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The Chef

The Complete APS 2/96 Thread

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Why'd you need to open up the cylinder?

The hop-up lives in the rear part of the barrel.

 

Take it out of the stock, unscrew the receiver from the barrel (might require you to loosen a grub-screw somewhere in the front of the receiver), remove the mag catch, unscrew the muzzle cap and gently push on the inner barrel and the whole lot should slide out of the back of the barrel.

 

With the barrel and hop-up in front of you, peer down the hop-up and see if there's any crud in there.

I have no idea what use velcro might be in modifying the hop-up.

I'd suggest cutting 2 short lengths of silicone insulation and lying them side by side in the hop-up slot and allowing the lever to press on them. You might have to shorten the lever to allow this to work.

If you do this it'll give you a home-made V hop-up.

 

Works too. ;-)

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Stealth I think you got a little confused, I asked about the cylinder, Smelson asked about the hop up. Speaking of which, on mine I looked down the hop and barrel while turning the screw and I saw no difference, do you think I have a poor Hop unit, or am I missing something?

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Stealth I think you got a little confused, I asked about the cylinder, Smelson asked about the hop up.

 

I was responding to the following 2 posts, by the same person.

 

ok. i have a UTG type 96, i've been having problems with inacurate and inconsistent bb's...

 

im not sure, i know its not easy to open up the "gear box" (piston housing? i dunno) cause its a clone and such.

 

Anyway, I'd be interested to hear if anybody can confirm if the Warrior L96 cylinder is sealed or not.

I am thinking of buying a 2nd gun to give me a 328fps bolt that I can swap over easily.

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Hiya,

 

I've just bought a second hand Maruzen L96 which I'll be getting soon. As soon as it arrives I'll want to give it a thorough clean, the previous owner had been using straight .36s and I heard they can leave a nasty residue on the hop and inner barrel.

 

I assume cleaning the barrel will be the same as that of an AEG, but how will I go about cleaning the hop, does it have to be taken apart etc (it's a PDI by the way)? Any advice on cleaning the hop would be greatly appreciated, as well as any other maintenance tips and tricks for the type 96.

 

I'm also going to be installing some barrel spacers advice on how to do that properly would be good too.

 

Cheers in advance,

 

Sluke

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I've just bought a second hand Maruzen L96 which I'll be getting soon.  As soon as it arrives I'll want to give it a thorough clean, the previous owner had been using straight .36s and I heard they can leave a nasty residue on the hop and inner barrel.

 

I'm also going to be installing some barrel spacers advice on how to do that properly would be good too.

 

 

Hi Sluke,

 

The 'residue' you're referring to is graphite. This will only be present in the barrel if the previous owner of the rifle was firing the graphite-coated .36g bb's. But you'll want to clean the barrel anyway as it's bound to be dirty, so it's all academic :)

 

As for the barrel spacers, well in my APS2 I have one spacer that sits just in front of the hop unit, and another that sits just behind the silencer thread.

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Ah...I'm having trouble with my utg mk96. I have undone both screws but the receiver only lifts up about an inch and gets stuck. I haven't had the gun for long but if someone could possibly help me out it would be nice. Oh by the way sorry to bother your discussion...

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I'm also going to be installing some barrel spacers advice on how to do that properly would be good too.

 

Cheers in advance,

 

Sluke

Personally, I'd suggest fitting the barrel spacers 1/3rd and 2/3rd of the way along the barrel.

There's no point in fitting them at the very back and very front cos those places are already supported by the hop-up and muzzle.

 

The best way to fit the barrel spacers is using something like a length of copper pipe that fits over the inner barrel. Standard plumbing pipe is ideal.

Failing that, the solid rod out of a loading tube might work.

 

Fit the hop-up and inner barrel into the outer barrel then plug the inner barrel with tissue paper, spray a bit of silicone spray all around the inside of the outer barrel then remove the tissue.

 

Measure how far along you want the spacers. As I say, I'd suggest one about 6" from the back and another about 6" from the front.

Push the spacer into the barrel then slip the tube over the inner barrel and use it to push the spacer as far down the tube as you need.

Repeat for the 2nd spacer.

If you're using a solid rod rather than a tube, push one side then the other to work the spacer down the barrel evenly.

Job done.

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Anyone have tried the APS2 that is on evike.com the one that is said to be from JG/AGM?

 

 

I have one and have had it for about a month. Its great so far. Good to hit a chest at about 225ft (with PHX match grade .28s). Get some .3s I'd say but .28 are great. Theres too much grease so wipe some out and it does a lot better; about 425fps w/.28s.

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Around 8 pounds, but mine's 10 with accessories: bipod, scope, burlap...whatever else u wanna put on it.  No more than 12  :wide-eyed:  pounds tops I'd say.

Indeed.

 

The Warrior L96 comes with a bunch of weights hidden in the stock to make it feel heavier.

By the time you've fitted a scope, bipod and the other bits and bobs you will probably want to take the weights out!

 

The UTG and WELL clones use the VSR parts.

S'cuse me?

 

Nonsense. The UTG and Well L96 guns are copies of the Maruzen APS Type 96 and, as such are 100% compatible with parts for that gun.

 

I have no idea what VSR parts might fit the Maruzen/Well L96, if any.

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The AMG variant of the L96 is based off of the VSR. I have a Maruzen L96 with all the fixings but I have always wanted a version with the "V" hop up. I don't know why I haven't just bought one already, something about the stock of the L96 just strikes a cord with me. By the by this is my first post ever.

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Bit of a noob question but still...

 

My L96 was shooting at 498fps. I have just fitted a new hop sleeve and found it's now shooting at 518fps. I assume the sleeve is sealing on the nozzle slightly better than the old one.

 

It need to be 500fps or less for my site.

 

I've fired at least 100 shots through it this afternoon and every one is 518/519fps so I am pretty sure the increase is permenant rather than just parts settling in.

 

My first thought was to use a dremel to grind a small amount off the walls of the spring, at one end, to weaken it slightly.

 

Anybody have any clever ideas for reducing the velocity by about 20fps?

Just wondering really. If nobody comes up with anything I'll just attack the spring with a dremel.

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I need some help with my L96 badly. I have the UTG version (not the best I know but I put some work into the stock to make is better) and I installed a PDI hop up chamber and a KM 6.3 tightbore (didn't have enough for PDI). So my problem is that now that I have these two pieces installed with the standard cylinder it seems like I am getting no hop at all. I get great level shots up to about 200 or so feet. Here is the odd part to all of this, every shot is way off to the right, bar none. I tried adjusting the scope and that didn't help. I tried adjusting the hop up so that it was heavier on the left side, nothing there either. I am really stuck at the moment and really frustrated with it as well because with all of the take down I have been doing I stripped the mag catch screw pretty badly so now I can't even get that all the way down. I am about three inches away from buying a new gun all together with all of the problems this thing is giving me!

 

I love my l96 as it matches the rest of my kit, my father was a Royal Marine before he moved state side and that is what I play as. I get decked out in his old DPM and I wanted noting more than to use as a AW.388 or as close as I could get.

 

Is my hop up bad? Should I buy a better barrel? Should I give up on this gun? Any advice is welcome! PM me as well if you want.

 

-Krash

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Indeed.

 

The Warrior L96 comes with a bunch of weights hidden in the stock to make it feel heavier.

By the time you've fitted a scope, bipod and the other bits and bobs you will probably want to take the weights out!

S'cuse me?

 

Nonsense. The UTG and Well L96 guns are copies of the Maruzen APS Type 96 and, as such are 100% compatible with parts for that gun.

 

I have no idea what VSR parts might fit the Maruzen/Well L96, if any.

 

Ah, :flamed: I thought someone was asking? I gave an answer to a question about a gun that I do own . They are aesthetically copies of the Maruzen, but the internals are VSR compatible... :D ...

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Bit of a noob question but still...

 

My L96 was shooting at 498fps. I have just fitted a new hop sleeve and found it's now shooting at 518fps. I assume the sleeve is sealing on the nozzle slightly better than the old one.

 

It need to be 500fps or less for my site.

 

I've fired at least 100 shots through it this afternoon and every one is 518/519fps so I am pretty sure the increase is permenant rather than just parts settling in.

 

My first thought was to use a dremel to grind a small amount off the walls of the spring, at one end, to weaken it slightly.

 

Anybody have any clever ideas for reducing the velocity by about 20fps?

Just wondering really. If nobody comes up with anything I'll just attack the spring with a dremel.

 

Yah right here...

TM Velocity Reducer

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I appreciate the thought but, having spent an obscene amount of money on a fluted barrel and an authentic L96 muzzle brake, I'm not keen to dump it in preference for a god-awful looking velocity reducer.

 

Besides anything else, the VR is ok as a temporary measure but I don't think it's a good idea to fit it permenantly though.

Also, given the way the VR works, I'm not sure it'd have a good effect on accuracy of a sniper rifle.

 

I gotta say, however, that I never thought about the VR for a second. Well done for making me realise there's more than one way to skin a cat. :)

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I appreciate the thought but, having spent an obscene amount of money on a fluted barrel and an authentic L96 muzzle brake, I'm not keen to dump it in preference for a god-awful looking velocity reducer.

 

Besides anything else, the VR is ok as a temporary measure but I don't think it's a good idea to fit it permenantly though.

Also, given the way the VR works, I'm not sure it'd have a good effect on accuracy of a sniper rifle.

 

I gotta say, however, that I never thought about the VR for a second. Well done for making me realise there's more than one way to skin a cat. :)

 

Actually, speaking of accuracy, I've heard it can increase it. On account of being able to reduce speed but keep the spin up high. So you, theoretically, can shoot heavier bbs with less of a drop in fps.

 

But I would just get heavier bbs to slow down the speed. I went from 450fps w/.25s to 410fps w/ .28s if that helps any.

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