE?feature=watch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPCUmPNOuYg
 (TDC mod)

 

I probably forgot something, feel free to add on!

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wondering if anyone else had the problem that there outerbarrel threads stripped the first time they removed it like mine did hasnt affected anything but i wasnt pleased

 

Did you leave the screw in? i've seen a couple with stripped threads because they thought they only needed to loosen the locking screw.

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