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The Chef

The Complete APS 2/96 Thread

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Since my L96 is on its way in the mail, I tought id ask som questions in its "thread".

 

Anyone know if the Hopup in the Well L96 is poor? And should I be thinking of buying a upgrade right away?

 

I hear a lot of rumours about shots going weering to one side? (Due to hopup)

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Since my L96 is on its way in the mail, I tought id ask som questions in its "thread".

 

Anyone know if the Hopup in the Well L96 is poor? And should I be thinking of buying a upgrade right away?

 

I hear a lot of rumours about shots going weering to one side? (Due to hopup)

The only way to "replace" the hop-up of a T96/L96 is to buy a PDI hop-up and people have reported that they are as bad as the original one.

The main reason to buy a PDI hop-up is cos it allows you to fit normal AEG barrels.

 

Unless you plan on going nuts and buying a PDI 6.01 barrel you're as well just keeping the standard hop-up and buying a 6.03 barrel specifically for the T96 or L96.

 

Your shots will curve for 2 reasons:-

1) Because your hop-up is applying hop unevenly.

2) Because your barrel isn't aligned properly.

 

1) The L96 hop-up has a crude H design. If it isn't applying hop equally it can cause the BBs to spin off-centre and curve.

I fixed this by filing off the H section and then fitting a home-made hop-up bucking.

Somebody else got good results by using a tiny bit of soft velcro as a bucking.

 

2) There's a horrid spindly plastic frame thatlocates the barrel in the hop-up. You've only got to look at it funny and it'll break.

It is not at all secure and it's very easy for your barrel to be fitted with the hole for the hop-up at 11 o'clock or 1 o'clock, if you see what I mean.

You just need to apply the hop, loosen the gland nut on the front of the hop and then twist the barrel VERY slowly a tiny bit one way and then the other.

You should eventually see a position where the hop-up is bulging down into the barrel from exactly the top. Tighten the nut again and see what happens.

If it still shoots to one side, try twisting the barrel a little bit more in one direction to see if it gets better or worse.

 

As you can see, sniper rifles tend to be a bit more "make it up as you go along" than mainstream AEGs.

Thing is, with AEGs, a lot of people just buy a shopping list of recommended bits and convince themselves that there's an improvement.

With sniper rifles, people have admitted that some of the "upgrades" either aren't neccesary or don't do what they say on the tin.

 

As a result, tuning up a sniper rifle tends to be a bit of a personal thing. The best you can hope for is that the gun you pick will be consistant and reasonably well made.

Beyond that, it's up to the owner to get advice (as you now are) and then just play around and figure out what works best for you. :)

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My l96 was curving also, but i fixed it and it is still stock with no mods at all. My hop up unit is metal, by the way (UTG mk96). I took the hop up unit apart and realigned it all. I centered the barrel in the rubber sleeve and then centered the rubber sleeve in the hop up unit. I also equally spaced the barrel spacers, and now I shoot straight to maximum range, which I past 75yds. It also helps if you use good bbs, I'd recommend phx .28gs, but whatever you like or if someone else recommends some you might try those.

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As you can see, sniper rifles tend to be a bit more "make it up as you go along" than mainstream AEGs.

Thing is, with AEGs, a lot of people just buy a shopping list of recommended bits and convince themselves that there's an improvement.

With sniper rifles, people have admitted that some of the "upgrades" either aren't neccesary or don't do what they say on the tin.

 

As a result, tuning up a sniper rifle tends to be a bit of a personal thing. The best you can hope for is that the gun you pick will be consistant and reasonably well made.

Beyond that, it's up to the owner to get advice (as you now are) and then just play around and figure out what works best for you. smile.gif

 

AMEN :D ...

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Aha! Thanks for exellent reply! I guess I will just have to go DIY on my rifle then >D

 

I just found out they use it in the Norwegian army aswell, so this rifle just gets better and better ;)

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Got my Well last night. And after I picked it all apart, and inserted the hopup the right way, it shoots very nice :)

 

l96aw5.JPG

l96aw4.JPG

l96aw3.JPG

l96aw2.JPG

l96aw1.JPG

 

I used this "takedown" guide :

http://www.andreasolesen.dk/airsoft/anmeld...rior/index.html

Its in danish, but pictures says it all.

(Oh, and im Norwegian, so it wasnt hard).

Seems the guns are pretty much identical.

 

Also, my gun only had 1 barrelspacer :( (not sure if it matters?).

The bipod was utter ######. But I guess.. You get what you pay for. (5$). I also suspect the RIS on top of the gun was a bit shady. You can clearly see it has been spraypainted, and it feels a bit wobbly.

 

Haven't chronoed it yet, but it shoots _very_ hard, and my friend had no problems hitting my back from 50meters. The sodacan test shows it pops the bottom with ease, and makes a good dent in the other side.

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If there's anyone out there who feels like putting this linked takedown into English I'm sure there'd be plenty of people who's find it extreamly helpful. I know pictures speak a thousand words but............... being a newbie to taking anything like this apart English text would make all the differance.....

 

(fingers crossed)

 

I tried bablefish webpage translater but they don't have Danish. The only thing I know thats Danis is the bacon adds on TV.

 

This is the best I can find.

http://www.tranexp.com:2000/InterTran?url=...from=dan&to=eng

 

 

 

 

Got my Well last night. And after I picked it all apart, and inserted the hopup the right way, it shoots very nice :)

 

l96aw5.JPG

l96aw4.JPG

l96aw3.JPG

l96aw2.JPG

l96aw1.JPG

 

I used this "takedown" guide :

http://www.andreasolesen.dk/airsoft/anmeld...rior/index.html

Its in danish, but pictures says it all.

(Oh, and im Norwegian, so it wasnt hard).

Seems the guns are pretty much identical.

 

Also, my gun only had 1 barrelspacer :( (not sure if it matters?).

The bipod was utter ######. But I guess.. You get what you pay for. (5$). I also suspect the RIS on top of the gun was a bit shady. You can clearly see it has been spraypainted, and it feels a bit wobbly.

 

Haven't chronoed it yet, but it shoots _very_ hard, and my friend had no problems hitting my back from 50meters. The sodacan test shows it pops the bottom with ease, and makes a good dent in the other side.

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will aps parts fit in my mp001?

 

if so which ones should i get to improve power and accuracy?

 

thanks

 

I'm not sure which parts fit the mpoo1, maybe aps and maybe vsr, but power and accuracy: tbb (tight bore barrel), teflon tape mod (google teflon tape mod), i WOULD say a spring but with clones you would need to upgrade other things such as sears, spring guide, and a few other things as well before a spring WOULD BE safe. Someone else will post some other things also probably.

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Anyone know how hard spring I can use in the Well? Without buying a new triggersystem?

 

I know its a M140 spring right now..

 

(Oh, and ofc I would use a FPS reducer, since it is to hot in the uk, its just a theoretical question)

 

:D

 

Also, there is this quick tip: use greenstuff on the inside of the triggersystem, to make it more rigid?

 

http://www.andreasolesen.dk/airsoft/guides...rior/index.html

 

1.JPG

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Now i ask someone who can tell for sure how things are. DOES UTG type 96 use VSR or APS internal upgrade parts (trigger parts, cylinder parts etc)?

 

And ive heard that maruzen type 96 is very accurate but is utg as accurate as maruzen?

 

Thanks you.

 

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Hey guys,

 

Got a bit of a problem over here. I recently took apart my aps2 ex to paint it (painting went well and all looks great). The trouble is I had to take apart the trigger mechanism and now that I've put it back together (using the exploded diagram on the first page to help) it wont engage the spring.

 

In other words, i pull back the bolt (it's all upgraded internally) and normally it would click into place and you could feel that you no longer have to use too much strength to hold it back -something (piston sear?) takes the strain of the spring. Well this no longer happens. I pull back the bolt and nothing happens, when i return it to its firing position and pull the trigger nothing happens. I have taken it apart since to have a closer look with no luck.

 

It's probably an obvious mistake and it could be something to do with the springs? At worst there could be damage inside the cylinder however this is unlikely as all was fine before i took apart the rifle (leaving the cylinder in one piece) and it obviously hasn't been under stress since...

 

Anyone know what the problem is?

 

Cheers, Alex

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Hey guys,

 

Got a bit of a problem over here. I recently took apart my aps2 ex to paint it (painting went well and all looks great). The trouble is I had to take apart the trigger mechanism and now that I've put it back together (using the exploded diagram on the first page to help) it wont engage the spring.

 

In other words, i pull back the bolt (it's all upgraded internally) and normally it would click into place and you could feel that you no longer have to use too much strength to hold it back -something (piston sear?) takes the strain of the spring. Well this no longer happens. I pull back the bolt and nothing happens, when i return it to its firing position and pull the trigger nothing happens. I have taken it apart since to have a closer look with no luck.

 

It's probably an obvious mistake and it could be something to do with the springs? At worst there could be damage inside the cylinder however this is unlikely as all was fine before i took apart the rifle (leaving the cylinder in one piece) and it obviously hasn't been under stress since...

 

Anyone know what the problem is?

 

Cheers, Alex

Ah, it sounds like a problem with the...sears maybe? I'm not really sure, but that could be it.

 

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Ah, it sounds like a problem with the...sears maybe? I'm not really sure, but that could be it.

 

 

Used to do the same on mine.

 

Take off the trigger mech, there is a little sear at the front which should be standing upright to catch as the bolt is pulled back, mine occaisionally lays flat and therefore the gun dosen't cock. Also make sure you put the catch back in that you pull out the bottom to take out the cylinder (can't remember it's name)

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Also, there is this quick tip: use greenstuff on the inside of the triggersystem, to make it more rigid?

I know people here have also suggested using glue to reinforce the trigger box.

 

Unfortunately, the problem I keep hearing is that the tabs on the top of the trigger box snap off. The most important thing to do is figure out some way of replacing/reinforcing these.

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Take off the trigger mech, there is a little sear at the front which should be standing upright to catch as the bolt is pulled back, mine occaisionally lays flat and therefore the gun dosen't cock. Also make sure you put the catch back in that you pull out the bottom to take out the cylinder (can't remember it's name)

 

Cheers Nicoli,

 

This is something i thought of though, and i think i made sure that it was upright (as i assumed that it would cause this exact problem if it wasn't) the last time i put it back together...

 

so I think it's something else, having said that, I'll take it apart asap to make sure I've did put the sear back upright and I'll try again, hopefully that'll sort it. <_<

 

Cheers

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WAHAY!! Ok its all sorted now. Hopefully I wont have any more problems. It turns out it was one of the springs that sit next to the piston sear. I had placed it in the correct way but didn't realise there is a small "post" (for lack of a better word) that must stretch the spring open.

 

So there we go all fixed. :) Man that was a pain. :(

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Not sure if this is the right place for this but my Warrior mk2 L96 shoots to the left quite drastically, any ideas on what this might be or how to fix it? Thanks.

Blue

 

it should have a v-hop up, and it has to be aligned just right. So take the hop up unit apart and realign the rubber. It also helps sometimes to evenly space the barrel spacers. You can use electric tape to hold them in place when you slide the internals back into the outer barrel. I have 3 spacers in mine and that does fine.

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Thanks for the quick reply. Any guides on taking the hop up apart and what im looking to do? I have it in my hands now attached to the barrel and am a little nervous on taking it apart seeing as this is my first rifle. I need to order some spacers as mine only came with one cruddy piece of foam lol, ill do that asap, I hear 3 or so should be fine. Thanks,

Blue

 

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SO im aware that this is a rather noobish quesiton, but as i haven't owned a sniper before my maruzen type 96, im figurin this all out.

 

I have never cleaned/lubricated my gun. This is, as i see now, a big problem. It didn't really come to my attention until after i got my teflon cylender and some other internal upgrades.

 

so first of all, what needs lubrication?

 

second, what should i buy to make a standard cleaning kit?

 

and 3rd, how often do i need to clean (everything) assuming i use the rifle once or twice a week for a 2 to 3 hour stretch at a time?

 

answers to this would be much appriciated, and similarly noobish, if anyone has any refrences or advice on zeroing a scope, it would be appriciated, as my bullets fairly innacurate in accordance w/ my scope (6 inch groupings at 120ft). partially because i havent recieved my pdi hop/6.01 inner barrel (the main reason im figuring out what needs cleaning), and partially because i havent been properly maintaining my gun im sure. but all the same help appriciated!

 

-Doc

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I forgot I had already posted the greenstuff fix in this thread, but I still didnt get a answer if this would possibly reinforce it enough to use a stronger spring? Or will a stronger spring add tension to the metal latch(Tabs as you mensioned?) itself? (Just theoretically ofc).

(Sorry for the double post :D)

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