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The Complete APS 2/96 Thread


The Chef

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I believe all 3 of us have had APS2 systems and all moved on to other designs, as APS are not quite as good as more modern rifles?

 

Remember barring the SUPER 9 (which doesn't really count :P ) the APS2 was the first serious bolt action for general use. Modern offerings of the VSR are based on the crude design and improved.

 

Just my own opinion :huh:

 

Lastly will justify my writing here by suggesting you read my old REVIEW

 

Good Hunting ;)

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Both systems work on a cylinder pulling and locking the piston back with sears holding it ready to fire. The trigger mech disengages the sear. The only major differences are the HOP. The VSR has revolutionary V HOP and achieves much greater shot to shot consistancy.

 

I don't think any current HOP system you can upgrade to on the APS is as good as the TM VSR HOP.

 

Many players still use APS2 and the clones of it and it is still a servicable rifle. I got many long ranged hits often first shot with my old SPORTER. I customised the HOP myself and achieved better results but it was never as consistant as a VSR.

 

This MOD is mentioned in my review above.

 

I find the resonance of the APS2 series is not to my liking when the rifle shudders after a shot if high power springs are fitted.

 

This post is pure opinion, sorry to offend any APS2 users. ;)

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  • 2 months later...

my apologies The Chef.

 

Here is my setup for the Maruzen APS Type96

 

Upgrades/Modification:

PSS96 Teflon Cylinder

PSS96 Taper Cylinder Head

PSS96 3-element Piston

PSS96 New Power Accuracy Piston Head

***sp spring

PSS96 Smooth Spring Guide

Zero Trigger

PSS96 Barrel Spacers

PDI Hopup

6.01 PDI tight Barrel

hard hopup rubber

3-9x40 scope

samurai bipod

 

took awhile to get all parts but now, very satisfied with it

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Hm... after using my APS-2 for the first time today, I would say it is a very skirmishable rifle. It doesn't shoot completely straight but it's fairly consistant when you're shooting an area...

 

I really have only two gripes. One is the hopup, it's a real PITA to get to...the other is the lack of sling mount on the bottom, because you can't put a bipod there (and now I have to have someone drill a hole through the stock).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a Maruzen APS type 96 with the following upgrades

 

PDI Fluted Outer Barrel

Maruzen Bipod

Leapers Scope

Guarder Steel Bolt Handle

 

PDI Inner Barrel Spacers

TGS Dual Bearing Trigger System

 

Cylinder set 1: OK 500FPS set with FF Power Accuracy Piston Head

 

Cylinder set 2: FF Teflon Cylinder, FF Tapered Cylinder Head, FF 3 Element Piston, FF Power Accuracy Head, SPR380% Spring, FF Spring Guide

 

The OK cylinder set is well worth the price, compared to the FF set I purchased in pieces it was much much cheaper and works very well. Power output of the OK set is chronoing 540fps steadily with 0.20g BBs on my Guarder 2000. I have not yet chronod the FF set.

 

Some pics:

 

APSType96_001.sized.jpg

 

APSType96_002.sized.jpg

 

APSType96_003.sized.jpg

 

APSType96_004.sized.jpg

 

APSType96_005.sized.jpg

 

I am very happy with the performance and build quality of this rifle. I highly recommend it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Have any of you had a problem with the zero trigger breaking in your 96's?

 

I know mine has. The actual trigger, as in the thing you pull with your finger (you wouldn't believe how many people ask me that), definitely broke. It's connected to the inner mechanism by looping around another little bar inside, and that loop is the part that snapped. Can't figure it out.

 

Any ideas as to how to fix it?

 

I'm running all laylax parts, 210 spring, cylinder and head, piston cup, spring guide, the works. Let me know.

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Have any of you had a problem with the zero trigger breaking in your 96's?

 

I know mine has.  The actual trigger, as in the thing you pull with your finger (you wouldn't believe how many people ask me that), definitely broke.  It's connected to the inner mechanism by looping around another little bar inside, and that loop is the part that snapped.  Can't figure it out.

 

Any ideas as to how to fix it?

 

I'm running all laylax parts, 210 spring, cylinder and head, piston cup, spring guide, the works.  Let me know.

 

are you referring to this one?

lay_pt_pss96ss.jpg

Its called a spring guide stopper

 

wgcshop has them in stock. but in the mean time try using your stock spring guide stopper. I suggest you lower your spring rating too

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Does anyone know where I can find an exploded diagram of the APS2 stock trigger mech? I took it apart to have a look at the innerds out of curiosity, but I'm having trouble putting it back together.

 

Just a time saving thing really, I'll probably figure it out in the meantime but a lil help would be highly appreciated :)

 

----

 

EDIT: I take that back, I've figured out what the problem is. The stock trigger sear snapped in two at the swivel point, and not knowing what a T.S. looked like I thought they were 2 separate parts :mellow:

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Bloody hell that was an experience...

 

For everyone who may encounter a similar problem, the diagram shown on the previous page does NOT accurately show how the springs are meant to be positioned. Said diagram suggests that you position the springs so that both point outwards when visible on top of the trigger unit. This is NOT the case!

 

Imagine you are holding the gun and looking down the barrel, the two springs need to be positioned as shown in my attatched diagram.

 

What this does is keep the piston sear suspended in a central position. If there is no support at the front of the sear, you will not be able to cock the rifle as the piston will not catch. If there is no support at the back of the sear, then while the rifle may cock once or twice, it is free to rotate backwards and out of reach of the piston.

 

If anyone wants a more detailed explanation I will take some photos to demonstrate.

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