The Complete VSR Thread

[renegadecow]

But whats the point? Any advantages of this over tdc?

 

Image doesn't work but I'm assuming he's referring to the PDI hop chamber. It addresses the same issue that the TDC mod does, only you can adjust for absolute centeredness in how the hop aligns with the bb. However, a PITA to set. Technically you can adjust for centeredness using the TDC mod too but requires manual manipulation of the hop arm.

[Rogue]

Image doesn't work but I'm assuming he's referring to the PDI hop chamber. It addresses the same issue that the TDC mod does, only you can adjust for absolute centeredness in how the hop aligns with the bb. However, a PITA to set. Technically you can adjust for centeredness using the TDC mod too but 8requires manual manipulation of the hop arm.

 

 

No I was quoting the oic three posts above mine. I didn't quote the picture because that's against the rules. The originaln definitely isn't the pdi though, its a two part hop concept.

[Geri]

It's for reduce moving parts and for more accurate adjust, and of course these arms are fit more tight in the chamber with no loose.

[Rogue]

First of all: JESUS F CHRIST.

Make sure you don't tighten your rail screws, people.

 

 

Second: look what I picked up. Took a little bit of woodwork to get the zero-trigger housing to fit. Feels gorgeous. Speed m28 handle  feels nice to hold, and seems much longer. Square edges get a little getting used to. Also had to file it down by 2mm or so on the back-side, as it didn't quite go down into the locking position correctly.

 

 

 

Third, selling my vsr-10 style wooden stock over at zero-in. The one I posted in this thread earlier.

[WestyIII]

Very nice, where did that come from?  

[Rogue]

The handle was from airsoft world and the stock was from airsoftsniperparts.com's facebook page. The owner puts up lots of nice parts and upgraded vsrs. Had a beautiful m40a3 by fortress for sale which I told my best mate to buy, eventhough he doesn't own a vsr yet!! Haha

[Rogue]

As an example on a recent order:

 

Goods - £272

Customs Duty £14

Import VAT - £63

Parcelfarce Ransom - £13.50

Shipping - £19.60

Total - approx £380

 

Just put an order in for £73.76 at x-fire so will let you all know how shipping and handling compares to the above.

 

Had to purchase a 690 light outer barrel, as the previously shown damage done to my barrel's threads actually mis-shaped the inside of the barrel too, meaning I cannot remove the hop unit and barrel.

 

Really need to be careful with those rail screws, guys. Any idea's on how to prevent this from happening again? Is it just a case of cutting the screws down, or are the four screws on top of the rails different sizes?

[Rogue]

Hey guys, sorry for the triple post, but I've gotten past the point of caring- I feel like the emo robot from hitch-hikers' guide to the galaxy. I'm all sad because believe it or not I've managed to break a zero-trigger.

Can someone please inform me whether they know it is possible to find a replacement for this spring, and also which metal strat the other end attaches to?

 

EDIT: Found that the spring is the same as the one found in version 2 aeg spring sets. YAY!
Now, where does it attach to?!

 

Thanks

 

[docs90]

If its a zero trigger should it not have a 90o piston sear ,if that's the case I would have thoughtthat sear needs to be vertical and look there for spring mounts

[Rogue]

Yeah in this pic the second sear trigger sear is moved left. The whole left section swings back and forth left and right. I believe as you pull the trigger, it pushes the sear into the position you can see it in now?

 

I would assume then, that the spring attaches to the metal bar directly above the trigger, rather than to the left of the trigger...

[Jolas]

So i finaly i discovered that my VSR's inside, I was a bit surprised at the quality of the material she had.
a few times I noticed that the BBs deviated very sideways, ie the target almost always failed: D

but the following list of material that lies within it.

 

She has Cylinder + Head Cylinder + Firefly Spring Guide, is no longer a kit that is sold.
The piston is the red laylax.
The sears seem laylax too.

The innerbarrel precision Laylax 6:03

changed to one of the spring's 400fps, modified the piston head to become "silent", the stock filled with rags and sponge to reduce the "echo" produced by the firing, is now a treat, use the .28 madbull BBs.

[fuzzhead]

my vsr has had new sears and since they have gone in there have been problems I did the necessary filling that the shs sears needed but when I cock the rifle the trigger just wont fire the gun it seems like the trigger just has a few mm before it would let go of the trigger sear so it could drop down but doesn't but when the trigger mech is away from the gun it works fine.

im needing the rifle tomorrow and i cant seem to fix it at all.

  

 

[Rogue]

Notes For anyone taking apart/putting back together a zero trigger.

 

 

First: look at picture above.

The silver metallic bit at an angle in the top left corner I refer to as the piston sear.

The horizontal mettalic bit it is attached to (quite long) i refer to as the trigger sear.

The horizontal metallic bit to the right of that, which has the roller ball, I refer to as the trigger block.

The cylindrical pins I have referred to as "struts".

The spring that is broken SHOULD be attached to the strut to the left of the trigger. Not the one above as previously suggested.

 

• There are 6 screws holding the trigger onto the golden blocks attached to your rifle. DON'T remove the 4th set (7th and 8th screw) until you are ready for all hell to break loose. The springs inside are tensed against the housing. Waiting to spring into YO FACE.
• There are 6 or 7 silver housing "struts" which are very loose and wobbly. One end goes into one side of the trigger box, the other end goes into the other side of the trigger box, and various springs/sears may attach in the middle.
• There are TWO black struts, and these have two very small shims on each. These go either side of the spring guide stopper (imagine like: ,l'  ) with one shim on each strut against each wall of the trigger box. Your spring guide stopper should run up the middle of them.
• IF both of these shims are on the same side of the trigger box, your spring guide stopper won't be able to be pushed all of the way up, and you'll know this as you won't get your trigger guard back on!
• There are two springs inside: one to return your trigger to its primary position, and one to return your trigger sear into it's primary position. The trigger spring attaches to the screw behind the trigger block, and the metal housing rod beneath it. The second spring attaches to between the two metal vertical struts protruding from the trigger sear, to the metal housing strut beaneath it.
• These small springs can be replaced with the smallest springs in the version 2 gearbox set (although you'll have to awkwardly bend the loop around by 90 degrees- no harm done.

 

1. If you are confused about the action: I was WRONG in my above post. The trigger sear will only be in that position and the piston sear will only be at that angle when cocking the gun (to allow the piston past) When you pull the trigger it all moves the OTHER way (to the right).
2. As you pull the trigger, that silver roller ball rolls up the side of the trigger sear, and due to the pressure of the piston acting <-- upon the piston sear, the whole trigger sear wants to move --> and slides underneath the trigger block (with the roller ball on top I believe).
3. The springs then act to pull the trigger sear, as well as the trigger block, back and they line up again like:  --o--

[frogfish]

Sorry for the lack of ability in finding my own answer, but can someone link me to someplace where I can educate myself on the difference between a 45 degree trigger vs. a 90 degree?

[bitchtits]

http://www.x-fire.org/vsr10/e.triggerproblem.html

 

 

Also did anyone notice the new m40 style stocks soon to be released, being pdi the will be expensive but quality..only visible on the Japanese version of the site for some reason

[Rogue]

Sorry for the lack of ability in finding my own answer, but can someone link me to someplace where I can educate myself on the difference between a 45 degree trigger vs. a 90 degree?

 

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=97510.0

[gavin.starr]

Hi guys, I know this is gonna sound like a cop out but I really don't have the time to read through 234 pages of the vsr thread.

 

I'm looking into upgrading my vsr g spec as some of you have mentioned that you can ping a can around at 50 meters, I can't get mine to do that at 25 an even that is pushing it. I'm helping out setting up an airsofting site so I want my vsr up to scratch before it opens, as I pretty much only ever snipe.

 

The question is, what is worth spending my money on and what isnt , I have a current budget of around 200 quid but that can raise if need be.

 

I want my accuracy to be good at hitting a body at 60~70 meters as currently it won't get any where near that. The Bb's seem to drift left or right more than up and down so I'm thinking the hop bucking would be a good place to start.

 

Cheers

 

Gav

[gavin.starr]

With regards to the angle in degrees on the hop up bucking what's the difference between say a 70 75 and an 80 degree

Apart from the obvious do they just accommodate for a heavier bb to put more spin on it?

[gavin.starr]

Sussed it

[renegadecow]

Sounds like you're using .20s if you ask me. Mind putting down what it is you currently have in it?

[gavin.starr]

The bbs im using are these, http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?cPath=264&products_id=2365

 

I pulled apart my VSR last night and it has the teflon cylinder and white nylon looking cylinder guides, standard hop unit, standard barrel, and everything else is pretty much standard to apart from the cylinder and the piston, I dont know what the piston is as i havent pulled that bit apart yet. the metal part of it is starting to get a bit worn so ive ordered a new one and a few new parts too.

 

I have olso ordered the W bucking like some one mentioned, but with regards to the hop up lever what type is the best type A or B?

 

I will up load some pics soon as they are just uploading onto photo bucket.

 

Gav

[gavin.starr]

 

 

internals of the cylinder

 

 

 

The bearing at the bottom lo longer spins but im sure i can get that moving again, and im pretty sure my spring is fewked as its all wavey.

[renegadecow]

Everything looks to be in order and even that wonky spring shouldn't really affect precision by much. Have you tried cleaning out the barrel and hop? I mean a deep clean as grease/oil can get trapped there to throw things off.

 

edit:

Hold on, just checked your bbs. Aren't those sort teflon coated? I remember trying those out (different brand) and they were ok for a while until some of  the teflon coming off the bbs mucked up the hop and needed regular cleaning.

[gavin.starr]

Everything is clean as a whistle, put it all back together and its still the same, What BB's would you reccomend.

 

Ill wait until my new stuff arrives and try it again. Think im going to get a new spring anyway so what would be the best to use to achieve a good figure just under 500fps?

 

Cheers

 

Gav

[farrasdevell]

Do you have upgraded trigger sears in there too? you might struggle to hit 500ps for very long without them.

Can you supply links to the ordered parts? I deally i would order a nineball purple or a firefly hard hop rubber. I would go with the type A unless you are going to start using .4g bbs then you need the type B.

The .3's you have are teflon coated and it leaves residue in your hop which can affect the accuracy.

 

I would also recommend http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3331958 instead of messing about with sears just go to the top of the pile.